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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Still trying to get this T140V straightened out.

It all started with a clutch that I could not adjust from the handlebar and the nut on the gear box. All the way up and down the clutch was either creeping or not catching at all.
So when we pulled the primary cover off and removed every thing down to the clutch basket or chain wheel drum. There we see two of the twenty rollers turned sideways!
Further inspection showed the thrust washer was lifted a bit from the drum.
So, we replaced the drum with a used part – in good condition new rollers and re assembled.
Now when the bike is in neutral I can move it about like a bicycle, Nice change !
The problem is that after a short ride – about 10 miles, the clutch goes back to the hard to find neutral and stalling out at stops. After sitting for about 20 minuets or so, it is back to easy to find neutral and the clutch works properly again.

Something to do with the heat ? I did double check the oil in the case and the primary chain seems to be tensioned properly.
Any help is greatly appreciated . this looks like my last hurdle to a trustworthy classic.
 

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Dave, I had a similar problem with my 68 T120. When cold, the clutch worked fine, when it got hot, I could barely pull the clutch in. I had just rebuilt the clutch with new basket, plates, and rollers. It was properly adjusted. I surmised the cable was binding so I swapped out the cable with a NOS cable I had in the shed. The clutch would still bind when hot. I tried lubing the cable with various types of cable lubes and chain lubes. Some performed better than others but all eventually would start to bind when hot. I had some FEL-PRO high temp C5-A anti-seize paste in my garage so figured "what the h*ll". I worked some in from both ends and forced it through with a shot of chain lube with my pressure luber. The clutch has performed flawlessly since. Two fingers is all I need to pull it in and it disengages and engages properly hot or cold. I've heard there are more modern cables with teflon around the center cable that don't require lube available that fit these old relics but since I found the anti-seize solution, I haven't followed up on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Jimmy Bush. I rerouted the clutch cable in a wide arc, as far away from the engine as possable. This may have helped some as it seems like I am now getting about 15 miles before the clutch binds enough to stall the bike at low rpm.

I pulled off the inspection plug and watched the pressure plate operate in good fashion.
I can't guess where to start. I am reluctant to pull the clutch again.
Any fresh ideas?
Thanks !
 

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your clutch is dragging when it gets hot. you need to make sure you have it adjusted properly at the plate.

loosen the clutch cable at the lever and where it meets the transmission cover plate on the right side, more or less completely.

remove the clutch adjustment plug on the primary cover.

loosen the clutch adjustment nut and 'bolt' in the center, make sure that they are not binding together.

turn the 'bolt' in until it meets resistance. make sure that the nut has not bottomed out. (this is important. ask me how i know.)

then unscrew the center 'bolt' 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. the manual says 1 full turn. do what you feel is best.

hold the center 'bolt' and tighten the nut to lock it in place.

replace clutch adjustment plug.

tighten clutch cable adjusters at the lever and transmission until there is 1/8" play at the clutch lever at its fulcrum.

done.

also, try to get it into neutral while it is still rolling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I went through the clutch adjustment as you suggested nynor, thanks for the reply. < I have done this routine too many times in the last couple of weeks!.
But still the same behavior as detailed above. Is this un heard of ? I cant seem to go more than 20 miles without the clutch binding to the point of stalling at low rpm. And just as mentioned above when it cools its fine again. I am sure the cabel is free and not heating up, and adjusted properly.

I am getting close to putting this mare down, :mad: not really but nearly.
 

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Hi DaveDone,
Did you cut your own clutch pushrod?
If you did , did you then heat the ends to" cherry red" heat then quench in oil?
If you did not heat the ends the rod stays soft and will mushroom usually on the kickstart side on the "oak leaf" lifter. So if you have the clutch pressure plate off try to pull out the rod, If it doesn't the problem is soft ends :mad: you will have to pull the rod out of the other side and fit a new one.
Only ever use a proper high carbon push rod.
 

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You may need to confirm that clutch pressure plate lifts evenly

Your account of reassembling the clutch after finding mis-aligned rollers does not state whether you had adjusted the tension of each of the three spring keepers so that the pressure plate lifted evenly. I have found that careful adjustment results in more positive clutch action (no unwanted slipping or dragging) and a clutch that does not require "breaking the plates free" before a cold start to avoid grinding when shifting into 1st gear, even after 2 months parked.*

My method:
(1) After removing the primary cover, screw one of the bolts partway in and wind a piece of coat hanger wire around it. Bend the wire around and position its end so that it almost touches the flat outside portion of the pressure plate. (2) To keep the the pressure plate lifted, pull the clutch lever and wrap a cable tie or ? around the lever and grip. Put the trans in top gear and turn the rear wheel to rotate the pressure plate. (3) Adjust the spring keepers so that the runout of the pressure plate is as even as possible. A small bright lamp shining on the gap between wire end and plate will help. (4) To avoid possible settling of the springs, I minimize the time that the clutch lever is held pulled.

*I use 20W50 in the primary ('69 650, doesn't have crankcase venting through primary), adjust the primary chain to 0.375 " slack, and set the pressure plate lift screw to 1/2 turn ccw from zero clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I just got back from a little ride this evening. The same scenario played out.
When I rolled the bike out of the shed al was well, first kick start as usual. About 10 miles of gentle cruising, some power twisty, and the engine stalled due to drag. I sat for about 20 minuets and all was well.
Blue09SE, the clutch basket and rollers were replaced by an experienced Triumph mechanic. The pressure plate, clutch springs and clutch push rod was re installed correctly and inspected. I hope.
The reason I am writing this again is I am wondering that it may not be the clutch or the various components causing this problem?
At any rate I am going to get a primary cover gasket and tear it down for a look around, as my funds have run out for the “real mechanics”
If any one can post some thoughts or suggestions I would be grateful.
 

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forget the gasket and seal it with grey permatex. my .02 ....

I just got back from a little ride this evening. The same scenario played out.
When I rolled the bike out of the shed al was well, first kick start as usual. About 10 miles of gentle cruising, some power twisty, and the engine stalled due to drag. I sat for about 20 minuets and all was well.
Blue09SE, the clutch basket and rollers were replaced by an experienced Triumph mechanic. The pressure plate, clutch springs and clutch push rod was re installed correctly and inspected. I hope.
The reason I am writing this again is I am wondering that it may not be the clutch or the various components causing this problem?
At any rate I am going to get a primary cover gasket and tear it down for a look around, as my funds have run out for the “real mechanics”
If any one can post some thoughts or suggestions I would be grateful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's the rear Break

The disk is hot and the pads are locked up, not the clutch at all. huh!
I bought new pads and a caliper rebiuld kit. I hope that will do it, I will check the break pedal position and the travel on the plunger.
Question is how and why did this happen after the clutch R&R any IDs ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes, you are. If you read the whole post you will see how there are/were two seperate issues.
I have since rebult the and alligned the claipers - problem solved.
and now I have one amal sticking wide oopen, nothing to do with the disk BTW.:D
 

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Yes, you are. If you read the whole post you will see how there are/were two seperate issues.
I have since rebult the and alligned the claipers - problem solved.
and now I have one amal sticking wide oopen, nothing to do with the disk BTW.:D
well, i read it again and still don't see it.

anywhoo.... ditch the amals. get some mikunis. that or have your amals re-sleeved.
 

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well, i read it again and still don't see it.

anywhoo.... ditch the amals. get some mikunis. that or have your amals re-sleeved.
Or, instead of replacing a worn out zipper with brand new velcro, just rebuild or replace your Amals ...

I just don't understand people replacing the simplest and one of the most tuneable carburetors ever made with one that has a host of diaphrams and accelerator pumps ... I suppose you could modify your frame to accept a Yamaha TX500 engine if what you have isn't complicated enough ...
 

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Yes, you are. If you read the whole post you will see how there are/were two seperate issues.
I have since rebult the and alligned the claipers - problem solved.
and now I have one amal sticking wide oopen, nothing to do with the disk BTW.:D
Hi Dave Done,
twist the throttle and make the offending carb stick! then crack off the two top screws, if the slide snaps shut the carb top has been distorted though over tightening of the said screws. First part of remedy is to open up the two holes in the cap to give the screws some clearance then replace, if it still sticks a little sanding around the top 1/4 of carb body will be needed, especially near the screw holes.

Or, instead of replacing a worn out zipper with brand new velcro, just rebuild or replace your Amals ...

I just don't understand people replacing the simplest and one of the most tuneable carburetors ever made with one that has a host of diaphrams and accelerator pumps ... I suppose you could modify your frame to accept a Yamaha TX500 engine if what you have isn't complicated enough ...
Me neither t100rc, or am I just a traditionalist ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have rebuilt the carbs. I really like the Amal's looks. they are a compliment to the Triumph engine and a work of art.
However after the rebuidl one carb is still sticking when wide open.
Plewsy, I am not sure what you mean by ( open up the two holes in the cap to give the screws some clearance then replace ) are you saying use washers under the two screws? I did the fine sanding and polishing of the slides and body during the renew.

Thank's fellas for the info and comments!
 

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Hi DaveDone,
I mean the carburetor top the bit the cable goes through,
them two holes can get closed up when the screws are over tightened or had no washers on them. By clearance I mean so the screw drops through the hole, you don't have to wiggle it through.
place the top on and look down the holes, make sure the threaded hole in
the carb body is central to the hole in the cap.
Does the slide spring down when you slacken them top screws a touch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I will remove the tank again tomorrow to get a good look at the cap and threads. When the slide does stick, a light tap or two with a wrench releases the slide.
I am not running choke cabels - just the throttle. I am sure the cabel is not binding too much.
I will check the condition of the cap (s) and such and post results.
Any thoughts on giving the spring a little strech to make it stronger ?

thank you Plewsy, and thank's for your many informative posts.
 

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Mounting bolts' tightness might cause slide sticking

In my experience with two examples of a single Amal 930 on a '69 650, a stuck slide was always relieved by slightly and alternately loosening the manifold mounting bolts until the slide snapped home.
 

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My new Amals suffered the same malady. I wasn't running the choke cables and had plugged the cable holes with small screws and nuts with washers under the nuts. The screws, nuts & washers were from my old carbs and worked fine on them but on the new carbs, the washers were just large enough to cause a slight interference with the new bodys when the top caps were tightened down. I guess this was causing the bodys to go egg shaped at the top. I ground the edges of the washers a bit, problem solved.
 
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