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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
another clutch question (possible problem found)

I know there are threads here about clutches but I haven't found an answer for me already posted so I'm sorry for posting yet another clutch question but here it is.

I went on a 250mi poker run and on the way back about 10miles from the house the clutch gave up. I run a rigid with a springer front end so it does vibrate its self to death at times so maybe something got loose but you cannot pull the clutch, it is just stuck. I checked the cable and the push rod and both seem fine. Anything you can tell me to check next would be greatly appreiciated.

I'm 25 and live in the middle of nowhere northern MI so I have no one around here that knows anything about this bike. Everything has been done by my own trial and error but this may be beyond my abilities. I've called a few bike shops and as soon as you say "triumph" they want to hang up on me I think.

If you can point me in a direction I would really appreciate it or just tell me where to buy a new clutch if thats what it takes.

Thanks again for any help you can give me

P.S. I did find out today I should check the grooves in the clutch drum but I'm done for the night I'll pull that off tomorrow.

Oh and its a 1964 bonneville.
 

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I lost track a LONG time ago about who on this forum has a shop manual, and who doesn't. If you don't have one, GET ONE! I really appreciate my "Kim the CD Man" Triumph 2-disc set.

I was first going to say that possibly your center adjuster screw on your clutch pressure plate worked it's way loose, but that would result in your lever being able to pull all the way in with no effect.

Right off the top, I can't think of what would have to happen to make it where you couldn't pull the lever in at all...

Anyway, pulling off the tranny cover to inspect the ball/ramp actuator mechanism, and pulling off the primary cover to have a look-see at the clutch basket assembly is probably in order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a haynes manual but I've almost exhausted all of the suggestions in it.

The ball/ramp seems to work good and I already have the primary cover off. Nothing obvious yet but I haven't taken the clutch apart at all yet. I'll get to that tomorrow.

Have I stumped the great grandpaul?hahaha
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Plewsy I tried that first and it didn't change a thing.

I now have it torn completely apart. All the plates are out, the drum is off the bike, everything laying out in the open and I have found absolutely nothing wrong. I hate to put it back together having really done nothing but I can't think of any other options.

I guess my next plan of attack is to put it together just as it came apart and hope it was one of those problems that show up for no reason and goes away for no reason. I'll be crossing my fingers on this one.
 

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drat

HI poke, I put this in another thread thought it was this one, :(
so the same post:-

Did you cut your own clutch pushrod?
If you did , did you then heat the ends to" cherry red" heat then quench in oil?
If you did not heat the ends the rod stays soft and will mushroom usually on the kickstart side on the "oak leaf" lifter. So if you have the clutch pressure plate off try to pull out the rod, If it doesn't the problem is soft ends you will have to pull the rod out of the other side and fit a new one.
Only ever use a proper high carbon push rod.

Its another straw to clutch at ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks for the straw Plewsy.:D

Okay after my last little fit this is what I found, I don't know technical terms of parts so bare with me here.

First the 3 bolts that go through the springs are severely bent which I'm thinking could've stopped the pressure plate from going out since the bolt would've been pushing it over.

Second the pockets in the inner drum have pretty bad steps in them and are nowhere near smooth. Not sure this could cause anything but I will be cleaning them up.

Not sure what would've cause this. Possibly the bearing having to much play and causing the outer drum to tilt and put torque on the bolts? I didn't notice any play but thats not saying there wasn't any.

Oh yeah Third the cupped washer in the middle of the inner drum. I'm thinking this had a tab that goes into the hole inside the inner drum to keep the nut from backing off or tightening up? Well if that is what it was for the tab was busted off. No idea how that happened though.


I hope this all makes sense to everyone and maybe can be something others can look for if they run into this problem. I can take some pics if it will clear things up.


Then again all of this may have nothing to do with my problem but if anyone knows where to get those bolts and that washer let me know. Oh and probably a new bearing.
 

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Hi poke,
First, have a look inside your primary case cover and see if you can see any contact marks.
Second, the (pockets) Cups should have a pip in the bottom, it catches on the end of spring so it won't undo. If they have not got a pip in the bottom i.e. smooth you should change them.
Third, the (outer drum) Clutch basket will have a lot of wobble on it, that is normal even with new rollers all 20 of them.
And Quote "Oh yeah Third the cupped washer in the middle of the inner drum." I think you mean the clutch center nut, if it is not tabbed and has slackened off, you have found your problem.
Remove the clutch altogether and check no rollers are missing or turned over.
Pics are a great idea they say a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi again plewsy

Just to be clear I am not talking about the cups in the pressure plate I'm talking about the cups in the actual inner drum being rough and having a lip. I will check what you are talking about though.

I believe the tab on the washer being broke is my main problem but I don't believe the bolts being bent are helping any either. Any idea where I can order those parts?

Oh and yeah I do have all 20 rollers so atleast I have something right.
 

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I see now :)
inner drum (Hub) yes them holes should be smooth, remove the cups from the pressure plate, they should be a sliding fit and go all the way into the holes in hub.
You must replace the tab washer, the bent bolts will defiantly not help and can cause your type of symptom, you may be able to straighten them.
They usually get bent because they have slackened off and hit the case.
Also the pressure nuts (screws) for the springs should also have a pip on the head, if these are worn off they should be replaced.

I'm sorry m8 I have no idea where you will get bits locally.
Are the shock absorber rubbers in the hub OK?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've found a few places to order the parts I need but I need the part numbers and I have no idea how to find them.

I haven't taken the inner drum apart yet to see what shape the rubbers are in. Thats on the list for morning.

Thanks for the help Plewsy
 

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I would highly recomend getting a parts book.

Over here they're between £15-20 and are worth their weight in gold as they also have the line drawings that help figure out how it all goes together.

you might be able to photocopy one or get a PDF.
 

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Absolutely replace the 3 square-headed bolts, clutch fixing nut locktab washer, and smooth out the hub recesses for the spring cups.

You are well on your way to a proper working clutch.

An easy "helper tool" to tighten the center fixing nut is a simple bolt about 1" long. Lay it in a groove at the bottom of the clutch basket and tip it over to the right, then angle it up until it catches a groove on the inner hub. Now, start tightening the nut and it should stop free rotation (you should have the bike in gear and a mate holding the brake pedal).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you for the tip grandpaul and thank you very much for the link Plewsy that will help me out alot.

Now the bad part, putting tools away and getting out the debit card;)
 
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