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1975 T160 Trident
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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone in our community replaced the immobilizer, part no. T2504061, and it fixed the "won't start" problem? I purchased a '19 Street Twin that was laid down and scratched up. It came with a funky key, not the original. Everything turned on, except the fuel pump, and the little red immobilizer light is on the speedo.

After rebuilding it, with the help of folks on this forum, I took it to my local dealer who cut a chipped key from the one I had. He hooked up his OBD tool to sync the new key to the bike, and it didn't work. This was at the end of the day, and he said this will take a little more "looking into".

I've read enough posts here to think the immobilizer might be at fault, but I know anything is possible. A new one is more than $1,000.00. I've seen immobilizers on fleabay with the same part number going for as low as $50.00. The same part number T2504061 seems to appear on several models, over several years, too.

Can anyone share with me their experiences with this issue? I want to see if there is any good news out there.

Thanks much,
 

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Did the bike have an alarm originally? If its been unplugged it will need a blanking plug installing which links a couple of the terminals out, the alarm connector plug is on the left hand side behind the plastic cover where the seat is.

My alarm that I had fitted with the bike fried itself over winter cos I didn't keep it charged so the battery in the datatool burst and messed up the pcb, I unplugged it and everything came on but the bike wouldn't turn over.

Managed to find online which pins needed shorting out so I just cut the alarm off, taped up the cores which weren't needed and crudely twisted and taped the ones which needed coupling and hey presto the bike started.

If it turns out that this is the problem on yours then let me know as I can have a look at mine to tell you which cores need coupling but might have to PM me as the info shouldn't really be openly available as it can aid in the disablement of an alarm and potentially give thieves a hand so I wouldn't feel comfortable posting it.
 

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Is this a stolen/recovered bike then?
If so have they damaged any wiring around the ignition switch or the antenna?
Is it showing any codes, such as unmatched immobiliser or CAN faults, although the dealer should have spotted these.
Have you been back in touch to see what more "looking into" it needs?
If you have to buy a replacement immobiliser the dealer will have to pair it with your keys and ECM but I wouldn't jump the gun unless it was showing a code.
 

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1975 T160 Trident
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Discussion Starter #4
Hi CafRacer,

No, the bike was not stolen, and the damage was not too severe. I traced all of the wiring to confirm everything was plugged in and not damaged. I could not find anything, but could be something I missed. I stepped through the codes on the speedo, and here is what I found:

Code 1521 - No signal to ABS Modulator.
Code 1650 - CAN-BUS network com fault with immobilizer ECM.

I'm unsure what they mean, or if either one would disable the bike. The shop was going to look at it further this week, so I'll share what news he gives me. Do you think the OBD system would report where the fault would lie?

Thank you,
 

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Assumed it was stolen because of the "funky" key, is it crash damaged then?
Those codes will disable the bike, but because they relate to separate modules (ABS & immobiliser) its unlikely the modules themselves will be the cause.
Much more likely to be a wiring fault on the CAN-BUS between the ECM and those modules, or a loss of power.
Have you checked for loose connectors and blown fuses (especially 5 & 7).
Not sure their software would give them any more specific information, the fault finding in the manual for these codes is basically checking the (CAN-BUS) wiring between the modules for shorts & continuity and checking the fuses.
 

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1975 T160 Trident
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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, the bike was damaged. Front wheel, front forks, left mirror. I checked all the fuses and are OK. I checked the wiring in the headlight bucket and everything was connected. I unplugged several of them including the ignition switch and controls to check for backed-out pins, etc., and re-attached them. Unplugged the speedo and reconnected it.

Excuse my electrical ignorance, but what exactly is the CAN-BUS wiring? Also too, are you thinking perhaps during the accident a connector may have been yanked and disconnected?

Thanks for the help,
 

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Its basically a 2 wire serial communication bus that links the ECM with other devices on a network, on our bikes this includes the ECM, immobiliser, instruments, ABS, diagnostic plug & Bluetooth module. It simplifies the wiring and allows data & commands to be sent just over 2 wires, rather than having multiple signal wires from each device.
There is a DTC for a general CAN fault but in your case its looks like the ECM is not getting the correct response back from the immobiliser and the ABS modulator so I would double check the connectors at these two locations, the immobiliser especially being mounted behind the headstock and it having front end damage.
 
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1975 T160 Trident
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Discussion Starter #8
Good to know, and thank you for that great explanation of what a CAN-BUS is. So if I understand correctly, there is a higher likelihood of a connection be dis-connected, instead of something like the immobilizer unit itself being damaged? I will talk to the service technician that has my bike now and tell him about that. Out of curiosity, are there two distinct wires that make up that CAN-BUS system? Sounds like I should carefully go over every connection and be sure they are solid and there are now broken wires?

Thanks again, CafRacer.
 

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The CAN-BUS wires are Red & Blue on my bike, can't say for sure on yours, hopefully its the same, pins 1 & 6 on the immobiliser module connector.
In my opinion a wiring problem is more likely because its reporting faults from two modules and its very unlikely they are both faulty, also because of the bike history.
Is it salvage, make sure they haven't robbed any parts off the bike.
This should all be meat and drink to a Triumph tech though.
 
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In addition to the can-bus wires, there is usually terminating resistors in the harness and in each smart device. I dont fully understand there use, but I've had to verify them in few procedures I've had to do at work.
You would need the service manuel to get the resistance its supposed to be and how to test, if Triumph uses them.
Sometimes just unplugging and reconnecting the module fixes it. Fresh scratches on the terminals does it.
A little more fyi.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The bike is not salvage, just an out-of-state title. So no issues, and I was surprised it was available. I'll check into all those good suggestions and see if I can get her back to life.

Thank you,
 
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