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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced the carb on my 1970 T100C with brand spankin' new Amal Premier 626 26MM concentric carburetor. Everything works great except that I have to tickle the carb three or four times after each kick before it finally catches.
Before I take it all apart, I would like to know if any of you guys have an idea or what might be causing this problem.
Thank you
 

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Hi Steve, I'd start by checking float level. On new Premier spec has changed from 1970. Now should be just above & horizontal to bowl gasket surface. The main casting is different so it accommodates this higher level. It should tickle quickly & freely compared to 1970 carb.

Also remove mixture screw & pilot jet & blow out passages when bowl is off. What size is your pilot jet? How far is your mixture screw out? Some carbs were supplied with too small pilot jet. Generally Premiers need 1 size larger than the old 1970 would have had.
Don
 

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Hi Steve,

replaced the carb on my 1970 T100C with brand spankin' new Amal Premier 626 26MM concentric carburetor. Everything works great except that I have to tickle the carb three or four times after each kick before it finally catches.
"Tickling" should be simply pressing the tickler 'til fuel appears. Once I know roughly how long that is on a given carb., I might release the tickler just before and give it one more quick press to confirm with a small amount of fuel showing.

As it's a new Premier, either have you checked the pilot jet number or did you ask for a specific number? Internet forum reports seem to be that Amal supply 626's with a #15 pilot jet, which appears to be too weak, posters often report increasing it to #17 or #19.

Nevertheless, it also appears to be wise to take new Amals apart before fitting; regrettably, rather too many reports of machining swarf being found in passages. :(

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Amals work just fine on the bikes their intended to fit...But I will no longer pay $200 for new devices needing to be totally disassembled before use and pee gas on the engine....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi Steve, I'd start by checking float level. On new Premier spec has changed from 1970. Now should be just above & horizontal to bowl gasket surface. The main casting is different so it accommodates this higher level. It should tickle quickly & freely compared to 1970 carb.

Also remove mixture screw & pilot jet & blow out passages when bowl is off. What size is your pilot jet? How far is your mixture screw out? Some carbs were supplied with too small pilot jet. Generally Premiers need 1 size larger than the old 1970 would have had.
Don
Thanks for your response. I checked the float level and it was just above the surface.
It has a #160 main jet and a #16 pilot. Blew out the passages. Tried the mixture screw in various positions and now it is 1&1/2 turns out.
The needle jet clip is in the middle groove.
It just seems that it doesn't get enough fuel to stay running.
After three or more efforts with tickling and kicking it then runs fine after a long warm up.
The choke seems to have little effect.
My replaced knee and 74 yr. old body is not happy!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Amals work just fine on the bikes their intended to fit...But I will no longer pay $200 for new devices needing to be totally disassembled before use and pee gas on the engine....
I hear you! I only bought a new carb only after many efforts to get it's original 50 yr. old carb going. (worn out slide and body)
I really hate to take it all apart when I don't really know what I'm looking for.
Does any one have any other ideas?
 

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Yes, a few years younger than you I still don't accept a bike not starting after first or second kick.
Do you use original air filter and exhaust?
How do you tickle your bike?
I do it on a full choke with tickler pressed down to a moment gas pouring down on a carb.
Starting during warm days above procedure was enough to start from the first kick, during colder days first start was all of the above + 3 slow kicks on engine off, than ign on and one stronger kick to start.
All this on A65 equipped with one carb.
I'd still advise to buy #19 pilot jet from Amal.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, a few years younger than you I still don't accept a bike not starting after first or second kick.
Do you use original air filter and exhaust?
How do you tickle your bike?
I do it on a full choke with tickler pressed down to a moment gas pouring down on a carb.
Starting during warm days above procedure was enough to start from the first kick, during colder days first start was all of the above + 3 slow kicks on engine off, than ign on and one stronger kick to start.
All this on A65 equipped with one carb.
I'd still advise to buy #19 pilot jet from Amal.
Thank you, great advice!
I do have a stock air filter and exhaust.
I tried your starting procedure and it fired right up.
As you suggested I will replace my #17 pilot jet with a #19.
I think you have headed me in the right track,
 

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Steve, it might just be kickstart speed linked to the knee replacement and age. I have some trouble due to knee weakness and hard to start when cold with oil drag. Starts easy once warmed as the engine will turn easier. A young pair of legs start it first prod.
My starting always involves flooding the carbs and i get just one go at it. If it fails, i have to flood it again. My shortcut method is easy start fluid if in a hurry but that can give you a kickback and flame out the carbs !
 

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SteveG, you do not say where you are located. I ride my bike year round. When the temperature drops I have a different method of starting to maintain a one kick start. Let us know what ambient temperature you are starting your new carb bike in. You also do not say if you use the choke. Thanks.
 

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I hear you! I only bought a new carb only after many efforts to get it's original 50 yr. old carb going. (worn out slide and body)
I really hate to take it all apart when I don't really know what I'm looking for.
Does any one have any other ideas?
I know my way around carbs but.....Depending on where you live, there is an Ebay seller named "Racing Norton" He is a known ,well, Norton racer/engine builder . Carl Hokanson in New England USA . He sells Amals, and Triumph/Norton parts for a low a price as anyone and personally inspects each carb before sending it out..
 

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Hi Steve

I also fitted a new Amal Premier last year and had a lot of trouble with it until I stripped it down and cleaned out all the machining swarf. It still took about 3 kicks from cold (flooding again between kicks). Like Rambo says it was due to my worn out knee not allowing a hard enough kick.

Earlier this year I fitted a Kickmagic starter kit and now the reduced effort means I can easily start it (I use my left, better leg) and best of all it has all but eliminated kickback.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #14
SteveG, you do not say where you are located. I ride my bike year round. When the temperature drops I have a different method of starting to maintain a one kick start. Let us know what ambient temperature you are starting your new carb bike in. You also do not say if you use the choke. Thanks.
I live in Southern Oregon. Winters are somewhat mild here. Usually 40 degrees +/-. I usually ride when the temp. is above 40 degrees.
I sometimes I use the choke and have not lived with this new carb long enough to know when to use it.
I hope this info. is helpful in further insights into your starting methods.
 

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I live in Southern Oregon. Winters are somewhat mild here. Usually 40 degrees +/-. I usually ride when the temp. is above 40 degrees.
I sometimes I use the choke and have not lived with this new carb long enough to know when to use it.
I hope this info. is helpful in further insights into your starting methods.
At aboout 40* F. when you prime the carb with the tickler is there a bit of combustion (like a second) then it dies or is there no combustion at all? If there is a bit of combustion then it dies then try holding down one of the ticklers during that brief ignition and the bike should continue to run. I start my bike while standing next to it on the right side so it is easy for me to hold down the tickler during a cold morning start (32* F. Or less) If there is no combustion, then fuel is not getting to the cylinders due to clogged pilot jet, low float, clogged petcock filters, or low octane fuel. Could also be your spark plugs are incorrect or improperly gapped or air filter is clogged. Eliminate all those possibilities then we'll give you another list. Good luck.

P.S. don't bother kicking over 2 or 3 times when checking the items on the list above. If it doesn't start after 1st or 2nd kick you need move on to next thing on the list to find the problem. Otherwise, if you keep kicking, you'll eventually need to fix your knee.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
At aboout 40* F. when you prime the carb with the tickler is there a bit of combustion (like a second) then it dies or is there no combustion at all? If there is a bit of combustion then it dies then try holding down one of the ticklers during that brief ignition and the bike should continue to run. I start my bike while standing next to it on the right side so it is easy for me to hold down the tickler during a cold morning start (32* F. Or less) If there is no combustion, then fuel is not getting to the cylinders due to clogged pilot jet, low float, clogged petcock filters, or low octane fuel. Could also be your spark plugs are incorrect or improperly gapped or air filter is clogged. Eliminate all those possibilities then we'll give you another list. Good luck.

P.S. don't bother kicking over 2 or 3 times when checking the items on the list above. If it doesn't start after 1st or 2nd kick you need move on to next thing on the list to find the problem. Otherwise, if you keep kicking, you'll eventually need to fix your knee.
Great suggestions.
I have a new Pilot jet arriving tomorrow. II will try all the things mentioned and will report the results.
Thank you all so much for sticking with me on this.
Steve
 

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I replaced the carb on my 1970 T100C with brand spankin' new Amal Premier 626 26MM concentric carburetor. Everything works great except that I have to tickle the carb three or four times after each kick before it finally catches.
Before I take it all apart, I would like to know if any of you guys have an idea or what might be causing this problem.
Thank you
I have a 1966 T100R I always kick the bike over a few times to charge the capacitor, tickle until i see fuel and give it a good kick and she always fires. Always check timing , point gap and valve clearances before carb issues. Good luck!
 

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I replaced the carb on my 1970 T100C with brand spankin' new Amal Premier 626 26MM concentric carburetor. Everything works great except that I have to tickle the carb three or four times after each kick before it finally catches.
Before I take it all apart, I would like to know if any of you guys have an idea or what might be causing this problem.
Thank you
Should have bought a Mikuni.
 

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On my 1970 BSA Firebird I replaced the amals with wassell carbys and have not had any problems what so ever
always start 1st or 2nd kick after tickling.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Glad Wassels worked out for you. Kinda late for me to change horses now!
I put in the new pilot jet but the bike developed an electrical problem, I'll report my findings as soon as I can get it to run.
 
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