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Discussion Starter · #1 ·


Lifted the little "retaining bar" jimmy-janks, but can't slide out the connector. Special tool? :hammer: Can't be done? What?!

Thanks! :)
 

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Need a little more info....the male will always disconnect from the female or vise versa on connectors...sometimes I have a heck of a time figuring out what releases them, though. Pulling individual pins out is a little more standard...you can use a small jewelers screwdriver to release the catch inside the connector and pull the individual pin and wire out--I have done this on a couple on the bonnie to connect wires to in order to power my Starcom1 and something else--can't remember what just now. The biggest problem I have with the individual pins is determining which end to go in with the jewelers screwdriver to release the pin--it is usually the opposite end from the one the wire goes in, but not always.

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That was fast! Thanks Red.

I'm trying to remove the individual wires/pins to tie in a tach. Go in the front end with a jeweler's screwdriver, ay? I'll give it a go!

~N
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That may be a worthwhile investment. Should I ask for a "pin-remover-thingy" or the more technical "unclippermabob"?

If I can't get it out easily, I'm thinking t-taps may work in this instance. For reasons that elude rational thought, I'd love to avoid the old cut-and-solder.


/headlight guts still splayed out on my front fender.

~N

[ This message was edited by: Nathan on 2007-03-08 12:42 ]
 

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It's a tool for removing the connectors in older serial/parallel connectors (9 and 25pin ones).

I had one back when we had to make console cables for network equipment. It's about 3 inches long red and white with 2 copper colored small sleeves.

Hopefully that description will help the Radio Shack clerk locate it.
 

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I removed each pin from this same AMP connector using a very thin tapered metal scribe to reach in and push down on the barb while pulling gently on the wire. As mentioned, a tiny screwdriver would also do the trick. On this connector, you need to reach in from the connection end (opposite the wires) to release the barbs. I did it in the sun so there would be enough light to see in there. Anything thin and pointy enough to reach in there should work, in a pinch.
 

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Just cut and splice about a inch back from the conector.You can get the double adapter pins from any auto electrician.
:hammer:
 

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JG - WHOA Man!! that's the nicest sprocket cover I've ever seen. I don't know you, but from your album I presume you area machinist? Gosh, you selling those things?!?!
 

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Thanks merlin - I sent a bunch of them to Brent, and they should be available from NewBonneville.com soon. He may already be done anodizing them - send him an email. I just machine as a hobby, self-taught on an old Bridgeport at work. I made the one on my bike manually, but the ones for sale were CNC machined, and they have an additional little chamfer on all the edges of the outer surface of the cover.

BTW - I was working on the wiring on my instruments, which use a similar AMP connector, again tonight, and removed the pins again. You really need something very small to get under the plastic barbs that hold the pins, and lightly pry them up while pulling the wire out the back of the connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey! hey! It's ME time. No sprocket talk.

Anyway, got the pins out with a jeweler's screwdriver (very easy once you have a rough idea what needs to be done). <- haha

I know no one slept last night wondering how I was getting along so...

Tach is mounted and working. Nothing caught on fire. Yay.

Wired the tach using a mix of the two methods mentioned in the Rat Wiki:

Disconnected red tach lead and joined to (green) tach wire with a quick-connect
Soldered the remaining wire to the pins in the infamous plug.
Red+blue tach wire to red/blue wire in plug
Black to Black and silver on plug.

Wondering if I should seal the hole drilled for the tach mounting bolt...

Fender bobbing!

[ This message was edited by: Nathan on 2007-03-09 07:28 ]
 

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but...did you order the sprocket cover. :???: :-D

Larry
 

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Hey JG

Dunno if it's your field or not but how about fabricating a lower side stand for a T100, lots of folks doing the lowering thing. I'm sure it's marketable. I'd buy it for starters.

Jon (UK)
 
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