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Discussion Starter #1
I have had my SE apart since last December.

I pulled the bodywork to get it painted. Left it with a local fellow who promised March. I went and retrieved the parts at the end of April, they had not been touched. I took it to Motorsport Concepts in Denver. If you want no compromise absolutely perfect work take your bike there. They painted the parts using Colorrite white and pacific blue. Dead match and came out really nice. I brought the tank to them and Motorsport Concepts matched the gold pin stripe and didn't charge me anything extra to add it in. So I have a fly screen and a Thruxton tail piece in two tone with a nice pin stripe on it. My side covers are blue, my tank is the stock blue and white.

Here is the one thing I want to say about the Andreani install. Everyone makes a big deal out of "needing to machine off" the place where Triumph rolls over the edge of the fork tube to capture a piece that is a damper rod mounting cup.

Do not be intimidated by this if you have a bench grinder.

I pulled the right tube fully expecting to have to take several more days to go to a machine shop and have this done. I disassembled the fork, took one look at that puny little lip and took it to my bench grinder. In less than five minutes I very slowly and methodically ground that lip off. Just slowly twirled the fork tube until the inner part was gone and the damper cup was exposed. Once I had the lip even with the damper rod holder I dropped a slide hammer thru the fork leg and it popped right out. You could drop any heavy piece of rod, shake it a couple of times and it will come right out.

That machining business had me planning a lot of unnecessary time and effort and expense.

If you just go slowly and take your time its nothing.

Once the damper rod cup holder was out I brushed it with the bench grinder brush and sanded it perfectly smooth with a piece of 800 grit. 15 minutes total. My standard is you can rub your finger over the whole lip and there is zero roughness. Easy to do, no machining necessary and I got both forks done and installed in about three hours.

Its a bit warm here today in Colorado and I am old so after a total of about four hours of setting up, working, getting up and down, going into my basement to grind and do a few other things and then taking the bike off the lift and putting things away I am going to sleep well tonight.

Later this week I will get the freshly painted body work back on it and take it for a ride.

I can't wait as I have a set of nice KBB shocks with springs from RaceTech and the perfect sag on the rear. Now the front end will be so much better and I can dial it in.

The seals and dust covers were replaced since the bike is a 2010. Easy to do in the overall process. Also used new copper washers on the bolts that hold the cartridges to the fork lowers. Everything was torqued to spec. Every bolt got a dab of blue locktite.

Pics and riding impressions to follow.

Happy to answer any questions if you are thinking about doing this.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Here are a couple of pics. I ordered a BC fender eliminator so I have that left to install and then its time to ride.

Once I got the bodywork back on it I turned the key on and, even after not riding it since last October or so it fired right up and ran like a champ. I just ran it up and down my street to see what it felt like. Way too short of a ride to say anything meaningful.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I left the gators off after thinking about it. Maybe I didn't think enough.

I guess it depends on the environment and how much you ride. If I get 2000 miles a season I am riding it a lot. I don't ride rain or more than freeway dust.

A stone could nick the fork but they are not really soft. I don't know. I am going to replace the rubber pieces between the triple tree and the headlamp holders. Maybe I put em back on then.
 
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