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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
If already addressed, I apologize and would appreciate any links to relavent threads. Search was not very rewarding or specific.

If our TB platforms are already somewhere in the general 75hp+/- range, is there a quick and dirty upgrade path to the 100hp mark... or even beyond? Given both of my particular TBs are stock and Mikuni fed, what is the progressive build order without any overlap or waste in the process. For example, a K&N panel filter is a always a first step but why waste the money if the entire airbox has no future.

What are the key elements? As usual, better/bigger carbs, cam grinds, dynamic ignition timing, exhaust design?

>Update to the later model Keihin carbs or straight to FCR flatsides
>'Red' cams (go big or go home huh)
>IgniTech ECU with a custom map from IRLmike for a 'hot 900 triple'.
>Cut and burn some Triumph 3>1 pipe to fit like many here have already successfully done

What is the alternative? Swap in a 955 or a 1050? Perhaps that too is another thread that I just don't see get much play around here so there must be a reason.
 

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The Sport/Touring T3s, stock at 98hp, go over 100hp, 105 to 110?, with pods/rejet/free flow exhausts, with their stock 'green' cams.

The only difference, besides cams, in engine internals, is 10.6:1 vs 10:1 compression ratio.

95+ is possible fitting green cams, intake and ex mods, with raised rev limit & revised advance curve.

Here you go, found it....train5's dyno results...91.8 at the wheel, must be 100+ at the crank....

http://www.triumphrat.net/hinckley-classic-triples/223487-dyno-update-with-tps.html

Oh, and it's not with pods, but a 'swiss cheese' airbox + K&N filter
 

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My TBS has the following changes:

- T509 Cams (T595 Daytona cams will fit as well)
- 2nd hole (right) in the airbox - 2 airintake rubbers fitted (from 885i Tiger)
- K N filter
- removed crankcase ventilation pipe - separate filter added
- Daytona 750 (T300) ECU - earlier ignitition and higher revs
- Ignition pick up w/ long holes to adjust (early) ignition timing
- adjusted Keihins (mainjet 118, needle 0,8mm higher)
- 3-1 exhaust (down pipes will be changed again to a (adjusted) Speed Triple 1050 as I belive it will improve the performance further)

Result:

- 101,2 Hp at 9.139 rpm
- 86,5 Nm at 8.148 rpm

Expenses spend:

- Cams 120€
- ECU 100€
- K N filter 60€
- crankcase ventilation filter 40€
- 3-1 exhaust w/ down pipes 400€

Plus some hours and and a couple of beers at a friends workshop ;-)
 

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Hey tiefflieger, Polo on Venloer Straße have 50-55mm pods for €10 each if you're thinking of going for pods. I believe the Keihin mouth (Venturi) is 54mm diameter so they should fit well.

 

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Not such a good idea.
I've fitted the pots allready, but they dont allow the engine to breath in the right way. While the K&N pots allow a higher airflow than the Std airbox, these will reduce the airflow.
Last but not least - absolut no chance to pass the TÜV!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
So, in real quick summary, the approx 20hp difference between my classic T3 and the Sport T3 is largely the 'green' cam (8.90, 251/256) and some more headroom from their ECU to reach it?

Kinda looks like the terminal point for the classic T3 Stage I is:
> A K&N filter panel holder only style airbox
> A hand full of jets
> Unrestricted carb rubbers (as required)
> TORS or smooth bore exhaust
> Live at redline! :cool:

Without cracking the case, it seems to take a full Stage II to even get invited to the 100hp club. :p
> 'Green' (T509) cams... or better
> T3 Sport ECU... or better
> Set of 3/1 pipes

If stock is somewhere in the 70's, a Stage I should be somehere in the 80's and a Stage II square in the 90's it appears. Just add a programmable ECU to cross the finish line?
 
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