[dan151]

Resurrecting a 2002 Speed Triple 955i following a long period of hibernation and neglect under previous ownership. Bike is now running and riding, starts with no issue, but suffers two running conditions that I am seeking some assistance with.

1. Engine idles at 1,600 - 1,700 RPMs at operating temperature.
2. Engine stalls following clutch engagement when coasting in gear.

Relevant bike information:
-Sagem ECU
-Lambda/O2 Sensor
-TORS Exhaust
-Map #10158

Relevant maintenance/repairs:
-Throttle bodies have been cleaned and synchronized using a Carbtune manometer
-Throttle position sensor has been reset with TuneECU and voltage appears in spec.
-Throttle cables have been adjusted so that throttle body valves close quickly and smoothly.
-IACV stepper motor was disassembled, cleaned and lightly lubricated.
-IACV vacuum lines were replaced with 6mm silicon lines, ensuring the blank port was not utilized.
-Reset adaptation following TuneECU guide for Sagem/Lambda models: neutral, clutch engaged, coolant temperature 80 - 100 °C, airbox temperature 21°C minimum, engine idling for 10 - 30 seconds
-Uniformly backed out each of the synchronized throttle body air bleed/bypass screws until IACV stepper position reached 35/36.

On the last step noted above, the idle began to increase more so I stopped adjusting as the screws were backed out quite a bit and the IACV stepper motor position had reached the upper value of the recommended range (30-35) at idle.

As both conditions remain, where would you recommend I look next?
As a side note, Target Idle Speed only seems to reflect a value on the list every 3rd or 4th time TuneECU is connected.


TuneECU via Amazon Fire HD 10 (Android) tablet:

 

[RampantParanoia]

When it does display a target idle speed does it match the engine speed or are they different?

Sounds to me like you have a vacuum leak, maybe the O rings on the throttle body to head rubbers have perished and are leaking slightly?

Also, your battery voltage is 12.7v with the engine running, you need to investigate your charging system pronto as it should be closer to 14.4v when running.

 

[dan151]

When it does display a target idle speed does it match the engine speed or are they different?

Sounds to me like you have a vacuum leak, maybe the O rings on the throttle body to head rubbers have perished and are leaking slightly?

Also, your battery voltage is 12.7v with the engine running, you need to investigate your charging system pronto as it should be closer to 14.4v when running.

At operating temperature the target idle speed, when it appears on the TuneECU list, is usually 1,250 rpm which correlates with the current map but it cannot reach it.

I did not remove the intake boots when the throttle bodies were off so you may be on to something, I will inspect or replace them and report back.

Regarding the battery voltage, the bike has a new Yuasa battery and had been sitting prior with power on for an extended period while I was reading through the map and settings in TuneECU. I will test the stator output as well just to be safe.

 

[Felony]

The battery should be connected to a charger while using TuneECU. You could have a TB gasket leak.

 

[RampantParanoia]

If it can't reach the target idle I'd put money on you having a vacuum leak somewhere. I know you've been over all the hoses etc but double check them, check the intake boot O rings, check the intake boots are tightened down onto the throttle bodies, check the IACV body isn't cracked, IACV O ring is in good condition, IACV/airbox gasket is present etc. Maybe spray some brake cleaner around the intake when the engine is running to see if the idle changes, maybe that'll help you find where the leak is.

Battery voltage pre-start shouldn't affect the voltage when the engine is running, your charging system is not healthy. This thread guides you through the diagnostics you'll need to do and what you can do to fix it

 

[Sacksofphones]

I've also experience the idle drop on clutch pull. What worked for me (03 Sprint ST - Same Sagem ECU) is the proper adaptation after loading map (assuming no vac leaks, etc).

• Start bike cold (don't touch throttle)
• Let warm up until the fan comes on (10+ minutes)
• Let run another 10 seconds with fan on.
• turn off bike (with key)
• Wait 30 seconds
• Start bike
• Adaptation done

What I've found is that over time, when starting bike and taking off after just a couple minutes (or less) of warmup, the bike may adapt and give a low idle. Every so often I'll do the above adaption and I find it smooths things out.

 

[dan151]

I pulled the throttle body and intake boots yesterday, all three o-rings were in good shape. I applied some light RTV Silicon on the mating surfaces as reassurance. I double checked the IACV, the o-ring was a bit perished so I replaced it. Following reassembly, I turned the air bleeders back in a few turns while monitoring idle and it settled back down to +/- 1250rpm with the step count down to 34. I reloaded the 10158 map and performed the exact procedure for adaptation as described above by Sacksofphones
Last effort was spraying starting fluid on and around each intake and the IACV valve with no change in idle.

The stalling issue remains unfortunately. Any suggestions where to look next?

 

[dan151]

On a whim, I tried reprogramming with map #10156 (stock silencer, no secondary air injection) and the stalling issue appears to have resolved! The bike overall actually seems to run much smoother, with a nice clean steady idle. I just wen't out on a 30 mile ride with numerous clutch in/coasting and the RPMs never dropped below idle. No popping on deceleration with the TORS silencer either. I am planning to just leave this tune on the bike.

Tested the charging system as well following the thread shared by RampantParanoia and voltage was within the appropriate range under all three stated conditions. It does not appear that the voltage regulator wire harness/fuse modification has been performed on this bike.