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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been reading old Kevin Cameron articles and I found this one on the debate between Dino and Synthetic very interesting. This was the takeaway.

"Most engine wear takes place in the first minutes after cold-starting, as a result of the time it takes for oil to circulate to all parts. Thus wear prevention is mainly a function of the additive package, and not of the molecular origin of the oil itself."

 

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Hi BMF, Interesting read. I can tell you this. The brand/quality of the oil matters. They are not all the same. Working at 2 automotive dealerships for most of my life, keeping track of wear & warranty records. A "good" oil can double the motor life of a "not good oil". I can tell you this changing from Delo 400 to Pennzoil. Doubled camshaft life in gas cars, tripled it in diesels. Doubled crank bearing life. Those that don't think oil matters are mistaken. For oil Triumphs high zinc is a key component of oil.

Interesting. John's Bonnie has always had oil pressure gauge. He always uses Mobil1 Vtwin 20-50. At the dealerships we found Mobil1 greatly increased motor life. Just saying. Anyway tore down Bonnie to fix oil leaks, was fairly recent purchase. Found loose bushing in left rod. So full tear down & overhaul. On break in used Torco TBO 40w. Oil pressure cold revving was very high almost 100# hot idle below 20. After breaking in used Mobil1 vtwin. Cold revving 80#, Hot idle about 22-23#.
A thought on oil coolers. The oil in most Triumph twins doesn't run hot at all. Often too cold. But the head temperature in exhaust rocker box is smoking hot. Most I've taken apart has baked oil on the alloy. Not easy to remove. I haven't had the long term experience to know how Vtwin oil will react.
Don
 

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Hi Don,
thought on oil coolers
Triumph twins
head temperature in exhaust rocker box is smoking hot. Most I've taken apart has baked oil on the alloy.
Because Triumph twins' pumps don't circulate a sufficient volume of oil for it to be an effective coolant, particularly to the top end; same problem's been highlighted on Notruns on BritBike; probably the same on BSA's. :(

If you read "tridentman" on Britbike or "Richard Beard" on TOL (same guy), he did the cooler development work for both BSA/Triumph for the triples and Norman Hyde for the twins. He's posted the triples' oil pump circulates six or seven times the oil volume of the twins' pump (nearly a gallon a minute vs. a pint a minute ...). Likely the only way to fix that on a twin is a Morgo rotary pump plus several internal engine mods.

Hth.

Regards,
 

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I noticed last week when changing oil to fully synthetic, i had virtually a constant stream of oil right from cold start up. Often, you will see the oil spurt and stop then spurt Using mineral thick oils, there are often bubbles in the returning oil from the return pipe. My engine rarely gets a high temperature and oil gets to about 53C in the tank. After a 50 mile ride i can hold my hand on the engine cases and not too hot for skin contact .I add STP which contains a lot of zinc. Not had any wear in the rockerbox and not changed valves or guides. Tappets rarely need adjusting so just a check at 4000 miles but then, they are usually about right. Virtually no oil burning and no oil leaks at all..
I am using a 4 valve genuine Triumph oil pump which has been in for 30,000 miles so far.
After start up, bike is ready to go and tickover comes in much quicker with the synthetic oil. I now ride off right away without waiting for warming up but ride gently for the first two miles.
Using a 20/50 mineral a few years ago, i inverted the oil seal in the timing cover when i increased engine speed after 1 mile. It was just too thick and i suppose pressure was too high as the thick oil found it hard to get through the crank fast enough.
I did have an oil cooler which was supposed to benefit the engine during slow riding in traffic but have now removed it.
 

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There is no dino oil. Crude oil is the result of old dead forests, not dead dinosaurs. The trees died, but fungi weren't around yet to decompose them, so they just laid there until other trees fell on top of them. Then the accumulating weight started to crush them until they liquefied. That liquid, organic material eventually turned into the nasty sticky, soupy, goopy crude oil we pump out of the ground. We are burning dead trees, not dead dinosaurs. Wait a minute, burning trees is carbon neutral isn't it? Hmmm

Anyway, the main difference between conventional and synthetic, as it matters to us, is the consistency of the size of the molecules. Conventional oil averages out to the weight on the label, but has some bigger and some smaller molecules. Synthetics are far more consistent with the size of the molecules. Really, that's all. In normal street engines, it doesn't matter which you use. Both will provide adequate protection as long as they have the proper ratings. In very high performance, very low tolerance, race only engines, it might matter, but none of us here on this forum have such an engine in any of our bikes.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
😉, I dont think that anyone thinks Dino oil actually comes form Dinosaurs!

But then again the last 5 years have shown us that folks will believe near anything!!!!
 
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