Need a little more info....the male will always disconnect from the female or vise versa on connectors...sometimes I have a heck of a time figuring out what releases them, though. Pulling individual pins out is a little more standard...you can use a small jewelers screwdriver to release the catch inside the connector and pull the individual pin and wire out--I have done this on a couple on the bonnie to connect wires to in order to power my Starcom1 and something else--can't remember what just now. The biggest problem I have with the individual pins is determining which end to go in with the jewelers screwdriver to release the pin--it is usually the opposite end from the one the wire goes in, but not always.
I removed each pin from this same AMP connector using a very thin tapered metal scribe to reach in and push down on the barb while pulling gently on the wire. As mentioned, a tiny screwdriver would also do the trick. On this connector, you need to reach in from the connection end (opposite the wires) to release the barbs. I did it in the sun so there would be enough light to see in there. Anything thin and pointy enough to reach in there should work, in a pinch.
Thanks merlin - I sent a bunch of them to Brent, and they should be available from NewBonneville.com soon. He may already be done anodizing them - send him an email. I just machine as a hobby, self-taught on an old Bridgeport at work. I made the one on my bike manually, but the ones for sale were CNC machined, and they have an additional little chamfer on all the edges of the outer surface of the cover.
BTW - I was working on the wiring on my instruments, which use a similar AMP connector, again tonight, and removed the pins again. You really need something very small to get under the plastic barbs that hold the pins, and lightly pry them up while pulling the wire out the back of the connector.
Anyway, got the pins out with a jeweler's screwdriver (very easy once you have a rough idea what needs to be done). <- haha
I know no one slept last night wondering how I was getting along so...
Tach is mounted and working. Nothing caught on fire. Yay.
Wired the tach using a mix of the two methods mentioned in the Rat Wiki:
Disconnected red tach lead and joined to (green) tach wire with a quick-connect
Soldered the remaining wire to the pins in the infamous plug.
Red+blue tach wire to red/blue wire in plug
Black to Black and silver on plug.
Wondering if I should seal the hole drilled for the tach mounting bolt...
[ This message was edited by: Nathan on 2007-03-09 07:28 ]
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