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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is it possible to remove the back portion of the airbox to cut it(for easier access in the future) without unhooking the front and disturbing the carbs?
I have the tank and rear fairings off right now replacing vacuum and fuel lines and would like to check the filter but do not want to disturb the carbs.
 

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I don't recall if the the carbs were disturbed, but the mod has been done, search the older threads. There are pictures and everything! But I do not remember the author.
I did take the airbox apart one mine once. The center lower screw was a MF'er. I don't recall if I used a very long screw driver or a phillips bit in a gear wrench...sorry.
Mark
 

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Gamsa is right. You will have to take the carbs off if its the first time you are changing the filter element. I've done mine (one of the first mods I done on getting the bike) and its not really that hard.
After loosening the carbs, you dont have to fully take them off nor disconnect the throttle cables, you will be able to remove the complete air box once you loosen the clamps.
When you come to cutting it I recommend doing it at an angle of approximately 45 degrees in the middle where it would sit next to the frame.
Its well worth getting a K & N panel filter as these flow much better,sound better and will outlast the bike itself.
When putting back together,
1st put carbs back on bike,
2nd put the carb side of the air box back on,
3rd put the filter in, if using a K & N you will have to discard the plastic bit inside the air box,
4th put the outer box, in two halves, back on.
I have left the bottom middle screw off mine and put a thin smear of sealant in it place, This together with the hold of the other screws holds it in place and has never caused me any problems in the 3,000 miles I have done since first doing the mod.
Good luck and it really is not hard to do.
Safe riding all,
Oz.
 

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air box mod

Ive done a 900 and a 1200 follow OZ,s instructions. And yes leave the middle screw out.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the responses. I was afraid of messing with the carbs because I was not wanting to have them re-synched(sp?). I may go ahead and pull it.
Any need to re-jet due to the K&N flowing so much better than stock??
 

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You DO NOT have to take off the carbs to change the air cleaner. I just went through this.

There is an air box mod that takes about 20 minutes to do and works perfectly if you don't mind modding the air box. The mod will NOT change anything except the exterior of the airbox and then you can slip in and out the air filter anytime you want, even on the road.

1. You can reach the rear facing screws on the topside without modding the box. All it takes is patience.

2. The bottom screws are the ones you can't get to.

3. Get a half handled hacksaw or better yet, just the blade itself. You DO NOT want the kind with very fine teeth since you are cutting a plastic that will just load up the teeth and make this a very slow process.

4. Wrap one end of the blade with some cloth to protect your hands. You are only going to do this once so make life easy, just wrap some cloth around it, enough to hold onto.

5. Cut away the inside rear facing bottom side air box screws. DO NOT cut all of them away, just the ones you can't reach with the driver. The flexible nature of the hacksaw blade is just what allows you to do this. You are going to press the blade up against the lower part of the air box and firmly but carefully cut away the portion that sticks down below the flat portion of the bottom of the air box. If you just do this with a bit of care, they cut away smoothly and along with that plastic come the screws.

What you end up with is just the outer clamping screws. Remove them with a driver and then move the front portion of the air box slightly toward the carbs. The air cleaner can then slide out toward you.

With this arrangement, you can also loosen the air box to carb clamps and remove the front part of the air box altogether. This is a bit more involved since you'll also be removing the side parts of the air intakes.

If you use this mod, an air filter change takes about 5 minutes if you have the new filter ready. I replaced the stock filter with a K&N and it worked perfectly. I cleaned the stock filter so I can take it along as a spare on long trips just in case.

This mod can't be seen without really looking closely and if you used some patience, it is almost impossible to tell.

The air box seals very well and since it is so rigid, there are no air leaks with this mod. The most outward bottom screws and the top screws keep the air box sealed as tight as stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I did go ahead and pull the carbs at the insistence of my mechanic and he was correct. There was crap in the bottom of each bowl. Especially #3.
I then went ahead and cut the airbox in half. I had my band saw out for another reason and went ahead and used it to cut the rear section of the box in half. It had a very thin blade on it and made a perfect cut. I had considered cutting it as Hallofaller suggested before deciding to pull the carbs. So far I am glad I did.
My mechanic has a manometer to resync for me after I get it back together. Taking it to him anyway for a new front tire.
FWIW, I am replacing the stock air filter with a K&N. Just for grins I went to the local Autozone and they ordered one for me yesterday and it is there today. Cheaper than I had found it in other places.
 

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Great post - I was about to remove the carbs before i read this one - I managed to get all screws out except the lower middle - I ordered OE triumph filter with airbox so I cut away the old box with a large tin snips till all that was left was the lower middle screw with a little plastic around it which I cut with a hacksaw blade - I'll cut the new box in half for next time - took about an hour and fitting new filter should be a breeze when it arrives and didnt have to touch the carbs the old filter was very dirty and probably the reason for a flat spot - could be so much easier with a slide in filter!!!! BTW its a 900 Daytona!
 

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Great post - I was about to remove the carbs before i read this one - I managed to get all screws out except the lower middle - I ordered OE triumph filter with airbox so I cut away the old box with a large tin snips till all that was left was the lower middle screw with a little plastic around it which I cut with a hacksaw blade - I'll cut the new box in half for next time - took about an hour and fitting new filter should be a breeze when it arrives and didnt have to touch the carbs the old filter was very dirty and probably the reason for a flat spot - could be so much easier with a slide in filter!!!! BTW its a 900 Daytona!

THATS JUST GREAT!! This is gonna be like my life on the FJR forum when I had that bike..

I love to tinker.. and I love to mod.. Now I have something to play with this weekend. Hacksaw.. wonder what that looks like.. *scratching head.. K&N. thats a filter right (kidding)..

Imma put a loud horn on it too, Steble.. I think I have one around somewhere and my hyper lights from the crashed feejer.. Fun fun fun
 

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I think Ive got this about figured out,a pic or two would be great,something about cutting an airbox in half just seems bizzare.
My 1200 airbox looks to be cracked/broke around some of the bottom screws that hold it together.
That cant be good.
 

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It will look a lot easier with the tank and panels off - the airbox comes in two bits - front and rear and if yours is already cracked you need a new one anyway and original Triumph filters come with an airbox too - the the reason for cutting it in half (rear box) is that it can slide in from each side without having to remove the carbs and next time will be a easier job, leave out the lower middle screw - you cant get to it anyway - I sugest you remove as many screws as possible from the old box - you should get all but the lower middle and cut away the rear box and pull it out in bits - order a new airbox and fiter first (About £43 wemoto) Slice the new rear box vertically near the center and very very good luck (-;
 

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Be careful with doing the air box mod. It sounded easy enough but my first attempt at doing it turned out to be a mess.

When I bought my bike, the air filter was soaked in gas so I took off the airbox to dry and clean the filter. I did the airbox mod (Leaving the middle screw out) and put it back in. After a few weeks of riding, something (maybe vibration) caused the plastic airbox to break around the upper lip where the screws were (maybe was old plastic). So I had to order another airbox.

I was going to try the airbox mod again, but the new one I got had some kind of lock nuts on the inside so I could not remove the outer four bigger screws. They just kept spinning and not coming out. So I was forced to put the box back in as a whole unit.
 

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Yes, just when you think you're getting somewhere - my new airbox/filter arrived today and I had the same problem with the two screws on each side of the box - why have they put screws in that won't unscrew?? - anyway they are out now (don't ask) I'm going ahead with the modification but will take head of your words and keep an eye on it - maybe put a bead of silicone around the join - I noticed the new box had a bead around it! I would just like to clean/chane the filter once a year and the mod would make it an easy job - the old filter looks like it hasnt been changed in years!
 

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The carbs were leaking on my 1200 so their off the bike now,the airbox is broken in several places and cracked in others along the bottom front to back flange. This on a low mileage bike that has never been worked on as far as airbox or carbs.
Now Ive got to order an airbox and hope it doesnt fall apart also,not so sure about cutting the rear section in half if it might make it fall apart sooner.

I guess I'll try a Suzuki dealer for rebuild parts for the carbs,only has 18000 miles on them so nothing should be worn out really.
Seems like an awfully low quality piece of British engineering as far as the airbox,they must have got in a hurry.
 

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Did petrol leak into the sump? I had petrol in the sump and went into a blind panic - it seems from other posts it can happen - my petrol cock broke and it was on prime without me knowing - I've drained the sump and flushed - will take it easy foe a while! I've put the new airbox on with silicone and the cut down the centre it looks ok but will monitor it and see how it works - have you looked at the two filters at the rear end of the airbox - they look old and falling apart and look like they would be better discarded?
 

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Did petrol leak into the sump? I had petrol in the sump and went into a blind panic - it seems from other posts it can happen - my petrol cock broke and it was on prime without me knowing - I've drained the sump and flushed - will take it easy foe a while! I've put the new airbox on with silicone and the cut down the centre it looks ok but will monitor it and see how it works - have you looked at the two filters at the rear end of the airbox - they look old and falling apart and look like they would be better discarded?
Ive taken the carbs off and had a look,theres nothing wrong with them I can see,yet the airbox will flood with gas as well as the sump if it goes on long enough. No matter how much I check the carbs out everything looks fine.
Hmmmmmmmm.............I didnt notice any filters at the rear of the airbox.
 

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Yeah there are two cylindrical foam covered filters that pop into the airbox and are kept in place by the airtubes at the back - they might affect the airflow a bit so I might replace them! There does not seem to be (fingers crossed) any damage from the sump filling with fuel - I drained it well and left it to stand with the plug/filler cap off for a few days - I'll be watching for it happening again and over the winter might have the carbs serviced!
 

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Yeah there are two cylindrical foam covered filters that pop into the airbox and are kept in place by the airtubes at the back - they might affect the airflow a bit so I might replace them! There does not seem to be (fingers crossed) any damage from the sump filling with fuel - I drained it well and left it to stand with the plug/filler cap off for a few days - I'll be watching for it happening again and over the winter might have the carbs serviced!
So many things to check now after reading this forums for a bit. My Nolan Coils are here.. K&N is in route.. and now I will check all these other items while I have it apart, and do the airbox mod.

Front forks need attention next. I am a pretty big boy.. but the bike divers pretty hard on front brake application.. I am sure the springs are tired at least. This is one (of several things) I have never attempted to rebuild. Hopefully I can find some tips/tricks/advice on that evolution here as well..

Gonna be a nice weekend to hide in the garage and play with the bike

R
 
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