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I think this is the first 765 I've seen with clipons and it looks like you have space for everything including the control cables. I'm probably not going to do that myself but its interesting to see problems get solved and I'll bet other riders find this usefull.


As a general tip for anyone reading and thinking about a clipon conversion, you don’t need to take the route I did.

I don’t work for Motodemic or anything like that, but they have a headlight conversion kit under way for the 765. That means you could make the conversion more permanent with a new headlight that would enable mounting clipons as well.
 

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Congratulations on the new bike BKK Jack. We have a couple of them in the track club I belong too and they are fast with a good rider on board.
And...there's the difference! ;)

It's plenty fast enough, just not as smooth as the Street. I also need a couple more shifts per lap, but I'll get used to it. The best part is that once I get home, I can park it in the corner of the garage and hop on the Triumph the next day with no wrenching.

I almost forgot to mention, if anyone wants to take a stab at a set of Woodcraft clip-ons (3 1/2" rise), I could be persuaded into letting them go for a decent price.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
And...there's the difference! ;)

It's plenty fast enough, just not as smooth as the Street. I also need a couple more shifts per lap, but I'll get used to it. The best part is that once I get home, I can park it in the corner of the garage and hop on the Triumph the next day with no wrenching.
Tire management seems like a huge benefit of having dedicated bikes, you can run race tires on the track bike without compromising them on the street bike. I had a spare set of wheels with race tires for my 990Super Duke which was OK but not as easy as having a whole bike spare bike ::D
 

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Tire management seems like a huge benefit of having dedicated bikes, you can run race tires on the track bike without compromising them on the street bike. I had a spare set of wheels with race tires for my 990Super Duke which was OK but not as easy as having a whole bike spare bike ::D


Well, as it is right now I’m using the Street Triple as my track-bike. Have a Hypermotard that is intended for road use. Today I’m fitting race tires on the triple. Agree a separate bike is the way to go if you are a track-day junkie.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Gradually worked my way around to the idea of fitting clipons to my 765RS which is currently track only. Perhaps I should have started off with a different bike but I like the 765RS and will one day return it to street spec.

My plan is to buy the gauge cluster mounting equipment from Motodemic as suggested by Dr.Pepper but I'm unsure if a suitable clipons are available?

The problem is that the area on the fork where the clipon clamp would fit is only 20mm from top-to-bottom (the fork leg is tapered below this) and all of the clamps I've seen on clipons are deeper than this. A 35mm deep clamp would fit but I don't like the idea of 15mm being unsupported. Can anyone suggest a brand that might fit??

 

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Gradually worked my way around to the idea of fitting clipons to my 765RS which is currently track only. Perhaps I should have started off with a different bike but I like the 765RS and will one day return it to street spec.



My plan is to buy the gauge cluster mounting equipment from Motodemic as suggested by Dr.Pepper but I'm unsure if a suitable clipons are available?



The problem is that the area on the fork where the clipon clamp would fit is only 20mm from top-to-bottom (the fork leg is tapered below this) and all of the clamps I've seen on clipons are deeper than this. A 35mm deep clamp would fit but I don't like the idea of 15mm being unsupported. Can anyone suggest a brand that might fit??





I had clipons mounted on mine, and they worked really well. Came to the conclusion I wanted a track-prepared Yamaha R1, and sold my Street Triple.

I do however still have the clip-ons in my garage if you want them? They are pre-drilled for the plastic clip fasteners as well as clutch side grip. Make: Gilles Tooling.

As you can see I still have my homemade TFT display mount. It works really well even if it looks like... s***t.. :) No need for it anymore, so I'll throw that in as well if you want the clip-ons.
 

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I was also uncomfortable with this on my 2013. I was able to drop the forks a couple millimeters just to make me feel better, and mounted Woodcraft clip-ons. I'm a bit older, and wasn't looking to drop the grips too much, but wanted my grips at an angle more conducive to better body position. Based on some info posted by Motodemic, I got their 3 1/2" rise ones. With Daytona rearsets they were pretty much perfect for me. IMO, unless you've moved your brake and shift pedals back to your passenger pegs, or can scratch your knees without bending over, using 0 rise clip-ons might prove to be worse than the stock bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I had clipons mounted on mine, and they worked really well. Came to the conclusion I wanted a track-prepared Yamaha R1, and sold my Street Triple.

I do however still have the clip-ons in my garage if you want them? They are pre-drilled for the plastic clip fasteners as well as clutch side grip. Make: Gilles Tooling.

As you can see I still have my homemade TFT display mount. It works really well even if it looks like... s***t.. :) No need for it anymore, so I'll throw that in as well if you want the clip-ons.
Thanks Dr. P. I'm definitely interested.

I'd appreciate it if you would measure the height of the clamp so that I can know how much contact there will be between the camp and the fork, and send me a PM with how much you would like for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I was also uncomfortable with this on my 2013. I was able to drop the forks a couple millimeters just to make me feel better, and mounted Woodcraft clip-ons. I'm a bit older, and wasn't looking to drop the grips too much, but wanted my grips at an angle more conducive to better body position. Based on some info posted by Motodemic, I got their 3 1/2" rise ones. With Daytona rearsets they were pretty much perfect for me. IMO, unless you've moved your brake and shift pedals back to your passenger pegs, or can scratch your knees without bending over, using 0 rise clip-ons might prove to be worse than the stock bar.
I'm also a bit ancient:wink2:

My bike is track only at the moment and I thought I would get along with the standard bars. Its certainly viable this way as a track bike, but where I ride there are a lot of bumps and undulations and the bars flap a lot if I hit a bump on hard acceleration. I can control this by leaning right over the front end, but I think clipon's might be better.

I fitted Woodcraft rearsets adjusted to 1" back and 1" higher and a heavier rear spring for my 180lbs with leathers. This improved stability and keeps my toes off the ground although I wouldn't have fitted either if I was using it as a street bike or even half and half. The 765RS has different forks to the 2013 (which I also owned), and the Woodcraft riser clipons that Motodemic sells won't fit the Showa Big Piston forks on the new bike.

The 765RS is a step up in performance over the 2013, but in my opinion, its not a lot and mostly in the quality of the suspension and front brake. You have a hell of a bike there :nod:
 

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Have you tried low bars or drag bars, aka zero rise instead of the clip on route? Might be easier to do on this bike.
 

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Thanks Dr. P. I'm definitely interested.



I'd appreciate it if you would measure the height of the clamp so that I can know how much contact there will be between the camp and the fork, and send me a PM with how much you would like for them.


I’ll start by sending you the measurement. It has about 28mm of mating surface, and I had roughly 20mm on the fork before it tapered off.

When fitted they were rock solid.

 

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Morning guys!

How's the Water Wetter working out for your bike? I want to put that in so I can go for track days here in CA. Can you just leave it in there for daily riding?

;-)

What brand is your Water Wetter?
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I use Redline Super Cool with Waterwetter on my 765RS which was broken in using this coolant. It now has 441 track miles on it air temperatures as low as 50F but more often 90F+ with no cooling or issues of any other kind that I am aware of. This is one person's experience and not much data, but its all I have.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I'd expected by now to be giving you an update on my experience of riding my bike with the Gilles clip-on bars kindly sold to me by Dr. Pepper. I still intend to fit clip-on's but the need for new tires distracted me and I thought an update about that might be interesting.

So..........my 765RS is track-only with Woodcraft rear-sets and standard bars, a stiffer rear spring and adjusted suspension. After 327 road miles and 623 track miles (total 950) the rear Supercorsa SPv2 which came on the bike was worn beyond the wear indicators on side of the rear tire and close to them on the front. I had not detected any loss in traction but the rear was only one session away from failure so I decided to change them.

I was pretty impressed with the original tires but getting a bit quicker and considered going to Supercorsa SC's and possibly a 180x60 aspect ratio rear. Not wanting to change too many things at once and in view of the fact that we are coming into the cooler weather now (I don't use tire warmers), I decided instead to try the 180x60 but stay with SP's and move to the new SPv3 if they were available. The 180 SPv3 is not available in the US yet so I chose a 180x60 SP v2 rear and a 70x120 SP v3 front, which is available.

You might think that a 180x60 tire would be the same width as a 180x55 but this is not the case, it's actually wider as well as taller. The extra width reduces the clearance between the side of the tire and the chain to about 12mm and the top of the tire and the underside of the rear mudguard to 12mm. Two track-days later, I see no signs of contact.

The effect on the steering and handling is all positive for me on the track. I don't notice the slight rise in gearing caused by the larger diameter rear tire. Stability is about the same, but rear grip is noticeably better. I thought the more "peaky" profile would sharpen turn-in a lot, it does change it, but the difference is subtle. The big difference is resistance to lean once the bike is cranked over quite a long way. Its far easier to get those last few degrees of lean out of the bike. We have to remember that I also changed to the SPv"3" on the front and this could have influenced this but I believe what I was experiencing was mostly the effect of the taller rear tire.

New tires always feel great but even accounting for this, I'm really impressed with the new 120x70 SPv3 on the front. Running the same hot pressure 30-31psi the new tire has great stability under braking and noticeably better grip in the corner. I will definitely consider changing to a 180x60 SPv3 when they become available.

The other distraction from my clip-on project was a steering damper.

First the disclaimer; I really don't think the 765RS would get any benefit from a steering damper if used on the street! Mine is used on a very bumpy track however, and the bars do flap around under hard acceleration over bumps and in fast bumpy transitions between corners which cause me to have to push myself right over the standard upright bars to control it.

The opportunity to try one came from a friend at the track who had removed the GPR damper from his 2016 Street Triple-R and who was convinced it might fit my 2018 RS. He brought it to the track and to cut a long story short, it appears to be a perfect drop-in fit on my RS. It took him 15 minutes to fit it and after setting it to level-10 which is about half way through the range, I gave it a try.

I'll have to say that I'm very impressed. The bike is way more stable everywhere on the track and a lot easier to ride. I bought it off hime and won't ride the bike at the track without it in the future.

Rear 180x60 tire vertical clearance.


Rear 180x60 tire side clearance. Terrible photo, but there really is 12m clearance :)


GPR steering damper and brackets from a 2016 ST-R




 

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That seems odd. My limited knowledge of tires is that 180 is the width, and the 55 or 60 is the sidewall height expressed as a percentage of the width. Either my "theory" is wrong, or theory and practice can be very different indeed.

:dunno
 

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Discussion Starter #58
That seems odd. My limited knowledge of tires is that 180 is the width, and the 55 or 60 is the sidewall height expressed as a percentage of the width. Either my "theory" is wrong, or theory and practice can be very different indeed.

:dunno
Seemed very odd to me when I first heard it too. Like you I thought that 180/55 meant the tire is 180mm wide and the height was 55% of that, ie, 99mm. In the case of a a 180/60 that would be 180mm wide and 60% of the width, ie, 108m tall. This would make a 180/60% aspect ratio tire 9mm taller than a 180/55% aspect ratio (108-99mm=9m), but this isn't true either unless these measurements represent something completely different like the measured dimensions before the tire is fitted?

I've only measured this using Pirelli tires on my bike, but have it confirmed by other riders of other bikes who have changed rear tire aspect ratio. I'd like to hear a good explanation for this if anyone knows what aspect ratios such as 180/55 really mean?
 

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The theory is correct, it just doesn't translate perfectly in practice.

My other bike came with a 180/60, which was only available in Pirelli's top 2 hypersport tires at the time. I wanted more mileage than a Rosso Corsa or Supercorsa, so I began to try other sizes.

In my experience, Pirelli's 180/60 is dimensionally similar to other brands' 190/55. At least close enough to keep my TC happy. I tried a 180/55 first and it was horrible on that bike.
 
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