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Discussion Starter #1
First post little background. Mechanic on airplanes for a living ride and tinker on old bikes for fun. Have a couple old yamahas in various states. Two RDs and Ty175 trials. Daily ride a 16' Tiger.
I just picked up my first old Bonneville the other day. Trying to make use of all this home time trying to go through it and get it running. I've searched an searched came up with nothing. I'm going through the wiring before I hook a battery to it. I cleaned up the wiring to the boyer ignition. It doesn't have any right-hand switches looks to be jumped in the headlight. I split some of the loom where it looked like there were splices and cleaned them up. I could just be having a moment but when I'm ringing out the wires I'm getting continuity through the positive battery lead to the frame. With the ignition off its fine no continuity but in the two clockwise positions I'm getting continuity through the frame. That's not right is it? I disconnected all the connections at the ignition switch but the Brown/Blue trying to see if there's a short in the other wires but still the same. I rewired my old RD but I trashed the old harness and built one with an M-Unit. Any help is appreciated and I apologize if this has been discussed or if I'm just being an idiot.
Been all over this site before I joined getting answers. You guys have already helped a ton.


Thanks,
Luke
 

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Hi Luke,

Firstly, welcome to Classic, Vintage & Veteran.:) I've moved this to the main CVV Forum (whoever moved it previously dropped it in the Vintage Technical Tips & Tricks sub-forum, which is for posting 'em, not asking for 'em ;)).

old Bonneville
trying to go through it and get it running.
going through the wiring before I hook a battery
boyer ignition. It doesn't have any right-hand switches looks to be jumped in the headlight.
looked like there were splices and cleaned them up. I could just be having a moment but when I'm ringing out the wires I'm getting continuity through the positive battery lead to the frame.
not right is it?
Mmmm ... depends ... prior to the '79 model year bikes, Triumphs were/are 'positive ground' so "continuity through the positive battery lead to the frame" would be normal. However, not on a true '79 or later Triumph.

Regrettably, sounding like the electrics on your bike have been well-and-truly mullered by a DPO ... ?

The engine VIN is located on the left-hand side (looking forward) of the crankcase just under the cylinder block. It should consist of a model code ("T140E"?) and another two letters (the date code) followed by five figures. If you would confirm:-

. model code, date code letters and at least the two of the following figures;

. either the same model code, date code and five figures are stamped on the left-hand side of the frame just ahead of the fuel tank;

. or, if they're different, what they are;

. we can tell what you're working with and give you the correct advice. (y)

Any photos. of what you're working with would also be useful.

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My mistake I didn't scroll down far enough.

Stuart from my limited old triumph experience as far as I can tell it negative ground. I attached two pics one of the crankcase the other of some of the wires. It looks correct. Brown/Blue hot and Black neutral.
As far as the stampings go they're both the same T140E NA 13433.

Thank you for the help guys.




721838



721837
 

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Your bike was made in November 78 as a 79 model
It's one month older than mine.

It should have started life with rita ignition, negative earth, mk2 carbs and a neutral light.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think your right. It came with two sets of Mk2 carbs and the points plate it's got the Boyer Mk3 fitted in it now and I can see the neutral light wires behind the kickstart cover. Thanks for the info Dave much appreciated
 
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