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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone installed a set of ASV levers on the 765 R (not RS, assuming they are different) yet? Which part numbers fit?

ASV can't confirm fitment yet and asked for photos of the stock levers to try to help, but my bike is in storage for the winter.

Any other suggestions are welcome. I know there is that french company on ebay and it looks like evotech has some, too, but I'd prefer the ASVs.
 

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Hi, the levers for the 765 R & RS are different, Triumph's own replacement levers for the 765 R (PN. A2021447) are also listed to fit the Thruxton 1200 R, SPEED Triple S & R 1050 (2016 on) in the fitting instructions here.

So, hopefully any levers listed for the above bikes should be interchangeable.

On this basis, I've ordered these form eBay, the quality looks good and the price is brilliant. They should be arriving from China soon, I'll post back confirmation when they've been fitted :smile2:
 

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Jannerman....do you have the 765 R? If so, and those ebay levers are as depicted in the photos, they aren't going to work for your bike. The brake lever needs the brembo "pin" actuator that is not present on those ebay levers (unless the pictures are just wrong of the actual product).

Just wanting to warn you....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Now I'm confused. This post says for the 765 RS, use the Speed Triple R models BRC550 and CRC541. It also says the 765 R is different.

http://www.triumphrat.net/street-triple-forum/897273-street-triple-parts-compatibility-2.html#post2003480457

Janner is right that the instructions for the Triumph replacement for the R suggests its the same as the Speed Triple R, which would suggest that the 765 R also uses BRC550 and CRC541.

If the 765 R is different, how so? Are both the clutch and the brake different, or just the brake?
 

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Wish I could tell you definitively about all the models, but what I can say from experience is that the brake side lever HAS to have the brembo caliper actuating pin (it's a physical pin extension from the body of the brake lever) to actuate the R and the RS braking systems. I actually am fairly certain the R and RS clutch levers are identical (based on my back and forth with some RS folks this past January). The brake levers, I think, are different - but both of them have the Brembo actuating pin. If you look at the French AVDB-moto pictures of the 765 R levers, you'll see that silver, substantial pin in the photos. Without that, the brake lever just won't work.

Of course, it could be the case that the ebay seller of those that Jannerman ordered is just posting a stock photo of a generic lever....that's always a possibility.
 

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Thanks @vincenzajay, I'll look out for that, not sure why I'd been thinking that it would be the clutch lever was different but I now see that it would be much more likely to be the brake lever that changes.

I've gotta hope that it is just a generic picture in the eBay listing, anyway, I'll post back with my findings when I receive them.

I was trying to avoid spending very much on them as they're quite damage prone parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I received a CRC541 from Amazon but it was stamped CR411 and did not look like it fit. There was a tab that could be screwed on to engage the clutch sensor, and it did fit up, but I didn't push it any further given the inexplicable model # discrepancy. This was after I emailed ASV and they basically said they don't know what model will work with the 2018 Triple R but if I send in pics they could "tell me."

From reading other threads (e.g. re: when the new speed triple arrived) ASV has a history of nonchalantly dealing with model updates and apparently often keeps the same model # even though they make material changes, and respond slowly to fitment issues only as raised by customers. I.e., never proactively checking fitment. So if you end up with an older version, you're out of luck. I wanted to go ASV because of their reputation for quality and because they are made in the USA, but I don't want to award this lack of attention to detail. It shouldn't be this hard to get confirmation re: levers from a lever company.
 

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Well, the cheap Chinese levers I ordered on eBay for my 765R came today, they cost just over £15 (about $21) and I'm very pleased with them ��

They were stated as being for the 2016 SPEED Triple R & S models, fortunately the picture in the listing (that looked to be wrong) was a generic one.
The fit and finish is first class, for the clutch lever you need to re-use the existing pivot bush and for the brake lever you do need to re-use the "Brembo pin" as @vicenzajay said.

The leavers and adjusters appear to be standard parts but the business end (the black parts in the photos below) are the bits that are specific to a particular make and model.

On mine, the clutch part is marked "T333P" and the brake is "F11" if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That's great to hear. Those look good, and you certainly can't beat the price!!! I finally heard back from ASV after sending some pics. They say the CRC541 (clutch) and the BRC550 (brake) will work. The equivalent model numbers for the F3 line will fit, too. That's the same as the Thruxton R/16+ Speedy.

I've got both now. The BRC550 comes with the Brembo pin and bushings and adapters for the brake light switch, so it looks like it is good to go. I plan to install this weekend and will update with pics.

FYI: The ASV levers go on sale on Amazon from time to time, especially in off colors. I was able to snag the black clutch for ~$50 and the brake for $113, so not bad overall, but certainly not ebay prices. Also, for those looking for chinese levers, Aliexpress has almost everything on ebay available directly, may or may not be cheaper.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Confirmed: The CRC541 and BRC550 fit. The clutch switch tab was binding initially, but turned out I had overtightened the lock nut, shifting the lever. Not sure I like how little clearance there is there, but shouldn't be a real problem.
 

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I just installed the same clutch lever: ASV CRC541-K - not sure if you need the - K but that's what it says on mine (C/5 Sport Series Standard Black).

First of all the lever itself is lovely, beautifully made, with a red adjuster dial that works well on my red-accented 765 R. However I have to disagree with the advice above, which says the clutch switch tab is binding because the lock nut is overtightened. That's simply not the case - I experimented with this quite a bit, and it binds because it's too long/wide - it does so even when the lock nut isn't on. In any case I can't see how tightening the lock nut would 'shift' the lever, the only thing over-tightening the lock nut can do is binding the lever full stop (because you're taking away the play it needs to rotate).

I also looked at this explanation, which also makes the 'overtightening' argument (same author?): https://www.motojaunt.com/how-tos/install-asv-levers-2018-street-triple-r

So the correct advice is to simply take an iron file to the thin end of the switch tab (which can indeed only be mounted one way, as per the URL above), until it stops catching the perch. It doesn't take much, and you do need this thin part (which you are filing at) that sticks out to be able to press the clutch switch tab, so take it in steps (a little bit, mount it on, try it, take it off again, etc.).
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Yes, same author! It's been a bit since I did this, but IIRC the over tightening changed or limited the vertical movement of the lever in the perch, causing contact for me. On mine, I could actually tighten to the point it bound w the tab, then loosen back and it would work.


Now, yours is probably better advice esp if people are having trouble. I'll add a note to my page. All I can say is: I didn't need to file anything (maybe I got lucky and it just wore down while troubleshooting?)

Also, when I was looking into it there were people complaining about tab issues with the Speedy.ASV changes the tabs on their levers without changing model numbers. So as compatibility issues arise, they might make a modification to the tab setup, and we wouldn't know. And I'm also not 100% how close to spec they make the tabs, its possible we ended up with two, slightly different sized tabs, yours needing filing and mine not.

While I agree they are well made, they are poorly designed/marketed with respect to particular applications. It seems ASV just wants to see if something fits in the wild, even if there are small issues like here, rather than seek out bikes and measuring/designing/testing.

(FYI: the K just signifies black levers. G for gold, S for silver and an extra S to any of them for shorty.)

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

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In that case definitely my thanks for the page with the explanations (as well as the parts numbers), which was tremendously useful and the thing that made me make the jump and buy these levers. Just did my first ride with them and I love them. Perhaps my message above was a little too focused on the 'negative' but it was more in response to the earlier message about the switch tab binding.

As for the change I made, I didn't have to file off a tremendous amount, so depending on tolerances (both on the perch as well as tab) as well as the 'grinding down' effect you'd get by just installing the tab, it's definitely possible that yours worked without modification. We're talking millimeters here. But if you look at the original tab, it clears by quite a bit, so the easiest/safest way (which literally took me all of 30 seconds with a pair of plyers and the first random iron file I could find) is to file some of the end of the tab off.
 

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guys, how are these levers better than stock (except for the looks)? I have some issues with long travel of the brake lever, but I do not know if installing these will change anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
guys, how are these levers better than stock (except for the looks)? I have some issues with long travel of the brake lever, but I do not know if installing these will change anything.
Primarily looks.

Secondarily: reduces reach of lever & it uses a microadjuster so you can dial in the perfect distance. Other levers have only 4-6 preset distances.

Technically it doesn't affect needed travel, although it can reduce max travel if that makes sense. The levers will still need to move enough to disengage the clutch and engage the master cylinder. These distances are dictated by the clutch and MC, not the lever. In fact, if you dial the levers in too close and reduce available travel too much, you may not fully engage the brakes. I also found that dialing in the clutch too close prevented the clutch switch from disengaging (though the switch could be modified if necessary.)

I'll try to take a picture of the shortest reach I was able to set.

Finally, they are marketed as "unbreakable" as they are made to pivot out in a crash.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

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Looks is a big thing (they simply look like they belong, set off against the black handlebar and my black Rizoma bar ends), but the first reason I bought them is their adjustability. To be more specific, you get a rotating dial that slides out a pin in a continuous way (imagine you were winding a bolt into its thread).

As graniterid3r wrote, there are limits to this of course, but I still found I could bring my clutch lever just that little closer, while it still fully engages and disengages as it should. In the process of switching the lever, I also adjusted the free clutch play to a 'best practice' couple mm at the perch (you should be able to slide a coin into the gap that frees before the clutch starts engaging). If you leave too much free play, then bringing the clutch lever closer won't work as you'll struggle to fully engage.

On the brake side, I had less of an issue to begin with, as the brake lever starts up 'soft' and then firms up (contrary to the clutch which requires the same pressure from the moment it engages throughout). In fact, you'd want your brake lever quite far (further) away, so that your fingers can really apply force as it comes in and the pressure starts to build. You can't apply force if the lever is not under your fingertips, if that makes sense (try 'squeezing' something while holding it past the flex point of your fingertips - much more difficult).

But of course only doing the clutch and not the brake would have looked pretty odd :).

I did consider getting a shorty lever for the brake, and may still do so as my riding technique improves.
 

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Having now used these on a few 1h+ rides, two more things I noticed.

On the plus side, their more 'squared off' design compared to the original round levers makes them nicer and easier to grab. Your fingers quite naturally get a better grip on them.

I've also found a disadvantage though, which is that my clutch grip has now become quite vibey. I guess the combination of switching out the stock (R) mirrors for Rizoma bar-ends (didn't change much but ever so slightly more vibration) had put me on the 'edge' of where the harmonics start playing up, and as these ASV levers are obviously lighter than the stock items, I've now pushed it into a zone where if I drive the bike with some revs for a few minutes, my hand starts going numb. Oddly enough the throttle grip is fine (not vibe-free but definitely not numbing).

I guess I'll play around with my RAM grip which is mounted on the left hand-side, see if taking that (and my phone) away improves things. If it makes it worse, then I know I probably need more rather than less weight and will try and weigh up the bar-ends (they are hollow so should be able to get some lead in there).

Anyway, YMMV...
 

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So I've been searching to try to find shorty levers for my Street Triple R. Came across this thread and about to order the CRC541 and BRC550. I should be good with these for sure? Was a little concerned that the clutch doesn't seem to exactly fit bc of the binding issue described here. I originally ordered the Triumph shorty levers but found out they do not fit the 765 Street triples after talking with Triumph technical support. I asked him about other options but he said there were none and that the aftermarket levers cause issues bc of all the electronics in the new 765 and that the clutch levers don't work properly. Not sure if he was referring to the ASV levers. Any thoughts? Thanks a lot!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So I've been searching to try to find shorty levers for my Street Triple R. Came across this thread and about to order the CRC541 and BRC550. I should be good with these for sure? Was a little concerned that the clutch doesn't seem to exactly fit bc of the binding issue described here. I originally ordered the Triumph shorty levers but found out they do not fit the 765 Street triples after talking with Triumph technical support. I asked him about other options but he said there were none and that the aftermarket levers cause issues bc of all the electronics in the new 765 and that the clutch levers don't work properly. Not sure if he was referring to the ASV levers. Any thoughts? Thanks a lot!
I'm running those levers fine. No issues. You may need to shave down the tab, but it isn't a big deal.

What the tech said makes absolutely no sense. There are no electronics involved, these are just levers. Now, he may be referring to the fact that some people run clutch levers without the starter safety switch tab and you apparently can't do that any more because the ECU uses that switch as part of it's fuelling determinations....

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