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Discussion Starter #1
What year did Triumph change it from a bolt at either end to a through bolt? Mine's a 98 900 Trophy.

Mine has a slight noise around the alternator area, like a rattle at idle that goes away at around 2500RPM. I'll pull the alternator off this winter.
 

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Hi Nurse Bill, Yours question is kind of a head scratcher. One way to check is to hear a difference at the alternator area when the headlight is turned off then on. You can't do that on your bike, but you can switch from high beam to low beam. Do you then hear a change in the rattle? 2wheelpros can get the parts you need. When pulling out the alternator the cush drive assembly will probably come out with the alternator if the bolt head is broken from the splined shaft. Then it will be necessary to do the repair. Here's a link for 2wheelpros showing the schematic.
http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/1998-triumph-trophy-alternator-starter-drive-gears-assembly.html
Looks like the parts go by the engine # not the VIN# so it's hard to say if your bike uses the better thru bolt configuration. After you get the alternator off write back and let us know what you see. Changing to the thru bolt splined shaft isn't that hard if you leave the old shaft in-place. So do yourself a favor and DON'T take out the old shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Hi Nurse Bill, Yours question is kind of a head scratcher. One way to check is to hear a difference at the alternator area when the headlight is turned off then on. You can't do that on your bike, but you can switch from high beam to low beam. Do you then hear a change in the rattle? 2wheelpros can get the parts you need. When pulling out the alternator the cush drive assembly will probably come out with the alternator if the bolt head is broken from the splined shaft. Then it will be necessary to do the repair. Here's a link for 2wheelpros showing the schematic.
http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/1998-triumph-trophy-alternator-starter-drive-gears-assembly.html
Looks like the parts go by the engine # not the VIN# so it's hard to say if your bike uses the better thru bolt configuration. After you get the alternator off write back and let us know what you see. Changing to the thru bolt splined shaft isn't that hard if you leave the old shaft in-place. So do yourself a favor and DON'T take out the old shaft.
Thanks bud! I'll yank the alternator off this winter. The noise doesn't really change a whole lot when you run extra electrical stuff that I can notice. My Trophy is a 1999, I typed that one. I read somewhere that they changed stuff in 1998.

Just checked my engine number is 84468 so it would have the thru bolt.
 

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Hi Bill, Yeah they did do some changes in 1998. Different fork supplier, engine paint color, windshield from 9 screws to 11 screws and it also changed the angle of the windshield, some engines no longer have the engine oil dipstick, or maybe that was only on the 1200 engines. The 1200 engine also got a different head and head gasket. The old style splined shaft driving the alternator has a bolt head on each end. The thru bolt shaft has the bolt head on the clutch side and the nut on the alternator side.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, mine has a dipstick. All in all for a 20 year old motorcycle it's been good. I have a feeling the coils will be going next but they check out resistance wise so far. I'd like to swap out the mufflers as well. It has around 44k on it now, want to see how long it'll last.
 

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Hi Bill, Replacing the coils with stock coils can be expensive, also the spark plug wires are really expensive. There is a good cost effective way to make the switch to stick coils, also called coil over plugs (COP'S). I made the switch on my 900 engine bikes, too bad I haven't figured out how to do it on my 1200 engined Trident. Originally guys were using the stick coils from the Triumph 600 Daytona engines, the stick coils will be kind of old. The newer Triumph 1600/1700Thunderbird uses the same stick coils. So watch Ebay and you can get a good deal on stick coils that will only be a few years old. The other good thing is no more spark plug wires. How loud do you want the new mufflers to be?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've found replacements so that's not a big deal but I keep thinking the coil-on-plug would be the way to go. Again, mine are still within spec resistance wise and no issues really.

Not straight pipe loud but more noticeable than stock. I have an Arkapovic on my SV650 that is louder than stock but not loud enough to attract negative attention. About the only exhaust they have anymore for a 20 year old Trophy is Delkevic.

FYI I had Sarachu (exhaust company from Brazil) slip ons on my Ninja 500 back in the day. You could toss a 50 cent piece down the end of them. It was ridiculously loud.
 

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Hi Bill, Replacing the coils with stock coils can be expensive, also the spark plug wires are really expensive. There is a good cost effective way to make the switch to stick coils, also called coil over plugs (COP'S). I made the switch on my 900 engine bikes, too bad I haven't figured out how to do it on my 1200 engined Trident. Originally guys were using the stick coils from the Triumph 600 Daytona engines, the stick coils will be kind of old. The newer Triumph 1600/1700Thunderbird uses the same stick coils. So watch Ebay and you can get a good deal on stick coils that will only be a few years old. The other good thing is no more spark plug wires. How loud do you want the new mufflers to be?
I did the "double" on my Trophy. That would be the Johnson Jolt (RIP Ed) aka coil relay mod AND the TT600 stick coils. Thanks for the tip on the newer TBird coils.

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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Hi Glenn, I miss Ed, we exchanged a lot of emails over the years. I've done the Johnson Jolt to all of my bikes. Better spark and quicker startup. That is one of the better mods I've done to my bikes, also splitting the back half of the air box. I gave away my '96 900 Trophy to a good friend. So I'm now down to my original Frankenstein bike a 900 Sprint built from dead parts, and another Frankenstein a 1200 Trophy turned into a Trident.
Greg
 

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Hi Glenn, I miss Ed, we exchanged a lot of emails over the years. I've done the Johnson Jolt to all of my bikes. Better spark and quicker startup. That is one of the better mods I've done to my bikes, also splitting the back half of the air box. I gave away my '96 900 Trophy to a good friend. So I'm now down to my original Frankenstein bike a 900 Sprint built from dead parts, and another Frankenstein a 1200 Trophy turned into a Trident.
Greg
Hi Greg,

Yup, Ed was a man's man. He really lived his life. You know that extra cylinder turned it into a QUADRANT, right? :wink2:

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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Drill and tap the alternator for an M8 bolt. It can be done in a drill press, even a cheap one. With the larger bolt, the problem will not return.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
So I finally got to investigate my noise. My alternator drive uses the bolt and nut, it was solid. The cush rubbers were in very good condition. The bolt on the end of the alternator was a 10.9 bolt. It was just loose enough to make the alternator drive hub have play in it. Replaced it and added some blue Loctite. It got rid of a good amount of the noise. Total time: 30 minutes minus getting the bolt.
 
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