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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning!
I'm the proud owner of a 99 daytona 955i. Ride it every day. 13,500 miles. Today, get home from work and turn the key, flip the switch, (hear the fuel pump prime) and push the start button and click. that's all I get. just the relay click when I push the start button. Checked the battery it's good. The fuel pump is priming, as after trying a couple times I could smell gas. I just don't get it, it started like a champ just last night. dash lights do turn on, checked all fuses. Help?



Levi
 

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1998 T595 Daytona 2014 Kawasaki Ninja1000ABS
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You need to eliminate components that could be causing this issue. You could bypass the relay and see if the starting motor works and cranks the engine and if it starts. How did you test the battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tested battery using my trickle charger, has a test setting. Said it was putting out 12.8 v. Will Try bypassing the relay tonight
 

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Note that is is good forum etiquette to use a more specific subject title than the generic 'help'

Measure the battery voltage with it connected and ignition/lights on - that is more meaningful number. Float charge voltage is not useful guide.
Then, if battery voltage is good under those circumstances, check your clutch switch - see this thread
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
That makes sense, sorry about the subject title. So I got it running, what it ended up being WAS the connection between the clutch-headlight/horn wiring where it plugs into the harness. Figured that out by trying to turn on the headlights as was suggested above to retest the battery, and they wouldn't turn on which didn't make sense. Also found where ground wire was mounted to the chassis, the screw was loose. That would've only been a matter of time I'm sure.

Additional question, would it be a good idea to be using an octane booster or is 92 just fine? Also is ethanol bad for the engine, should I avoid when possible?
Thanks for all the help everyone!
 

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1998 T595 Daytona 2014 Kawasaki Ninja1000ABS
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My manual for the '98 T595 advises 89octane, I've been using the 92, but I've switched to the midgrade to see how the bike runs. Haven't ridden with the new tankful, but in general it's a waste of money to use a higher octane than is recommended by the manufacturer. E0 gas will provide better mpg than E10 because of the energy differences between the ethanol and gasolene, but here in NJ I can't buy nonethanol fuel. The ethanol will not hurt the engine, it's specified in the manual, at least for E10.
 

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The 'subject' thing wasn't meant to be a chastisement, just advice going forward.

Ethanol won't hurt the engine, but it WILL wreak havoc with the plastic tank.

89 is what is recommended, booster not necessary
89 actually burns better than higher octane - the reason higher octanes are used are to prevent detonation - i.e. they are MORE difficult to burn
So unless there is a detonation (pinging) issue, there is no need - and detriment - by going higher

Also found where ground wire was mounted to the chassis, the screw was loose.
What do you mean, where mounted to "chassis" ?? - there should be no connection to the frame anywhere - the ground return scheme is all through the wiring system to the battery negative - the only attachment other than the ground distribution wiring is the main engine ground. There is NO current that flows through the frame and there are no electrical components that use the frame as grounding point.
 

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You need to eliminate components that could be causing this issue. You could bypass the relay and see if the starting motor works and cranks the engine and if it starts. How did you test the battery?
Dumb question....I still haven't figured out my electrical and started the bike. How do you bypass the relay?
It's really tight in there for a ham handed guy like me to get to anything near the rear shock.

Also I still don't have headlights coming on so I'll verify the connector at the ignition switch. Key doesn't twist and actuate the fork lock so I'm also concerned about the sketchy switch too.

I'm taking my time and decided to stop being impatient with this bike as I have so many other events in my life right now but I'd love to be able to ride my Triumph to work. I haven't seen another Daytona 955i yet.....
 

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Dumb question....I still haven't figured out my electrical and started the bike. How do you bypass the relay?
It's really tight in there for a ham handed guy like me to get to anything near the rear shock.

Also I still don't have headlights coming on so I'll verify the connector at the ignition switch. Key doesn't twist and actuate the fork lock so I'm also concerned about the sketchy switch too.

I'm taking my time and decided to stop being impatient with this bike as I have so many other events in my life right now but I'd love to be able to ride my Triumph to work. I haven't seen another Daytona 955i yet.....
By jumping I meant to run a jumper cable from either a car battery, car engine not running, or the bike's battery pos terminal directly to the starting motor lug. This would eliminate the starting motor as a potential culprit for the OP.
 

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By jumping I meant to run a jumper cable from either a car battery, car engine not running, or the bike's battery pos terminal directly to the starting motor lug. This would eliminate the starting motor as a potential culprit for the OP.
Thank you very much. Much appreciated.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good to know on the ground wire issue, looks like a prior owner or mechanic didn't know what they were doing. It was a separate wire going from the batt ground to the frame. I have now disconnected it and of course everything still works just fine. Thanks for the info on the fuel octane!
 
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