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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am leaking oil from the alternator wire grommet shown in the picture. I assume it's the shared engine/transmission oil coming out of here and not the gear box oil. Can anyone confirm?
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Clean it up with something like electrical contact cleaner then fill it all around with a black silicone. It does not normally get through the silicone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've got the new grommet bits ordered and will be installing but I'm also breaking in the top end rebuild and want to wait until it's a more prudent time to dump and change the oil. Just don't want to run out and locked up.
 

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Hi Rafterman
you are seeing a leak at that grommet because it is where the symtoms of the fault show up, unfortunately the cause is within the chaincase housing. The gromet you refer to is in reality a clip for holding the alternator wire in place, it was never meant to be a seal.
the seal for the wire is internal and is a double sized afair that seals on the wire and on an extension tube screwed into the crankcase, these seals are often dislodged or rotted. You have to take the chaincase cover off to access it.
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regards
peg
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi Rafterman
you are seeing a leak at that grommet because it is where the symtoms of the fault show up, unfortunately the cause is within the chaincase housing. The gromet you refer to is in reality a clip for holding the alternator wire in place, it was never meant to be a seal.
the seal for the wire is internal and is a double sized afair that seals on the wire and on an extension tube screwed into the crankcase, these seals are often dislodged or rotted. You have to take the chaincase cover off to access it.
View attachment 764695


regards
peg
On my bike, I see the repair to include... Remove left foot peg, remove shift lever, remove cover, detach alternator wires, run wires through new grommet, clean grommet passage to remove any oil, add a little silicone to the grommet and put all back together. I assume this will require me draining the oil first.
 

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Hi Rafterman, This leak is super common. The new parts may leak worse.
Looks like you have original stator with the solid jacketing. That’s way better than the loose flimsy sleeve or repro stators.

This is what I do & it works. Don’t touch inner boot.
With finger nails pull back outer grommet. Compare with new one. Reuse old or new, which seems to fit best. Clean wire jacket & bore. I start with gas, finish with brake clean. Both soften/deteriorate jacket so work quickly. Clean the bore really well. Very gentle use of compressed air helps. Tiny bits of rag & q-tips help. Clean inside of the grommet. Let all solvents dry well a few hours. It must evaporate from jacket as well.

There are many formulas of silicone sealant. Some way better than others. I’ve found black Suzuki bond silicone is quite good for this wire. Not cheap! $25-30. But worth it.
With a Q-tip work sealant into bore 3/8” ish. Work it into alloy & wire jacket. A moderately thick coat.
About 3/4-1” of wire on out side a thick coat. Now slide grommet over the sealant working it into the bore of grommet best you can. Finally a moderate smear on outside of grommet. Counter holding wire slide grommet into position. All the way but don’t over push it. Just until grommet flange barely contacts case.

Wipe of excess, not so easy. A bunch of 2” squares of paper towel, then dry rag. Try to work quickly with silicone. We don’t want it to begin setting up. That’s weakens it considerably.

Already have a plan for wire routing. I like to zip tie to back bone with a gentle slope upwards. Not pulled tight but with minimal slack. If wire flops around too much when riding it seems to promote leaks.

Let sealant cure 24hrs at the very least. Any wiggling of wire at all during cure well make it leak.

Try to leave a tiny ring of silicone at base & bore of grommet flange. Much easier said than done! It’s really sticky gooey stuff. Goal is to look like there’s not a blob of silicone. I’ve done many like this. No leaks.

With repro wire sleeve you basically must remove primary cover clean tube & wire. Pack the tube & wire with silicone. On removal spend an hour picking it out.

Maybe it’s just me. 90% of the covers I remove inner boot is split & slid down to stator. I’ve put tiny zip ties on they last few. I’ll tell you in a few years if it stops the splitting. I doubt it.

Lots of ways to deal with this wire. This is what I do. Take it for that. Lasts about 4-5 years.
It is amazing how much oil it can leak sometimes.
Don
 

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This all seems a lot of work compared with cleaning the outer surface where the wires come out and putting a small smear of black silicone on. It will stay leak free easily for 5 years then, if it leaks, another smear of silicone. A five minute job. Try it and save yourself hours of work and obtain the same leak free alternator wire seal. I have a completely oil tight engine just by using good sealant methods. Not a single spot of oil drips after any length ride.
 

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Hi
I wrap the wire with ptfe tape and build up a plug of ptfe, I then pull this into the sleeve while fitting the boot, the ptfe is compressed tight, no leaks, no goo stuck on, no need to have it degreased, no cure time, no cleanup if you want to remove the lead, No leaks, no deterioration .
regards\Peg.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Lots of ways to deal with this wire. This is what I do. Take it for that. Lasts about 4-5 years.
It is amazing how much oil it can leak sometimes.
Great ideas! It really does like to leak there and these machines are not forgiving about weak connections and seals.
 

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I tried this first and it slowed the leak down for about 10 miles. Then started up just as much.
Maybe not clean enough before the silicone. I use black silicone made for sealing heating boilers. Evo stik heatmate. Temp up to 300C and it works well. Bought from plumbing supplies or builders merchants at £6 for a giant mastic gun tube. It might be worth another try but if you are opening the primary, its a chance to change the clutch rubbers. Look out for black lumps in the case. If there are lumps or a thick residue, the rubbers are shot so worth doing while you are in there.
 

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how much oil is coming out? if its something you can wipe off with a rag now and then, id leave it alone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
A couple of pictures worth taking while I had it all apart. I cleaned out the passage in picture 1 with carb cleaner, hop rag & compressed air. Filled it with black permatex and fed the leads through new grommet inner then directly through the wet silicone in the passage then through the new outer grommet. Now letting it sit for 24 hours.

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The old silicone that came out of the passage.
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The old inner grommet/rubber boot had torn and disappeared.
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a tablespoon is too much.

carb cleaner might leave a residue. if it doesn't seal, do it again but use a brake cleaner spray. that formulation will evaporate without any liquid left behind..

or electrical contact cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
a tablespoon is too much.

carb cleaner might leave a residue. if it doesn't seal, do it again but use a brake cleaner spray. that formulation will evaporate without any liquid left behind..

or electrical contact cleaner.
Didn't think of the carb cleaner residue specifically with silicone. I think the ill affects will be small and it will seal up well. Fingers crossed.
 

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I had suggested electrical contact cleaner very early on. The cleaning and sealing with black silicone just on the outside with no dismantling has always worked very well with no leak at all. I dont even have a rubber shield on the inside of the primary. If it works now, at least you have whiled away some time and had fun.. Look around for any black rubber in the bottom of the primary which might indicate the rubbers are breaking up. I would change them anyway now the cover is off.
 
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