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There is a connector, in the rear under the pillion seat. It´s supposed to be on the left side under the seat "fairing". Mine was comming from the left side but for some reason it was tucked away under the middle section where the lock for the pillion seat is (does that make sense?) If you have trouble finding it, remove the plastic under seat fairing and also the "middle section" (the one that goes from left to right) and you will find it. It´s the only connector that will fit the HM ECU cable anyway... Don´t drop any screws, I did, and so the installation took me 4 times longer :-(.
Cheers!
//M
Good to know, thanks for sharing with us. What happens to the existing loom connected to the ECU? Did you just tie it off?
 

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There is a connector, in the rear under the pillion seat. It´s supposed to be on the left side under the seat "fairing". Mine was comming from the left side but for some reason it was tucked away under the middle section where the lock for the pillion seat is (does that make sense?) If you have trouble finding it, remove the plastic under seat fairing and also the "middle section" (the one that goes from left to right) and you will find it. It´s the only connector that will fit the HM ECU cable anyway... Don´t drop any screws, I did, and so the installation took me 4 times longer :-(.
Cheers!
//M
I have a 2018 RS with QS - Any idea, given that there is a QS module on the end of the linkage now, if I can use the existing linkage rod, or do I need to get a new, shorter one (from HM)? I know that HM asks to measure the existing rod between the lock nuts and subtract 55mm, but I thought you might know if the existing rod could be used in any event.
 

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I have a 2018 RS with QS - Any idea, given that there is a QS module on the end of the linkage now, if I can use the existing linkage rod, or do I need to get a new, shorter one (from HM)? I know that HM asks to measure the existing rod between the lock nuts and subtract 55mm, but I thought you might know if the existing rod could be used in any event.
I do not know about HM but I asked the same question to Rapid Bike about their auto blipper and they said if the bike has OEM rearsets the OEM rod will work fine
 

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Good to know, thanks for sharing with us. What happens to the existing loom connected to the ECU? Did you just tie it off?
Sorry don´t understand the question. But you don´t do anything to the existing loom. There is just a unconnected conector in the rear, that I just explained. The only place that you disrupt existing wireing is from the twistgrip to the throtlebody motor...
Cheers!
//M
 

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I have a 2018 RS with QS - Any idea, given that there is a QS module on the end of the linkage now, if I can use the existing linkage rod, or do I need to get a new, shorter one (from HM)? I know that HM asks to measure the existing rod between the lock nuts and subtract 55mm, but I thought you might know if the existing rod could be used in any event.
If the existing Quickshifter switch is 55mm (because the OEM one have to go, right!), then you are all set. But remember to place the HM switch at the gearbox end of the rod.
//M
 

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Sorry don´t understand the question. But you don´t do anything to the existing loom. There is just a unconnected conector in the rear, that I just explained. The only place that you disrupt existing wireing is from the twistgrip to the throtlebody motor...
Cheers!
//M
Just to be certain, the wires with the connector on the labeled ECU (the other being labeled APS) attaches to the unconnected connector in the rear?
 

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Just to be certain, the wires with the connector on the labeled ECU (the other being labeled APS) attaches to the unconnected connector in the rear?
Well, just to be clear The ECU is located on the rear side of the airbox, don´t mess with that. With the HM kit you have one cable labled ECU and that cable should connect to the unconnected cable in the rear. I guess the connector it self only fits to the one it supposed to fit..
Have you downloaded the STR 765 fitting guide from the HM website?
Good luck!
//M
 

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I installed the Rapid bike Evo with the shift assist and bluebike today.

The install was fairly easy, a couple of the plugs are very hard to find in the loom and there is not much room to fit the everything back on after the extra wiring has been added but it can be done. All in all it took me about four hours to get it all installed.

It all works pretty well, though the blipper seems to disconnect below about 4,000 revs so I have to downshift manually. At higher revs though it is very nice, the blip is just right and the shift is very smooth in both directions. I thought I could play with each gear setting individually but it seems not, I am going to contact Rapid Bike on Monday and ask about that.

The bluetooth unit is great since I can just turn the bike on and connect without having to worrying about a USB cable etc.

It is too early to expect anything from the Evo auto tune feature yet but I will keep you posted.

.
 

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I did a longer test ride today and figured out what is going on with the blipper and want to ask if anyone knows how to adjust it.

If I downshift within a second or less after rolling off the gas the blipper works great, it slips into the lower gear with no issue and blips the throttle fine. However if I roll off, start to brake and then downshift say three or four seconds after rolling off it will not engage and go into the lower gear, I have to downshift using the clutch in the normal way.

Does anyone else with the rapid bike shift assist have the same issue? Is there a fix in the software to allow a downshift longer after rolling off the gas?
 

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A quick update on the blipper problem I am having. If I downshift straight after shutting the throttle, within a second or so, it works fine, however if I leave it more than that it will not downshift. I think it is to do with the twist grip sensor because I also had a couple of occasions where I downshifted then rolled on the gas and nothing happened until I shut the throttle and opened it again. Also one time I was changing riding modes and the screen said close throttle to confirm even though it was closed and again I had to open then close the throttle again to make it work. Has anyone else had this issue? I suspect it may be the shift assist wiring because I never had issues before.
 

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Does the rapid bike evo still allow the Factory quickshifter work? Or do i have to get a rapidbike quickshifter to replace my OEM quickshifter. I would think it doesnt effect the factory blipper but just wanted to make syre
 

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Hmm that is a good question, to be honest I have no idea. Obviously it will not affect the ABS or traction control portions of the rider modes but I am not sure about throttle response or fueling. My guess is yes it will make changes to the fueling in all modes but that is just a guess.
 

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I have asked some of the vendors for insight on this question and i havent received any real answers. It might be that all modes are adjusted at the same time but i think it throws a little curve ball when you add in the different modes on top of an auto tune feature. I will keep trying to find a 100% answer from Rapid bike or another vendor
 

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Well I have the Evo installed on my bike and just looked to see what connections go into it from the loom. These are what it uses

Injectors feeding voltage
TPS
Crankshaft sensor
Gear Position sensor
O2 sensor

It does not monitor the twist grip position sensor (though the shift assist they sell seperately does) so I do not think it can in any way compensate for the throttle response settings in different riding modes. So they should remain the same.
 

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I am not sure to be honest but I suspect that is part of it, since twisting the throttle does not have a direct effect on how open the butterflies are it would seem an easy way to dull down performance a bit in the rain to just have the butterflies open less when the throttle is twisted and probably some effect on the AFR as well.
 
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