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94 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Here's the work process

Land vehicle Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive lighting Hood

Tape line across tank, to ensure to satin areas have a smooth flow.

Automotive lighting Hood Grille Motor vehicle Vehicle

Tape out areas. 1/8" tape. Never used it before. Lovely to work with. Did corners pressing and turning same time. Maybe an hour to do rubbing to good finish, time was getting up close to tape.

Fuel tank Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire

Tape removed. Edges not 100% crisp, but looks good.

Tire Vehicle Fuel tank Motor vehicle Automotive tire

Application of ACF50 slightly darked, which I expected. Improves contrast.

145 Posts
View attachment 787491

The aluminium tank on the bike I'm assembling looks really good as-is. I've had it quite a while, doesn't loose shine. Would be easy to maintain/polish.

But, for this project, is too dominant, too shiny, it makes cylinder head and other castings seem a bit dull. Don't want to take engine apart to vapour blast, as it's low mileage and clean.

Today I 'polished' the stainless steel front mudguard with scotchbrite. So, lost its shiny surface finish, has now a sort of deeper shine. Looks really good.

I want to do the tank too, now. Also would have an advantage of hiding any tiny scratches.

There's the obvious difference in metals. After finishing the mudguard, I cleaned finger prints off with meths. Can't see I'll ever have any problems with the finish.

Might a satin-finish aluminium corrode (atmosphere, it won't be left outside, or ridden in the wet). I won't clear coat it.

Can a brushed aluminium surface be tidied with something like used on crankcase covers, but to clean and even up, not make a mirror-finish?

Aluminium is obviously softer. Would the scotchbrite flap wheel be okay? Not too abrasive?

Will I regret it? 😯

Whether you regret it or not is a subjective call. As for wanting a mirror aluminum finish, one thing to consider is a "wrap."

A few years ago Justin Beiber wanted to be inconspicuous so he had his car done in a chrome wrap.

Something to consider.

43 Posts
my 2cents

1. Don't use plati dip. It never lasts, results ends up looking bad & gas will eat right thru it i'd think. i have limited experience with it, but i've never had 'good' results. You can always test it , it's cheap enough , but i wouldnt even bother.

2. if you do want to change the sheen. red / green scotch bright (dont use a DA) & a 2k mat clear. You can have your local paint supply shop order you a pop can. it's about $30 bucks in the states. That's what we do to keep the patina on cars n' bikes. 2k is gas & oil resistant, but you have to pop the mix so it has a short life in the can 3~4 days max. So plan accordingly.

testing on a scrap aluminum pc is a good idea. i want to see how it turns out!

honestly . i really like what oldgoldie put up. this is wicked

White Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design
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