On my bike, I see the repair to include... Remove left foot peg, remove shift lever, remove cover, detach alternator wires, run wires through new grommet, clean grommet passage to remove any oil, add a little silicone to the grommet and put all back together. I assume this will require me draining the oil first.Hi Rafterman
you are seeing a leak at that grommet because it is where the symtoms of the fault show up, unfortunately the cause is within the chaincase housing. The gromet you refer to is in reality a clip for holding the alternator wire in place, it was never meant to be a seal.
the seal for the wire is internal and is a double sized afair that seals on the wire and on an extension tube screwed into the crankcase, these seals are often dislodged or rotted. You have to take the chaincase cover off to access it.
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I tried this first and it slowed the leak down for about 10 miles. Then started up just as much.This all seems a lot of work compared with cleaning the outer surface where the wires come out and putting a small smear of black silicone on
Maybe not clean enough before the silicone. I use black silicone made for sealing heating boilers. Evo stik heatmate. Temp up to 300C and it works well. Bought from plumbing supplies or builders merchants at £6 for a giant mastic gun tube. It might be worth another try but if you are opening the primary, its a chance to change the clutch rubbers. Look out for black lumps in the case. If there are lumps or a thick residue, the rubbers are shot so worth doing while you are in there.I tried this first and it slowed the leak down for about 10 miles. Then started up just as much.
Didn't think of the carb cleaner residue specifically with silicone. I think the ill affects will be small and it will seal up well. Fingers crossed.a tablespoon is too much.
carb cleaner might leave a residue. if it doesn't seal, do it again but use a brake cleaner spray. that formulation will evaporate without any liquid left behind..
or electrical contact cleaner.