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Discussion Starter #1
Since I've now FINALLY decided to race the thrux this year (CCS mostly as there are numerous classes I can run with). Maybe one of you guys already out there can post up the answer to this for me:

1. What ALL needs to be safety wired?
2. How did you safety wire the oil filler since it is flat?
3. I feel I can fabricate my own belly pan, what do I need to make sure of when doing so? IOW what does it need to cover?

I'm hoping my debut will be at Summit Point with CCS on the May 3 weekend...if not, it will be May 24 (I need to attend a school to get my license as it seems 45 track days with NESBA don't count LOL)
 

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Ccs

Let's talk about your license first. There are a number of ways to get the required certificate, and two of the cheapest are 1) take the CCS school offered on race weekends (under $200) or 2) take the Mid-Atlantic Road racing Club 's school www.marrc.org offered at Summit Point on the Friday before most races ($250). Both Cornerspeed (VIR)and Ed Bargy (TGPR) can also provide the certificate but cost more.

You can buy a replacement oil filler cap that can be drilled from Newthruxton.com although some folks have been able to just drill the edge of the filler cap I didn't want to try it. When it comes to the safety wiring be sure to get some really good drill bits, ie snap-on or equivalent. Without the carbon tipped bits your just gonna break drill bits, if you have a drill press it helps, but it's not required and many of the bolts can be drilled while still on the bike.

I actually went to a couple AHRMA events and just took pictures of Thruxtons that had been wired up to see what had to be done. For AHRMA You can count on having to wire both axel nuts, the oil lines, both brake caliphers, drain plug, oil filter, gear shift and rear brake pedals, throttle cable and muffler mounts. It's a pain in the butt, but once it's done, its done.

Two different belly pans are available, one fiberglass, the other metal. I bought my metal one from the Triumph shop the Hinds own in Ohio. The metal pan is fairly tricky to build and it's supposed to be able to hold all the oil contained in the engine which for a Thruxton is 4 quarts. The metal pan is about 1/2 what the fiberglass one costs.

I have not had to go through a CCS tech inspection yet but if the bike is AHRMA legal CCS should not be a problem. Jonah should be able to provide more insight, besides he's faster than I am!

Dman
 

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dman,

How are competitors safety wiring the throttle cables? At the throttle-end or carbs? How about the clutch cable?

greytop,

Check with sears or any good hardware store for a drilling jig. A steel block with a V groove down the center that makes drilling hex heads easier.

/Mike
 

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CCS requires 3 items to be saftey wired

1) Oil Filter - put a hose clamp around the oil filter and run safety wire through the end and wire to the frame

2) Drain Plug - Drill hole and safety wire to the frame. Used a new never used 3/32 drill bit, went through 3 bits on this bolt.

3) Oil Fill plug -Saftey wired to the long chrome pipe. Start by drilling vertical about 1/16 of an inch away from the slot. When the drill is about the depth of half a dime rotate the drill 45 degrees down and drill another depth of half a dime. Rotate the drill down parallel with the plug and drill straight through. Take your time and go slow, purchase a spare plug in case a mistake is made. Used a new never used 3/32 drill bit, went through 2 bits on this cap. I scratched up the chrome, so the cap was sanded and painted. Used Rustoleum High Temp Black paint to hide the scratches.
 

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throttle cable

Look at the rubber cover located where the throttle cable meets the handgrip, you will find a grove in the cover. I just ran some wire around the cover at this point.

What modifications have you done to the bike?

Dman
 

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Throttle Cable

Bella C

Sorry, misread sender

Throttle cable - see earlier message
clutch cable - nothing



Greytop
What mod's have you done to your bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Bella C



Greytop
What mod's have you done to your bike?
1. removed snorkel
2. removed AI
3. D&D pipes
4. rejet to taste
5. AVONS
6. Safety Wire Oil Filler, Filter and Drain Plug

Plan on:

1. race tech springs (1.0) and gold valve emulators
2. Works Shocks (Pro Racer)
3. Sliders
4. fork brace
5. new pegs (on stock sets)
6. 3 yellow plates
7. belly pan

So I'm good for both CCS and AHRMA, correct?

I plan on debuting on the May 3, 4 weekend in CCS at my home track, Summit Point. Would love to have a few other thruxes to run with..you gonna make it up for that one dman? I have two other buds who will also be making their racing debut. We all know the track, and area, very well so if you are coming up for that, let me know and we'll pit together (I know all the good pit areas too :) )

BTW, Summit had a complete repave last summer and it is a killer track with nice flow...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
by the way, I found a killer deal off of a SV racer on the gold valve emulators. IS this the correct RT part number:

FEGV S3801

thanks in advance...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
AHRMA requires a lot more safety wiring. Download their rules on their site.;)
yep...I see that..will have to do much more before doing any AHRMA events (lots of drill bits lol)

but I am already good to go with CCS. IT seems their requirements mimic NESBA's A group.
 

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Suspension

It is my understanding that the front end fixes for the SV's and the Thruxtons are the same parts, at least that's what I remember from Traxxon. Now as far as what's involved in each fix I'd go back to the suspension shop.

I don't think we'll get up to Summit until later in the year, maybe part of the the 3-day Memorial day weekend. I work at the High School so I'm pushing my schedule to make Kershaw(CCS) and TGPR (AHRMA) as it is now. Once we hit summer the rules change!

Your number plates need yellow backgrounds for CCS and white backgrounds for AHRMA. I had an extra seat cowl so I just painted it white and put my number on that. For CCS I'll get a yellow front and either yellow duck tape or vinyl over the cowl.

Other than the AHRMA Safety wiring and membership fee's to CCS and AHRMA you should be good to go!

Dman
 

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I have the Racetech SV emulator in my Thruxton; all that was required was to make an aluminum spacer for it, which was explained with their kit and also on their site, I believe. Set it at 4 turns for racing, with at least 20 weight Belray, or at two turns with 15 weight for the street.:D
 

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This thread is a Gold Mine of info! (thanks)

What an OUTSTANDING thread guys. Great tips. I'm making the same journey as greytop but it looks like I'm about 2 months behind him ;-) I'll be tracking mostly at Summit Point as well.

greytop: which belly pan did you end up with?

Also, with the emulators, any problem making the needed spacers?


- Carlos
 

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Safety Wire: Rear Brake

OK, I'm changing the pads on the rear brake and drilling the bolts for safety wire.

There are 2 caliper bolts (14mm head) that are easy to drill and wire.

There are 2 pad retention pins (5mm hex head) that are recessed (or flush) when completely installed. One of the rulebooks says these pins must be safety wired to pass inspection.

So: how did you do it??? replace the pins with bolts that have the heads non-flush?

Also: there was some corrosion on the pins... which I lightly sanded off and soaked in wd-40 and noticed the scratches show silver color instead of gold now... do you think the sanding removed any important finish on those gold colored pins - or should I not worry about it?


THANKS!

- Carlos
 

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Safety Wiring

I only drilled the two Caliper bolts (front and rear brakes), don't forget your rear brake lever, gear shift lever, throttle cable, and muffler mounts.

dman
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I only drilled the two Caliper bolts (front and rear brakes), don't forget your rear brake lever, gear shift lever, throttle cable, and muffler mounts.

dman
for AHRMA, not CCS

as far as I read, the only things required for CCS are:

Safety Wire the Oil Filler, Oil Drain, and Oil Filter
Have a drain Pan
Remove Kickstand (almost always required when adding a true drain or belly pan anyway)
3 Yellow Plates

am I missing something?
 

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Summary of Safety Wire Requirements

Hmmm... let me try to find where I read that.

---------------------------------
NESBA
---------------------------------
NESBAmanual.pdf

Says the usual: oil drain & fill plugs, oil filter.


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ASRA-CCS
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2008 ASRA-CCS Rulebook.pdf

5.2.13 All oil, fuel, and coolant carrying hoses or lines must be secured at all
connecting points by clips, clamps, safety wire, or other approved means.

5.2.14 Oil coolers must be securely mounted in a protected area. All
connections must be safety wired or otherwise secured by acceptable
means.

5.2.16 All engine, transmission, and fi nal drive unit drain plugs and fi ller caps
must be visibly safety wired. Oil fi lter bolts must be secured with safety
wire and spin-on oil filters must be secured with a metal clamp and
safety wire or other acceptable means. Fuel and radiator caps are
exempt. On all machines, enough body work must be removed
before coming to tech inspection so the Inspector can see them.


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AHRMA
---------------------------------
08_handbook.pdf

3.3.11 All hoses or lines that carry fluid must be secured at all connecting points by
means of screw- or clamp-type hose clamps and safety wire or a spring-type hose
clamp and safety wire.

9.4 LOCKWIRE REQUIREMENTS
Because historic racing motorcycles have unique characteristics of construction,
AHRMA has developed specific lockwiring requirements for roadracers. As a general rule
of thumb, “If in doubt, lockwire it.” Note: Only stainless steel lockwire may be used.
The following regulations apply in addition to those listed above.
a) Primary case filler, drain and level-check plugs must be lockwired.
b) Crankcase filler, drain and level plugs must be lockwired.
c) Transmission filler, drain and level-check plugs must be lockwired.
d) Any primary case, crankcase or transmission inspection plug must be lockwired.
e) Any primary case, crankcase or transmission overflow or vent hoses must be lockwired.
f) Oil filter nuts and oil filter plugs must be lockwired.
g) Fuel tank overflow lines must be secured and have a catch bottle or one-way valve
provided.
h) Lockwiring of carburetor drain plugs, or securing with a fuel-proof sealant, is encouraged.
i) All flexible oil lines must be a reinforced oil and gas resistant hose, and must be
secured by lockwire as secondary security, in addition to a swaged fitting or hose
clamp. Total-loss oiling systems must be equipped with unbreakable catch
bottles and/or a “select pad” diaper system.
j) All fuel and oil lines must be securely clamped or secured by other acceptable
means, and will be pull-tested during tech inspection.
k) All fork drains must be safety wired or securely taped.
l) Exhaust systems must be securely mounted and bolts lockwired. A secondary security
system is encouraged and may be required at the Tech Inspector’s discretion.
m) Brake torque arm bolt lockwiring is required.
n) If not lockwired, axle nuts must be secured with a cotter pin or other acceptable
means.
o) Foot brake pedal pivot bolts and nuts must be lockwired.
p) All brake rods and cables with threaded adjusters must be wired or cotter-pinned to
prevent the loss of the adjuster nut.
q) All throttle cables must be secured to the throttle housing by lockwire.
r) All disc brake caliper attaching bolts.



---------------------------------
MARRC Road Racing School
---------------------------------
http://marrc.org/html_docs/rrs.bikeprep.html

Axles and pinch bolts must also be wired.
Oil filler and any drain plugs (including fork drains) must be wired.
Kickstarter must be removed or wired.

All engine, transmission, and final drive unit drain plugs and filler caps must be visibly safety wired. Oil filter bolts must be secured with safety wire and spin-on oil filters must be secured with a metal clamp and safety wire or other acceptable means. At a minimum, this includes the oil drain, oil filler, and oil filter. Remember, if you change your oil during the weekend you must re-wire all of these points or face possible fines. Fuel and radiator caps are exempt from safety wire requirements.

Front fork drain screws must be safety wired or taped. This is best done with the wheel off; just wrap a few turns of duct tape around the fork lower to cover the screw. Safety wire them if you can since the tape can mask any seepage.

Kickstarters, if retained, must be secured at two points. You can wire the top up or use some type of bracket. Most organizations, including MARRC, prefer that you remove it completely.

In addition, exhaust header bolts and muffler mount bolts should be wired. Most tech inspectors will check these. If your exhaust baffles are removable, then they too must be wired as well.


---------------------------------
WERA
---------------------------------
http://www.wera.com/rulebook/?x=816

The following item must be safety wired, or secured in a manner approved by Tech:

axles or axle nuts
oil filler caps
kickstarter retaining bolts
axle caps and/or pinch bolts
oil drain plug(s)
removable exhaust baffles
brake caliper bolts
*oil gallery
plugs
radiator caps
brake torque arms
oil lines
coolant drains
speedo and tach cables
spin on oil filters/filter bolts
any pressure fed lubricant line
*fork oil drain screws/bolts
rear exhaust mount(s) (all)

*may be secured by silicone glue or H/D weather-strip adhesive in lieu of wiring.

a1)Substantial gauge “R” type spring clips may be used in certain applications but must be wired to the machine. Tab washers designed to accept safety wire may be used. Safety pin style clips may be used on most items but NOT on oil drains or oil filters.

a2)A catch can shall be fitted where required or at the direction of a Technical Inspector.

b) Fuel lines and any other fluid carrying lines must be clamped or secured by some other appropriate means.



---------------------------------
Other
---------------------------------

So after all that... I find the "safety wire the brake pad retention pins" comment in... the book "Total Control" by Lee Parks, page 154!

Somehow I got it in my brain this "suggesstion" was a requirement from AHRMA.

Sorry about that!

!#*%$#^%

You know, all this would be great to add to the Triumph Wiki ... if we still had it :-(

- Carlos
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hmmm... let me try to find where I read that.

---------------------------------
NESBA
---------------------------------
NESBAmanual.pdf

Says the usual: oil drain & fill plugs, oil filter.


---------------------------------
ASRA-CCS
---------------------------------
2008 ASRA-CCS Rulebook.pdf

5.2.13 All oil, fuel, and coolant carrying hoses or lines must be secured at all
connecting points by clips, clamps, safety wire, or other approved means.

5.2.14 Oil coolers must be securely mounted in a protected area. All
connections must be safety wired or otherwise secured by acceptable
means.

5.2.16 All engine, transmission, and fi nal drive unit drain plugs and fi ller caps
must be visibly safety wired. Oil fi lter bolts must be secured with safety
wire and spin-on oil filters must be secured with a metal clamp and
safety wire or other acceptable means. Fuel and radiator caps are
exempt. On all machines, enough body work must be removed
before coming to tech inspection so the Inspector can see them.
AHH..so I need to safety wire my Oil Cooler lines for CCS..I'd have never done that....thanks for posting that up Carlos...

Even though you say I'm a few weeks/months ahead of you in race preperation..I certainly know who to call when I have a "rules question" as you are "THE MAN"

BTW, if you want me to help you do your forks, give me a call..I'd be glad to "oversee" you doing it LOL
 

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GOT rear sets?
These were designed and Used by top racers in the Italian Thruxton cup.
These are legal for use in the Thruxton Cup Challenge by AHRMA too
4 adjustable positions.
Bolt on Process.
Comes with all the brackets and hardware needed.
Choice of any anodized color



The big big news
These are new.

These can not be used in the Thruxton Cup here in the USA but was used successfully in The Thruxton Cup in Italy.

JC
 
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