[Hipa]

Hi

I have 2007 Speed triple. I'm not that familiar with electrical systems of bikes. I have a service manual for 2005 but I expected the wiring to be identical between the two models!?
I'm now installing an alarm system (not the OEM one). The instructions says that I need to cut the starter motor cable (the alarm wires go in between). I have looked from the wiring diagram that the starter motor to solenoid wire should be black (B). Instead of cutting that one I'm thinking of cutting the starter motor solenoid to starter motor relay wire (white-red, WR) because it is much more easily accessible (near the fuse box).

So my question is that if I use the white-red wire and install the alarm there instead of "straight" to starter motor - solenoid would this have the same effect??
My logic says that it should but I'm not sure so that's why ask the more experienced.
BTW, where the tarter solenoid is located? I can see the starter motor of course but where is the solenoid?

I hope someone has the answer, thanks in advance

 

[Martin_R]

I would not cut any wires on the harness, but instead modify the OEM alarm connector blanking plug. All wires you need should go through the connector + you can wire your alarm to blink the alarm LED on the dash.

You can source connectors for the alarm plug from RS Finland, in case you want to create your own plug:

Plug: Tyco AMP 173851-1 / RS 362-9086
Female: Tyco AMP 174933-1 / RS 362-9193
Push-in pins: Tyco AMP 175029-1 / RS 362-9373

Edit. Also worth noting that your Speedy is one of the longer cranking VINs. I would not install a battery drain like an alarm unless you can routinely hook the bike onto a charger. Starting with a low battery is not good for the sprag clutch.

 

[Hipa]

Thanks Martin. Note, that I should have the later model though with the newer ecu generation (if you were referring to the ecu-model).

The alarm connector, I can see it in the wiring diagram quite clearly, but where is it physically?
Under the seat there's a black connector of which function is unclear to me (and no, I'm not referring to the ECU connector cable). Is the alarm connector that one? It has black looped wires in the "dummy connector" end.

 

[Martin_R]

It has black looped wires in the "dummy connector" end.

The connector that has the jumper wire blanking block on it is the alarm connector.

You should have always on +, switched +, turn signals, dash LED+ & -, starter etc. available at that connector.

Just have a look at the blanking plug, your alarm should be wired so that the jumper wires are not connected when alarm is on, and are connected when alarm is off. Seeing that you have the wiring diagram handy, best check the exact pins from there.

 

[Hipa]

Thanks!! i will march to pin store straight away on monday and try this out.

Let's see what happens..

 

[DEcosse]

Everything you need for an after-market alarm is available on that connector

Use either or both of the two interlocks shown for your alarms immobilizer contacts (the 1-2 if you only have one; leave jumper in the one you don't use)

One word of caution - the OEM indicator lamp in your speedo display is just a bare LED - it is NOT 12V!
So you can use this for your alarm indicator, but be sure not to stuff 12V up it - about 2.5V only
If your alarm system has an LED indicator, you can connect the output wires to this instead (via same alarm connector plug) so you don't have to mount anything.

 

[Hipa]

Thank you guys, very helpful! Thanks DeCosse for the pics, they make my life a lot easier! One more question. Is there a "trick" to get the pins out from the connector or do I just use brute force to remove them? It would seem that if I try to pull the pin out the cable just becomes loose and the pin stays in..

Thank you for your time.

 

[grizzly adams]

There is a small tab holding the connectors in, use a small jewellers screw driver to release from the plug

 

[DEcosse]

Which alarm system are you going to be using Hipa?


This is a different connector (with female terminals for starters!) - but the principle is essentially the same - the 'latch' is a a plastic tab you access from the open side of the connector shell; pull it away from the terminal and pull the wire/terminal out from the back side.
I use a dental pick - even an opened up paper clip will work.

Credit to TeeRiver over at SVRider for this pic.

 

[Hipa]

Thanks again for taking your time and efforts to help me!! It is greatly appreciated. The picture again was very helpful and illustrative.

I'm installing Steelmate.

The OEM connector type (Rs/Tyco) that Martin pointed out seems to be very hard to come by. It seems that currently you cannot get the pins from RS or Tyco because they are out (based on yesterdays hard googling they are out all over europe). I will try to go to local stores and see if they have stocked these items but I very much doubt it since it is such a specific item.
Anyways, it seems that alternatively I could change the connector module all together (also the female side where the cables currently are plugged in). I'm assuming that "any" 12 pin connector will do the trick as long as the wiring is done identically. What I need to do is configure the connector with identical wiring configuration as the original one and I'm good to go.

 

[DEcosse]

Try this terminal - for 16 gauge wire

175030-1; RS Stock No. 362-9389

http://fi.rsdelivers.com/product/te-connectivity/175030-1/multilock-070-pin-20-16-awg/3629389.aspx

(definitely in stock in UK)

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/produ...2267573743D3336322D393338392677633D4E4F4E4526

Are you getting this alarm? Or one of the other two?

Note that you don't have to install their supplied LED - simply connect to pins 10 & 11 in the OEM connector plug & utilize the on-board LED on your instrument panel.

 

[Martin_R]

The pins are so cheap that maybe worth ordering both sizes and see which turns up first. The larger (same as OEM) pins are going to be re-stocked Friday this week, so unless you are really itching to install, just wait a few days.

If RS UK shows something as in-stock, you can usually get it via RS Finland with a 1-2 day delay. They get daily deliveries from the main UK warehouse.

 

[Hipa]

Martin, I'm not that itchy . I will place an order for different sizes and see what happens. At least this way I don't have to touch the original female connector end in anyway.

DeCosse: The alarm is not quite that one. I think that the alarm in the link is a newer revision since mine is 886G0 (versus 886W).

about the Led: I'm going to discard the led that came with the alarm and hook the alarm to the dash as you suggested. I get the led light without fussing with mounting and wiring

Thanks to you both, you've been of great help!!

 

[DEcosse]

....The larger (same as OEM) pins are going to be re-stocked Friday this week ....

The number you quoted (362-9373) is actually for smaller gauge wire Martin, 20-24 vs 16-20 (362-9389)
You guys probably use Metric wire sizes - with wire gauge standard, smaller number = bigger wire.

 

[tinks43]

Alarm Help

Hi, I've had a brand new cheap HT-2001 alarm/immobiliser sat on the shelf intended to fit to another bike which I sold, I've since got a 2011 Bonneville 865 and thought I'd use it on that.

After reading through here to double check a few things I bought the plug adaptor & pins, wired it up:

1 Grey
2 Pink
3 Looped to 5
4 Orange
5 Looped to 3
6 Red
7 Yellow
8 Yellow
9
10
11
12 Black

At the moment I plugged its own led together as its reading 12v so can't connect it through alarm plug for dash led.

So here goes:
The alarm works, indicators blink, it reminds me to set after 7 seconds of ignition off.
But... If I accidentally forget to disarm fuse 6 (ignition) will blow

My first thought was to remove the Orange wire as this runs through the same line to fuse. But if I do this it arms itself (which it shouldn't) even when disarmed and bike running!

I've tried multiple combinations of grey & pink both on 1&2 & 3&5.

So at the moment I've got it as alarm only (removed grey & pink) & looped like blanking plug until hopefully someone knows of a fix not to keep blowing fuse 6 if I or a friend happen to forget?

I've never attached the Blue wire as this is for remote start only & is taped up out of the way.

Your help is much appreciated
Many Thanks

 

[tinks43]

Fitting Instructions

 

[tinks43]

Function of wires

 

[DEcosse]

Isn't Chinglish just wonderful?

Your wiring connections would be fine - at least as far as the schematic shows!

However please note:

Grey Wire: When the system is in the alarmed* condition it outputs GROUND!!!! and controls turn-off of the bike.

There's your problem - it's shorting pin 1 to ground, which is the main ignition circuit - and why it is blowing Fuse 6

I believe it's like a std relay-cut-out used on most auto alarms - You MUST use a relay with that if you want an immobilizer

Wire 1 & 2 between pins 30 & 87a of a 5-pin relay (normally-closed pole)
Connect the pink wire also to pin 2 and to 86 and grey wire to the 85.

In armed/ignition-off condition there will no +voltage on the relay 86 so it is not energized and not draining current
However if someone hot-wires the bike and the ignition feed becomes 'live' then the relay energizes and the 1-2 circuit is broken. (ie immobilized)
In dis-armed condition, the grey wire is NOT ground, therefor the relay is off even though the 86 terminal is 'live'

* Note also it says 'alarmed' - it might mean that but I suspect really means 'armed'

 

[tinks43]

Great, thanks. Would that need to be a 5a or 10a? As the fuse is a 10a

Cheers

 

[DEcosse]

5A or 10A 'what?'