There's always the 'bar snake' avenue as well ... it's a thing-a-ma-jig that slides INTO the bar and isn't visible from the outside like bar end weights ... I haven't tried one but have considered it ...
Some handle bars are simply hollow tubing while others have full size shafts fitted inside the handlebar grip area. You can add these as they do help. Also, have you tried rehabbing your handlebar bracket mounts first. There are rubber washers, cups and and spacers fitted into the top yoke meant to deaden vibration. If these are in good shape and you still have excessive vibration, you may also want to track down the cause.
Hi Tiger Dale
What I have done before and it worked a treat, is shape piece of wood which will knock down inside your bars about two inches place a washer on top of the wood and fill with molten lead. Be careful when using the lead as it can spit back at you.
What all these devices and solutions do are two things. First it detunes the bars from having a natural frequency that might conicide with a frequency (RPM) created by the engine, and by adding weight towards the end, dampens them from wanting to vibrate.
I've thought about trying the molten lead slug in the ends, but sold the bike that had a bad bar buzz (BMW K1100RSSE). The lead would certainly detune the bars, but I think you need more to dampen them. The snake is a good idea because it provides weight and a flexible attachment to the bars. This allows the bars to move independently of the weight until it starts to compress the rubber and move the weight. The weight is now at standstill, where it tries to stay and that counters the motion of the bars. Ideally, if you could slide a silicone sleeve into the bar and then pour the lead slug into that, I think that would give you the most dampening.
I've used the Bar Snake on my old '76 BMW and it seemed to help a bit, but once it's in there, if you change your mind it'd be a tough one to remove; on the plus side, you can install it without removing your handlebars. Heavy bar-end weights seem to work the best and instead of using molten lead to fill them, if you're going to try that fix, using small lead shot should have the same effect. Hammer a tight plug into one end of the bars and fill them, then plug the open end. Lead shot comes in some very small sizes (I think there's even one size called "dust") but it comes in 25lb bags so it'd be best to check at a local gun store or club to see if anyone's got some that they're doing some reloading with, to get the small amount that you'd need.
Might want to hurry....they're beginning to ban lead shot at a lot of trap and skeet ranges; bad for the environment, you know: Jim
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