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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have to strip my wheels down for powdercoating and the bearings don't budge. Any tips or tricks you guys can help me with ? Would like to save the bearings but they look like a standard bearing number? Puller recommendation?
Thanks for any help.
 

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I had my dealer do it. It was if i recall $20 to remove and instal new ones. And yes, they are generic. I drove an hour to my dealer after being told they had the bearings in stock. They were wrong, i was pissed ! Anyways, they knew of a small bearing shop down the road and i drove there and got a pair at exactly 1/2 the cost of the triumphs. can't help you with pulling them yourself other than to say don't even bother trying w/o a puller, and i sadly have no advice for you there either.
 

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I pulled my wheel bearings on the highway- I can't remember how it went, I will let you know when I come out of my coma and finish re hab- hardy har har! :(
 

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There is a snap ring on the rotor side of the rear wheel and the hub side of the front wheel. I haven't removed mine yet but I would start by taking out the snap ring then knocking out that bearing from the opposite side using a long drift down through the hub. Knock it out in a triangular pattern as to remove it evenly and not to distort the hub. Be careful the drift doesn't damage the wall of the hub and keep it right on the edge of the bearing before you tap it with the hammer.

After you have that bearing out you should be able to remove the crush sleeve / spacer from inside the hub and knock out the other bearing in the same manner. You will probably damage the seals in the process. I always by new seals if I remove them in just about every application.

The bearings should be pretty cheap from a bearing shop and there is always the possibility you ruined them as well so just replace them and you wont have to worry about it down the road. I hope you give it a try, it's usually not that hard to do.
 

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I've knocked out a lot of bearings on my other vehicles but not the Triumph. If you do try this yourself, as Bryan says, use little but solid taps gradually working around the perimeter of the bearing. Be prepared to take a while, it may look like you're not making progress but just take it slow, lots of deep breaths (and maybe a beer or two.)
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the suggestions guys, that is how the the haynes manual says too. However, the sleeve between the brgings won't move so you can't get a drift on anything. I am going to take the $ I saved getting the seals out intact and rent a interior wheel brg kit remover I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Rwright, thanks for the article. I don't have a welder but the expansion bolt in the brg hole to beat on from the other side gives me an idea. Danger - stand back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well my friends, my homemade tool worked like a charm. Once you get the first one and the spacer falls out, the second one is a piece of cake.
Cost = 0 $ and 1 thumb ding
 

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I get thumb dings turning a screw driver so sounds like you did good. What did you come up with?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I turned the spacer into the drift by making a expansion plug in the spacer. Then put a long extention on socket on plug nut and pounded it . I made the expansion plug from a 4" pc of rubber hose (might be off my dishwasher), a couple bolts and washers that fit loosely into the bearing hole size (need front and rear sizes)
You cut the pipe in half, cut the side out of one pc and push it tight into the other piece. Push the bolt ( think I used a 5/16 for front and 3/8 for rear) thru, add flatwasher, nut and wrench it up in the spacer with a socket inside the spacer as tight as you can (don't break it) and pound away.
 
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