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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Back to debug mode.
Sorry, no cinders.

The issue at hand is...
At this light system load the R/R spends so much time in shunt mode that the Mosfet drive drops out.

Wait, Mosfet?
 

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You are one clever type eh. Arent you meant to be working. What is the likelihood of your good work failing and turning the bike to cinders. I get freaked out about this type of elec mod.
Thanks for the post by the way but why don't they do this from the factory.
Cheers Simmo
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Comments about inadequate insulation in kits remain.

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That said, here is what *does* worry me about these conversions:

My low profile HID ballasts provide somewhere around 60 to 120 Volts steady state as determined by the ageing HID tube. Current is controlled as a function of Voltage to maintain constant power. The power is 35 Watts in my case. So far, so good.

Follow the output lead of the ballast and you will find a secondary potted enclosure in the middle of the lead. This enclosure houses a high voltage pulse transformer that provides tens of kiloVolts to the lamp to ionize or start it. The lead wire out of the start pulse transformer is high voltage silicone insulated wire as it should be. The individual connectors on each lead also appear to be up to the task. So far, so good.

The pigtail to the HID tube on the H7 base (on my kit and probably others) however appears to be wired with standard automotive grade wire. It certainly isn't specialized high voltage cable. Not so good.
I will be locating the correct size pin extractor to pull the lamp pigtail shells and add a couple layers of sleeving to each wire.

It will be interesting to watch and see if any of these conversions flash over externally. It will make a bit of a mess if it happens. At least I'm running half the start pulses as others :)
The function of the pulse transformer and ballast is to ionize an arc path and then keep current flowing. It won't care if the path is internal to an HID tube, external to the tube, through your voltmeter or through your body.

In case you missed it in that last sentence, Under no circumstances *ever* try to measure HID ballast output voltage. Be careful.
 

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I am with Simmo on this one. I am totally bamboozled by your brilliance CLB.:confused:

You say the set up on the Sprint can't be good for the HIDs. What do you mean by this? Are they likely to have a shorter life?
 

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So with the much lighter load and with what I think you said earlier about the stock R/R operation, does this mean the R/R essentially becomes a thick toaster transforming the stator output into heat? If so then maybe the HIDs are a good thing for winter riding -- more light to shine on the snow and a hot right knee:D
 
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