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Discussion Starter #1
I need your help! Could you please take a couple of measurements of your frame and note your model number?

Info needed:

Model code stamped on frame (first two numbers)

Outside-to-outside distance between the frame flanges that have the swingarm pivot holes

Distance from front edges of spindle holes to front edges of flanges (mine differed by 1/8")

I'm trying to determine if there is any difference in this area between the different models built, so that I can build spindle kits accordingly.

You can reply here, PM me, or e-mail at [email protected]

I really appreciate it.
 

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Hi GPZ,
Here are the measurements for my frame, a wideline Model 50/ES2 built in 1959/60 (The very last of the widelines)

Model code R13
Outside to Outside: 8 3/4"
Inside to Inside: 8 3/8"
Forward Edge of Frame Gusset to Forward Edge of Hole: 29/69" (0.45")
Spindle Dia. : 5/8"

Please note all the measurements were taken with the frame powder coated, whilst they should be accurate you may want to allow for this, for example for the Frame gusset to hole measurement, personally I would produce the spindle attach plate slightly smaller, at say the next nominal size under of 7/16".

One other thing to bear in mind is that my spindle is not tightened in the frame, there is a little play at the moment of maybe 1/16", this slack will be taken up once the swingarm spindle and upper cross tube have been tightened down.

If you need any further info please shout!

Webby
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would assume that you want the frame out-to-out spacing to stay static, and NOT be "pinched" in by the spindle as it is tightened. That seems like you would be distorting it (however slightly).

As for the edge of hole to edge of frame flange, as long as the majority of people (or everyone but me) report that the left side is equal to the right, I must assume mine was drilled slightly off at the factory.
 

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Hi GPZ,
I might fit a couple of shims in my swingarm, that would sort out the problem, as I said there's not a lot of play, although I've yet to measure it.
As for the spindle hole dimensions, I double checked mine with a set of vernier calipers and they are exactly the same. On your bike 1/8" difference is quite a lot, especially when you take into account the length of the swingarm, it would mean that to get the wheel running true to the frame, motor and front wheel you would need to mount the rear wheel slightly off center in the swingarm.
Are you going to leave it like that, or have you bolted up your spindle kit to take this into account?

Webby
 

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At present, it appears that I can adjust for the spindle location discrepancy by simply adjusting the right and left axle adjusters differently relative to each other.
That will be a bit of a PITA for the next owner! He's be adjusting his chain wondering my his rear wheel's not straight :D
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There will be no "next owner" till I'm planted six feet underground, so i'm not concerned.

Coincidentally, I just hung up with my friend who sold me the frame (well, we traded for it); his other featherbed frame, an Atlas (mod. 20) is also out by about 1/16".

He's already got his complete hopped up engine, he's working on his wheels and looking for a decent gas tank.

The next spindle kit I finish will be his, as are the other set of conversion plates.
 

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It doesn't surprise me!
When I fitted my battery carrier I had to mount it slightly angled by maybe one or two degrees to make it look right, these old frames are definitely not precision engineered!
 
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