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Call me a butcher, but for the life of me, I gave up trying to get the carbs and air-box back in without losing most of the skin off my fingers.

A simple mod (that seems to work) was to remove the airbox and cut abount 10mm off the ends of the airbox (where it connects to the rest of the snorkle). That seemed to be just the right amount to allow the airbox to move backwards an extra bit to allow the carbs to slide in easily. There is sufficient coverage on the two sliding rubber connectors to completely cover any gap left after when it's all back in it's right place.

Without want to tell anyone how to suck eggs, dropping the engine single-handed is easy, fitting it back is not quite so easy. However, I found that if you jack the bike up and place it (sitting on the centrestand) on a block of wood about 5 inches high, it provides just sufficient height to wheel the engine in on a trolly jack and lift it into place. It's probably a good idea to cable-tie the front brake on and put a couple of heavy supports to keep the front wheel straight. I found it much easier to attach the front engine bolts first, and then lower the jack (so the engine is left hanging by just the two front bolts). And to then jack the rear of the engine into place and fit the rear bolts then trying to align all six at once...
 

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i found the trolley jack to be invaluable when i changed my engine, although, i think once i had the top front mounts on, it would have been easier to swap the trolley jack for a bottle jack
 

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A simple mod (that seems to work) was to remove the airbox and cut abount 10mm off the ends of the airbox (where it connects to the rest of the snorkle). That seemed to be just the right amount to allow the airbox to move backwards an extra bit to allow the carbs to slide in easily.
Interesting solution. Some have opted to split the back half of the airbox vertically which allows the entire airbox to come off first and on last when you take one of the back sides off. Yours might be simpler.
 
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