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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've searched the forum with no luck on this one. I have a broken wire in the ignition switch. The white wire were it exits the bottom of the switch. I have removed the switch and separated the top and bottom.
My question is can the bottom section of the switch be opened?
As the break is just inside the bottom section I cann't get at it to join the wire. I need the bike this weekend coming up so I will ring to see what a new one will cost and the availablity. Can you buy just the bottom section or do you have to buy the complete unit?

Grateful for any ideas.

Thanks
 

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Allen55,
I've never had my switch apart, but I have heard of people having to solder a broken wire on the switch.
I took a look at Bike Bandit, and it looks like Triumph used the same ignition switch for all the years of 955 Sprints, both ST and RS. It looks like it's only available as a complete switch with keys.

It might be handy if you put your year and model of Sprint in your profile so we have a little more to go on.

Hope you get it sorted before your trip....
 

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I don't mean to be rude, but searching should turn up quite a bit of info on this. It's happened to a few people, and at least a couple have documented the fix rather extensively.

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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Yah. Like my 'most excellent' post on the topic...

The switch will run you roughly $250, IIRC. If you are really good with a soldering iron, and the wire broke where I suspect it did, you can repair it.

If you can repair it, make sure you put a strain relief on the harness to keep it from happening again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the help. I'll give more thought to my search wording in the future. I'll try the repair and see how I go.
Thanks
 

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Good luck, let us know how it works out!

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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You seem to be eating a LOT of popcorn today, OnD, watch your ( bad) cholesterol, man......... :)
 

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CharlieS, the title doesn't help the Search effort.

Here is the post: http://www.triumphrat.net/sprint-forum/113774-the-ghost-of-lucas.html

The repair took two tries. The first repair attempt, my buddy simply re-soldered the ends of the broken wire. It broke again about two months later, right above the repair.

So, he went back in and took out the last 4 inches of the white wire, from the switch terminal out, and replaced it with new, and covered the last two inches with heat-shrink tubing to further strengthen it.

I've now got the harness zip-tied to the body of the switch housing, so it doesn't 'work' around the hole in the bottom.
 

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On a related note, it has been pointed out in another thread that we often diminish the value of our posts by using cutesy titles, which then makes them impossible to find with a search.

I also had the habit of trying to use entertaining titles until I could not find one of my older posts using our trusty search function. After locating the tread the hard way, it was apparent that it could never be found due to my choice of title.

Bottom line, we would help all by using factual titles when posting technical advice. But, being a fanatic is no fun, so cutesy could work so long as a pertinent key word is included in the title.:D
 

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I agree completely, OnD. I found it by a keyword search. Awkward.

However, I'm thinking that Every Single Thing (Thank you, Ed McMahon!) there is to discuss has already been posted (at least once); so we don't need to worry about 'New' titles.

;)

Well, maybe not so for the GT.

Nobody has asked about oil or grease for them yet. Or have they?
 

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Allan55,
I had the same problem a couple of weeks ago. A wire came off the socket inside the switch. I had to remove the top yoke to get access to the switch and its quite easy to remove the bottom bottom of the switch to get access to the wiring.
Be careful, if you are resoldering the wire back on its socket/post as too much heat will melt the plastic base - you could yourself into a pickle if that happens.

I have replaced the security screws with normal stainless steel ones in case I need to get access to the switch when am out on the road.

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The sprint is back running. I removed the switch. With a long allen key you can remove the switch without removing the top yoke. The top yoke is frozen on so I will need to spend time later freeing it up. I cut slots in the security screws to remove them and replaced them with phillips head screws. After removing the bottom of the switch I soldered the wires together using an alligator clip as a heat sink (don't know how effective it was but the plastic did not melt).
I'm not happy with the way I've routed the wires to the connector and may redo it. It is a bugger of a postion above the bracket with the clutch cable interferring. The wires presently go to the left of the bracket so may change to the right and see hoe it goes.
 

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Way to go on your soldering job, Allan. Just think, 4 days ago, you didn't know what you were going to do, and now you went and fixed it yourself.
Well done.
 

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Glad I found this thread. Just saved me over $200 for a new switch. Popped it open, sodered the yellow wire back in place and headed for the western Carolina mountains to blow off a little steam and abuse my tires. ;-)


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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As long as this thread has popped back up...

My ignition switch began acting up again six months or so after I soldered it, so I proceeded to take it apart to see if I could fix it. Turned out the soldering job I had done was not the problem; the switch had just plain worn out after being used so much!

Someone had given me a mildly dysfunctional switch from a 1050, and I was happy to note that it was interchangeable with my 955. After patching up a couple of wires, I swapped my lock cylinder into the 1050 housing and installed the resulting assembly on my bike. It's been working fine since. :D

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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I am glad this thread popped up again as well. I think mine has given me a couple of "mild" warnings in the last couple of months and I started looking for 955 ignition just in case but with no luck.
I can start now looking for 1050 instead !

Kit.. thanks for sharing this

Cheers
stavrich
 

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I'll try to get some pics up at some point, but I'm working 7 days a week until the 15th, when I pull my motor to do valve stem seals, so I may be a bit flaky for a while...

Cheers,
-Kit
 
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