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I seem to remember mention of issues with aftermarket horns like the Denali Soundbomb Mini, namely 5 amps being too high a power draw compared to stock, resulting in an error code when the horn is used.

Can anyone using an aftermarket horn confirm that it does not cause a fault code, blow fuses or other problems?
 

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Why not just use a mini relay and run it from the OE horn connection.

You can waken the neighbours with 20Amps of truck shiftin' dB.
 

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I seem to remember mention of issues with aftermarket horns like the Denali Soundbomb Mini, namely 5 amps being too high a power draw compared to stock, resulting in an error code when the horn is used.

Can anyone using an aftermarket horn confirm that it does not cause a fault code, blow fuses or other problems?
I've had no problem using it with the stock horn circuitry. Post #26 at http://www.triumphrat.net/water-cooled-twins-talk/728138-weak-horn-3.html#post8083418 Has some notes on where I placed it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've had no problem using it with the stock horn circuitry. Post #26 at http://www.triumphrat.net/water-cooled-twins-talk/728138-weak-horn-3.html#post8083418 Has some notes on where I placed it.
Yes, I found that horn thread (searched through all of them) and am familiar with that post. Useful photos for location and size relative to the stock horn, thanks for that.

I think I'd turn mine sideways though, to hide it a bit better. Already spun my stock horn and bracket around 180 so it tucks in behind the radiator instead of hanging out and looking unsightly.

Still does not address the issue of the ECU and error codes. I suppose if adding the Soundbomb mini did not cause you to see the wrench icon warning on the dash, that is a good thing. For only $30 it is not a big risk to take.
 

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Why not just use a mini relay and run it from the OE horn connection.

You can waken the neighbours with 20Amps of truck shiftin' dB.
I'd consider it, but am not sure what parts you are referring to. Have a link to an example of this?
 

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Its just possible that the very low current draw of the relay would also register as a horn fault so I suppose you could leave the original horn in place and wire the relay in parallel with it. Not very good if you want to get rid of it though.
 

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I replaced my T120 stock horn with that Stebel "410Hz Single Electric Horn 12 volt Car MotorBike" horn I sourced on ebay from a company in Australia. I connected it to the original wiring or relay. I thought when we talked about this earlier that someone determined that there was already a relay in the circuit and that one was not needed. I've not had any trouble or warnings from the dash about this (yet).

Space is so much at a premium in the area they tucked the stock horn into, that I had no thoughts of keeping the stock horn with the new one. The new horn is red & black and pretty ugly besides larger and therefor a tighter fit in the stock location - it has not melted or deformed yet though. It is louder, but nothing like dual tone Fiamms found on older BMWs and Guzzis. To mount horns like those, you'd need to find some better place to mount them though, no room in the stock horn location.
 

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Yes, I found that horn thread (searched through all of them) and am familiar with that post. Useful photos for location and size relative to the stock horn, thanks for that.

I think I'd turn mine sideways though, to hide it a bit better. Already spun my stock horn and bracket around 180 so it tucks in behind the radiator instead of hanging out and looking unsightly.

Still does not address the issue of the ECU and error codes. I suppose if adding the Soundbomb mini did not cause you to see the wrench icon warning on the dash, that is a good thing. For only $30 it is not a big risk to take.
Nary a single error code nor wrench icon. I'd like to see photos after you mount it. I couldn't figure out how to hide the Denali, though I don't notice it anymore.
 

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I fitted a sebel single cone horn straight onto the existing loom and mount points with no issues. Had to face in down so it didn't collect water and it is certainly a lot better than the OE. The heat off the pipe hasn't worried it yet. It was an ebay cheapy.
 

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I have seen the OE horn relocated under the headstem. Not sure if a larger aftermarket horn would fit there though



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I have seen the OE horn relocated under the headstem. Not sure if a larger aftermarket horn would fit there though
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Great location! There is not a comparable amount of space on non "R" bikes. One might be able to place the stock peeper on the top radiator mount, not sure. I doubt, that larger and louder horns would fit there though. If one mounted the Renntec engine bars, you could reposition a horn to those bars, I think. Probably truck air horns would fit on those things.
 

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If you want the horn to be heard by others, positioning the horn facing down towards the ground is not the best location in my view. Either facing out toward the side or facing front.
 

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If you want the horn to be heard by others, positioning the horn facing down towards the ground is not the best location in my view. Either facing out toward the side or facing front.
Depends on the horn used. If you use a Denelli soundbomb / Sterbil Nautilus then facing down works perfectly. In fact I've had my Nautilus UNDER the tail piece of my Tiger 800 and it still sounds like an articulated truck horn. Bl**dy loud and effective.
 

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The Stebel TM80 / Magnum is my horn of choice. I've fitted them to several bikes, including a couple of Triumphs, with no problems. It does tick all of the right boxes:
It's plenty loud enough - you don't *need* to sound like a truck.
They're compact enough to bolt straight on using the existing bracket and wiring.
They don't draw much power, so don't need a relay. I used to have a datasheet for them which confirmed this.

You do need to mount them facing down, otherwise rain can get in. I made that mistake on my Speed Triple. It didn't destroy the horn, which worked again after it dried out.

I haven't tried fitting one to my Thruxton R yet. It might require a different bracket, as the OEM horn is very close to the header pipe.

i am using Stebel TM80/2 with a basic relay like the one posted above without any issues so far.
 

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The Stebel TM80 / Magnum is my horn of choice. I've fitted them to several bikes, including a couple of Triumphs, with no problems. It does tick all of the right boxes:
It's plenty loud enough - you don't *need* to sound like a truck.
They're compact enough to bolt straight on using the existing bracket and wiring.
They don't draw much power, so don't need a relay. I used to have a datasheet for them which confirmed this.

You do need to mount them facing down, otherwise rain can get in. I made that mistake on my Speed Triple. It didn't destroy the horn, which worked again after it dried out.

I haven't tried fitting one to my Thruxton R yet. It might require a different bracket, as the OEM horn is very close to the header pipe.
For INR 800 / US$ 12 i can't complain and they get the attention.

A single horn could possibly be mounted at the original spot.

since i am using a set of these (Stebel TM80/2) for lack of options / creativity i have gotten them mounted on the lower bolt used for installing the engine dresser bars. this does send some vibes to the foot-pegs.

current drawn is 4.5 Amp and highest operating temp is 80 Celsius as per the catalogue if i am not mistaken.
 

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update

the horns setup (the relay wired to the OEM horn clips without running a wire from the battery) i was using started giving some trouble after sometime. while it worked okay sometimes at other times just one of the horns would work and sometimes even a single horn wouldn't work properly.

there was an obvious mistake on my part. each of the horns requires about 5+ Amps individually and as i am using a set of these (high tone + low tone) the total current draw required by this setup is 11 Amps+ or so.

Running a wire from the battery to the relay did the trick, the horns work much louder now, even more than the previous setup when it was working properly.

Oh, also running a single horn (current draw 5+ Amps) on the OEM horn wire did not light up the wrench on the dash.
 
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