Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Want to change the rear caliper on my ST 1050 (2006) - changed brake pads recently and for the life of me can't figure out why they are binding so much to the rear rotor?

Just wondered if anyone knew of any 'equivalent' rear calipers out there that would be worth a look?

I'm in the UK.

Cheers,
GrahamG
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24,231 Posts
Under warranty?

Is your bike still under warranty GRG-Sprint1050?

If so get the dealer to sort it, in fact I would be doing that even if it was out of warranty, something is wrong.

I have 60,000+kms on my '04 955 Sprint ST no rear brake issues and you have the same brakes as I do as far as I know.

cheers,
DaveM:cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Before you condenm the caliper go back through your pad installation. Pull the new pads and check to see if they are the same size[other than thickness] as the old pads Sometimes the backing plates are a bit wider than the originals and can cause the pad to cock and bind in the caliper body. Also check the vent in the mastercyl. cap if clogged it can allow expanding brake fluid to apply the brakes when the fluid gets hot. A thorough fluid flush and bleed would likely help too.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,389 Posts
I agree with both. Something is not quite right and I very much doubt that the caliper is your problem.

It worked before you changed things, now it isn't working. So it's one of two things.

1. Wrong parts
2. Improper re installation.

My recommendations would be to fish the old parts out and see if they are a match to the new ones, (you did that anyway right?) then either revisit your installation procedures or take it to a dealer and let them sort it out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,977 Posts
Hazy Memory

Hi,

not too clear on the details, but I recall a couple of threads on this forum, with members complaining of something similar where it turned out they were riding the rear brake pedal, even though they swore they didn't use it.

You might want to go out with a mate and get them to check. It doesn't much pressure just to get them binding rather than braking!

Rexx
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input guys. I intend doing all today.

(1) Definitely not riding the brake pedal - so that is not the cause;

(2) Last time I changed the rear pads, I used the OEM (Nissin) pads. This time around I used EBC Organics. Funny but I kind of thought they looked chunkier than the OEMs in terms of thickness. Also, curious to know why the EBC's didn't have any wear indicators?

(3) I did think that if these pads were 'thicker' perhaps the fluid had backed up further into the resovoir (spelling?), so maybe I need to bleed a bit of this off?

(4) I was just thinking about the rubbers where the caliper slides onto the bracket (the slider bit). I'm just wondering if I've greased those arms a bit too much so its creating suction rather than lubrication?

(5) I've done this a couple of times in the past with no problems - maybe I just need to look a little wider than the caliper and take a look at the fluid.

(6) Pistons are spotless as last year I took the rear caliper apart and gave everything a good clean, pistons, seals and the caliper.

(7) I'll check everything again, my suspicions are (i) I've overlubed the arms that the caliper sits on; or (ii) I need to check the fluid level if the pad thickness is greater.

LAST QUESTION:

Do the 'rubbers' where the caliper joins the sliding part of the bracket need to be replaced periodically? As it is these rubbers that are releasing the pad pressure I just wondered if they ever loose that pushing ability? Also, EBC organic rear pads - should there be wear indicators in there?

CLOSING:
Many thanks for the information pointers - I'm not slagging off the OEM brakes, it's just frustration caused by sorting out a seized eccentric adjuster by taking everything out of the swing arm at the back. And then to boot, I decided to change the brake pads at the same time.

I love the bike 100%. It's out of warranty so I'm doing all my own maintenance and having done the rear pads before I'm just frustrated as to why they are binding this time.

Many thanks guys.

Graham
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
wdietz186 and dolson:

Followed your advice about checking what came off versus what went on.

Turned out that the new pads were slightly thicker than the old ones when they were originally put on. I recall last time I changed the rear pads I did fill the rear brake resovoir a little too full (right up to the max line). Seemed alright at the time, so didn't bleed anything off. But I reckon these new pads just tightened things up a little too far.

Anyhow, bled the brake, and made sure the level in the resovoir was no more than half-way between lower and upper. Cleaned off any excess grease and now everything works fine now. Brake works, but doesn't bind. :)

Many thanks.
Graham
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Graham, I can't spell resivoir either glad I'm not alone. One of these days I'll look it up. Glad you fixed your problem.Most of the time when something isn't right after I've worked on it I've overlooked somthing basic. <[like spelling]. I get kinda paranoid about the vent in that thing I can't spell due to a 100+mph event off track while racing. Taping caps on is a no-no.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top