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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know where in the UK I can get a float bowl drainplug that has the Hex rather than the screwdriver slot? Seen these available in the States but not UK, and US postage makes them to dear?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Seems SC don't monitor their online site mails, so no joy, anyone know what thread these drain plugs are and i'll source a die. Thanks.
 

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Hi Freakmaster
Try their quick access e-mail address below:wink2:

00441342 716 120

They are the nicest, most helpful people, you need to pay over the phone anyway, proper old school style.

Regards
Peg.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Tri150, Iv'e ordered the drain plug, that is what the hex was required for, to establish a quick drain facility, done one before but was looking for a neater solution. But I think I can improve on this Aussie one once it is received. Tar also to StuartMac 9/16" CEI was tried, but did not seem a correct pitch, perhaps just clumsy me, I'll look at that again. I take your point about overkill on retention, specially as once up on a time it was a plastic bung. The reduction on fuel capacity in chamber, and also flow to jets occurs to me, might be an issue though presumably these guys have tested this?
 

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No idea...I just saw them and thought it was an interesting idea irrespective of the sales pitch. But they could create their own issues, eg how do you ensure that the bowl is in its correct position if you don't use the two screws. The central mount looks OK but it would allow the bowl to swivel on the axis, not ideal.
Personally, I forked out the $$$$ and bought the hex drain plugs, plastic ones were always sh#t, the nickel coated brass copies were ok but still not ideal - the slot you use to tighten them is only every 180 degrees, the centre carbie on the Trident is awkward, the hex ones are great. I wouldn't go back.
 

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Hi,

9/16" CEI was tried, but did not seem a correct pitch,
Risking telling you something you know already, all Cycle thread diameters bigger than 5/16" can be 20 tpi or 26 tpi.

drain plugs,
nickel coated brass copies were ok but still not ideal - the slot you use to tighten them is only every 180 degrees, the centre carbie on the Trident is awkward,
Otoh, I've used the "nickel coated brass copies" for decades, never any problems - I tighten 'em finger-'n'-thumb-tight with the knurling through new thick soft washers; if finger-'n'-thumb won't loosen 'em, I've a right-angled flat screwdriver to start loosening, then finger-'n'-thumb.

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Stuart, yes approx 26tpi, but the bolt felt tight so didn't progress as not 100% sure, same with a 9/16" tap. Thanks T150V, If I do fit, I will make the screws as locating dowels. Also it would appear better for removing the bowl than fiddling with the two screws. The one sold does not really produce an 'easy' drain solution, as it's still a screw! so may adjust the (optional / not supplied) drain screw to a finger twist with an additional 'o' ring lower thread seal and horizontal spigot and drain pipe.
 

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FM - did you have no luck with Surrey Cycles? They list exactly what you want:

34/35. Hex Stainless Steel Drain Screw & Washer – £8.00

The "Australian things" will be much more expensive, and will not provide the simple drain facility that you seek. You will not be able to adapt them into drain plugs.

If they are available for £8 in stainless locally, I can't imagine bothering to make them.

Regarding the difficulty of inserting supposedly the correct thread bolt/tap into your bowl, the threads in the bowl are often crusted with fuel residue, and may need scrubbing with a brass brush.
 

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Hi,
I've used the "nickel coated brass copies" for decades, never any problems - I tighten 'em finger-'n'-thumb-tight with the knurling through new thick soft washers; if finger-'n'-thumb won't loosen 'em, I've a right-angled flat screwdriver to start loosening, then finger-'n'-thumb.

Hth.

Regards,
If it works for you, great, don't stop {some still say points ignition is best!!! I went to EI decades ago}.
Didn't work for me, and was a PITA to live with. You don't know what your missing till you switch to hex bungs.
I knew because I had MKII Amals on my twin and the hex bungs on them convinced me to do the same for the Trident.
 

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Hi,

approx 26tpi, but the bolt felt tight so didn't progress as not 100% sure, same with a 9/16" tap.
Just checked with Burlen and the guy checked the drawing while I was on the 'phone - 9/16"Cycle, 26 tpi; as "koan58" posted, likely simply corrosion or other crud in the threads making it difficult for a correct-size bolt, plug or tap to fit?

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Hi
My first thoughts after seeing the ‘Australian things’ was not "this is a great way to hold the bowl on" but I did think ‘If the holes in the tube were a little higher, a sump would be created on the outside of the tube, any debris or water coming through from the tank might settle in this area, cleaner fuel would be taken from higher up in the float bowl. Maybe it would assist in keeping the main jet clear. (Or maybe it wouldn’t).

Regards
Peg
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks Stuart, bit the bullet and run a tap in, don't know if different threads were used but it recut with a fair amount of swarf. No big deal if it turns out different as the Aussie clamp - on will not use the thread anyway. According to the pic of the 'drain' type adapter the hex is deep enough to drill for a 1/16" spigot, I like the idea of modifying it to take a twist tap for draining. My previous effort had 1/4 bsp fuel taps screwed in (lowered to clear main jet) and rubber tubes exiting below frame, which worked fine, but looks a little messy. I take RW's point about a sump, if using the drain, would not want to leave debris in it so I may see how much I can lower the holes if req'd.
 
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