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Discussion Starter #1
My Street Triple has a lot of movement in the throttle before you engage the fuel. My step-father and I gave it a whirl two weeks ago trying to use the owners manual which simply stated "remove fuel tank, remove air box, adjust cables". We removed the fuel tank with not too much effort but the air-box is where we hit the snag and got cold feet. I would really like to get all the slack out of my throttle. Is there a trick to the air-box removal or a better way to go about it? Or should I just let the dealer do it? We're both mechanically inclinded, but there's a lot of stuff on/around the air-box and I don't want to mess up an expensive bike.

Thanks,
Aaron
 

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Aaron, you may already know this, but minor throttle cable adjustment can be made by separating the little rubber protector just a few inches down the cable from the throttle (right in front of the right handlebar) and and then wrenching the adjustment nuts a bit.

Best,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No, I didn't know that. And I have no clue what you're talking about. I'm not sure if it will take out what is currently there, but it would be better than what it is.

I'll try to verbally depict the travel. If 90 degree's is strait up (and that's 100% full rest for the throttle handle) I’ve got to turn the handle about 25-30 degrees before I actually start to deliver throttle or about 1/2-3/4 of an inch. If I'm going to do a full throttle run I’ve actually got to clock my hand 25-30 degrees advanced from 90 to be able to open to full throttle without changing hand position. And there's no way I can go comfortably from no throttle to full throttle without extreme extension of my wrist which is another extreme bother of mine.

Thanks,
Aaron
 

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Aaron, w/ that much play I would strongly suggest that you stop by you dealer's service department and let them take a quick look at it. I would do that BEFORE messing w/ the inline adjustments. Certainly sounds like a lot of play.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, when I bought the bike it had that much play in it. Upon reading the owners manual, the recommended setting is 1/8 inch play with is considerably less than what I have. When I took the bike in for it's first 500 mile service I made a comment about the amount of play in the throttle. They said it was within spec so I simply left it at that figuring they would know more about it than I would.

Upon trying to tackle this task my self I could see why they would say it's in spec. It seems like a rather big pain in the butt to get in there and do the actual adjustment. Looking to save time and not have to deal with it, which I will bet moeny this is the case; they simply said it's in spec.

So, i'll make a call to the dealership and set up a time to have it adjusted to something more of my likings. I was hoping it would be something easily done and not have to jump through the hoops of messing with the dealer but all well. I simply can't live with that amount of play anymore.

Is there anyway to shorten the closed-to-full throttle distance?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've done it...just a few days ago.

Look for a rubber boot abot 2-3 inches before the grip.

The tank way is a PIA and is rather hard to do.
 

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How to adjust throttle slack

I noticed that my throttle has little too much play, has anybody adjusted their throttle? or is this something I need to go to the dealer for?
 

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i feel like my throttle has way too much play before it engages, makes my grip very comfortable! when i take it in for my 500 mile apt, ill see if batting my eyelashes will get it fixed. haha
 

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i feel like my throttle has way too much play before it engages, makes my grip very comfortable! when i take it in for my 500 mile apt, ill see if batting my eyelashes will get it fixed. haha
Lol! Women! :p

My local Triumph Techie was very emphatic about the free play in the throttle. Apparently the ECU needs some free play to ensure that it sees 0% throttle. 2mm at least according to him.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Don't take all the play out. There needs to be a little bit. I've got mine set to about .04 (about 1mm) of travel.
 

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Throttle Adjustment Comments

I too think the throttle is way to sloppy the way it's set on my Striple. I wound up buying a Street Triple/Daytona 675 Service Manual (3851760 issue 2, from British Customs) to get a better idea of which way is the best and safest way to get this adjusted.

I'd be interested in any feedback from anyone that's got more experience doing this than me (which is anyone that's done it at least once), but here's what I think.

After looking at the manual it seems to me that the best and safest way to deal with this is to remove the tank and airbox and then adjust both the opening cable and the closing cable to the smallest factory setting (or just a little smaller) at the throttle body end of the cable.

The manual says they should both have 2-3 mm of free play. To me is seems like the first goal would be to make sure they both have the same free play so they work together more smoothly. I'm betting part of the problem is some are "tight" on one cable and "loose" on the other.

And, as mentioned in the thread, make sure to turn the handlebar to both stops and confirm the free play so you're sure nothing binds or causes an unplanned rev.

Then, once this is done, put it all back together and test it again, carefully (engine on, neutral, handlebar to both stops) for binding and revs. Assuming everything is ok, you can then use the "minor" throttle adjustment connector located near the throttle grip end to tweak it to your riding preference.

I think that just making the adjustment using the adjustor up top would compound any factory based differences between the two cables that is already locked into the lower adjustment points and just cause more problems.

The manual is also very clear (usual warnings that you'll likely die horribly if you screw this up) that there must be some free play so the ECM can detect the closed throttle position and manage performance properly, and so you don't hit a bump at speed or sneeze and launch yourself...after all, this is a torquey bike.

I'm thinking I'll measure things first and see if the cables are really out of spec or are to different specs, prior to making any adjustments. If they are out of spec I'll set both cables to the 2 mm free play setting at the throttle body end, and see how that feels. If it helps, but still feels sloppy I can try going slightly below spec (maybe 1mm-1.5 mm) and see what that does. I only plan on using the top end adjustment once things are "proper" at the other end.

Any comments on this would be welcomed. I'll post any of the results I get (assume I don't wheely myself into oblivion with to tight a throttle...).
 

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freeplay.

It is quite simple and easy to do, really and by turning the handlebars right and left you're making sure you've not overdone it.
I understand that it is not everybody who are mechanically incline and I respect that.But my main point is: If your dealer has not or will not ajust it properly it SHOULD give you some indsight as to their competency and willingness to serve their customer properly!
You have the right to ask for proper service and you have the possibility to complain to the Company (Triumph Headquarters) for such treatment. While staying polite all the time (it will get you farther than starting to yell rightaway)you can state your point first at the dealership and then go up afterward if not satisfied. I assure you that Triumph, very much want YOU to be happy with your purchase and will get down on the dealer who is not professional/responsible to his/their client.
 

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When I bought my Street Triple last April I thought that the throttle was very twitchy. The issue was a combination of an abrupt jump in the fuelling coming off idle (which I couldn't do anything about) and a weak throttle spring (which makes it harder to feel when you've taken up the slack in the cable). I followed advice and tightened the cable at the handlebars until there was almost no slack in it at all and it seemed to reduce the problem. Now I've just had the bike serviced and I mentioned the snatchy throttle problem to the mechanic and he said he would have a look at it. Really I don't think he did anything except adjust the throttle cable, which is now super sloppy. It has more slop in it now than when the bike was new - I'm guessing I have to turn the throttle grip a good 6 or 7 mm before the cable becomes taut. I decided to leave it like that and see how it went, and to my surprise, having now covered 200 km of twisties since the service, it is much much easier to control the snatchy transition with the looser cable. With the big slop window it's a lot easier to feel the point where the cable tightens than it did when the slop was adjusted out.

Has anyone tried putting a stronger throttle spring in?

arkle
 

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Here is another solution to the snatchy throttle problem. Its an aftermarket throttle tube with a non-linear cam. It takes more movement coming off idle than stock.

G2 Ergonomics

Watch the video clip. Sounds like a decent solution.
 
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