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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The other day I saw a guy with a similar bike to mine.

He said he had bought a kit from new to put the standard clip ons on top of the top yoke (triple tree).

I dunno about this kit, I enquired, if there ever was one, there isnt now.

Has anyone done this? I badly need to lift the riding position.

It seems that it will just clear the fairing.

If you have done this did you turn the bars over, ie. left on right, right on left.

Heres hoping that this is a regular mod :)
 

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There were definitely a couple of kits available for putting (industry-)standard 7/8" bars on, but I've never heard of a kit for putting (Triumph-)standard clip-ons above the yokes. (Of course, that could just mean that I've never heard of it...) I'm also not real familiar with the clip-ons.

Have a look at your top yoke; there may be capped-off bolt holes for Sprint/Trident/Trophy bars to screw into.

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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Don't have access to a manual so might be a little off on years, 93 and 94 Daytonas had longer fork tubes so normal position was with approx 1" of pull through on the yokes. Later Daytona position is flush with the top of the yoke. It is possible to mount the clipons above the yoke on the early years. I tried it on mine but didn't find it enough of a change so took a set of 02 955 clipons, made a sleeve and used them. They are close to contact with the fairing but can be set to clear. It worked quite well, I would say possibly slightly better than the Helibars I have on my 99 SE.
Basically any 43mm clipon will clamp to the forks and any 7/8 bar will work with the stock controls so Ebay will give you some inexpensive configuration options.
 

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hello there
I used to fit a lot of clip ons to the daytonas when i worked at the dealers and I have a set of the original Pro Italia Billet Machined clip ons for above the triple tree in anodized black,they are a very nice bit of high quality kit and pretty rare too!! if you are interested you can pm me or email me

http://www.adepackett.com/New_and_Used_Parts.html

i dont think they are on there but there is a set for a t509 and they are similar

thanks a lot

adrian
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
DONE IT!!!...

Who'd a thought it possible! I was certain that the bars would completely foul the fairing, at full lock they just touch it, just, to do full lock turns you just have to move your hands out to the edge of the bars.

SO SO SO much more comfortable.

The riding position and even view over the tank now reminds me of late 80's early 90's Kawasaki sports bikes. Super comfy for long distances.

No need to remove the fairing. Just the brakes, the front wheel the mudguard, loosen the forks drop them..move the bars...but it all back together.
Making sure you turn the clutch and brake lines facing down to get the required length.

Now time to soften the suspension.
 

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When you say "set to clear" what do you mean by that?

thanks in advance :)
See you've got it done so I'm sure you figured it out, just meant you need to adjust the master cylinder angle on the bars and the bars on the tubes so the fairing and tank clear at full lock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah.

I figured that thanks. I just thought best to do and get on with it and work out all the problems as they occured and not to be so scared of breaking it. :) ..

I had to bleed the clutch thanks to the tag on the mastercylinder forcing me to undo it so much to turn it downward. On the brake I had no problem cracking off and turning it downward.

I need to move the bars a bit as full lock to the left contacts the fairing a tiny bit. Nothing worth worrying about..

Do you think its OK lowering the front by sliding the forks up into the top yokes so that they are flush with the bar clamps?

They are currently inset 5mm.

As I am not Kenny Roberts, I cant so how it would effect the handling that much :)
 
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