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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Snowballing into a bit of a rebuild, as I guess they all do. Once you scratch the surface...

Put new bearings in rear wheel, they were real flogged out.
While bike is stripped decided to pull the front end to do steering bearings as well.

I think this bike hasn't done as many miles as I thought, it appears there's still a lot of original parts?? The wheel bearings looked original, along with steering bearings. Speedo reads 16k miles, but tabs in speedo drive had snapped off, so no real way to tell.

These look orig to anyone else?



 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Decided while the wheels were off doing bearings to change up the tyres. I love the desert sleds and the knobbies, but they were terrible on the road, and we're vibrating me to bits, especially with the hard mounted risers the PO stuck on.

Wanted to go something a bit different, but couldn't get past the price of the K70s. Also quite like the tracker look, but torn as I'm so over the whole thin seat no guards look that graced every custom bike blog for the last few years.

Just gonna get it together and see how it turns out. at least it will ride properly.

Couldn't resist mocking it up with new parts once I got tyres back...

 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Started roughing in wiring harness as per diagram.
Decided I didnt want to rely on pillar bolt for earth at trispark unit, so ran an extra positive to there. Also spliced in an extra earth wire point at handlebar switches/headlight connection (behind steering) for any future requirements or troubleshooting.





Have since wrapped most of it in heat shrink tubing, and the center (thickest part) in self amalgamating rubber tape.

Decided I'd like to go a custom battery box, with igintion key mount, something nice so I don't have to put those plastic side covers on.
Will have to get something fabbed up, but it may be a while off yet.

Would also like to go a custom seat - bike is registered as single seater so only supposed to have it 500mm long maximum (which makes it difficult). Main reason for custom seat is to go a lower profile so I can get both feet on ground at lights, its a bees dick to high at the moment - just enough to be uncomfortable and annoying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
And now this thread is finally caught up on where I'm at with this thing...

Pulled forks apart to do seals, and noticed slight pitting and discolouration on right hand damper tube.


So much so pulled it to see whats going on. It would appear this things spent a few years on its side stand? Bottom inche or so above bottom plug thread on right hand stanchion has what looks like some light pitting.

Had to "knock" the right slider away from this damper tube with a rubber mallet too - was quite stuck where the bottom allen bolt goes through. Bottom rubber seals are missing, alas no leaks though?

Will go with new o-rings and get some rubber cap screw seals in the bottom there too. Might replace the pitted damper tube while im there.
These bikes add up $$$!
 

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what plastic side covers?

they should be cast aluminium on your bike

they look pretty good polished up or polished then painted
 

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what plastic side covers?

they should be cast aluminium on your bike
The stock air filter box housing and covers are aluminium. The stock side covers are steel. I think he's referring to the aftermarket retro covers resembling the dry frame earlier bikes common on a lot of customized oifs. His came with neither.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I meant the 60's look alike sort dave... not real keen on the 70's type. but then again those plastic/fiberglass ones always look a bit 'ill fitting'...
The originals are black, and they are all faded & matt like. I think they are missing mounting hardware too. Came in the box of spares. Was thinkin I could polish them up but they'd no longer be orig and would be a lot of work with all the fins & grooves etc.

Considering a battery box along these lines;
 

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Beaut bike mate.

Loving that battery box.

Did you make it? If not where did you get it from - it's the mutts

While youre at it - same question for the seat!

Cheers

KitKat
 

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They actually look quite good with the original covers and panels in a tank colour match rather than black
Much later on, the later bikes had plastic outer covers and some were bike coloured.

But if you don't have the back box then It's a fair bit of hassle
But fit an air filter
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
KitKat - just pictures I've found that are along the lines of what I'd like to do. That silver 72 is by FCR original in france. Nice simple build.

Dave, I've seen a few with matching colour side panels, not a huge fan. Would either aim black or chrome (or alloy/stainless) as per that photo - its just the origanls would be a bit of work, and would be refitting airboxes etc - not sure whats left of those parts in my 'original' box.

Gone to a tympanium, along with a dual fire coil (under tank) hence removal of coils mount. PO did the stainless battery box I bought it with, but its a bit crude - would like to do something more decent and permanent.

Re-assembled engine last night. Awaitnig parts for forks. Also got a nice new regina drive chain to go on :D Gonna crack on with getting the wiring harness crimped and mounted this weekend hopefully.
 

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Gone to a tympanium, along with a dual fire coil (under tank) hence removal of coils mount. PO did the stainless battery box I bought it with, but its a bit crude - would like to do something more decent and permanent.
Looking good & making quick progress!!
Any particular make of dual fire coil and how are you fastening the coil under the tank? I was wondering about doing that and welding a bracket to the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Bought coil from tri-spark when I got my ignition.
At the moment, zip ties, while I rough in wiring.

Probably go with 2 large heavy duty auto hose-clamps & a piece of flat bar with nuts welded to it, so I don't have to weld to frame (oil tank).
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
forgot about this thread so its a bit behind and dont have many photos but none the less
back together and tidied up almost all the front end to have minimal switches & instruments etc.
key is off/ign/ing&lights. Switch is hi/lo & horn.

 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Broke in the fresh top end and have been riding around quite a bit! runs really well, although a little rich if anything, but it means easier starting.

 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I've since replaced the couple of temporary "cheapo" wiring connectors for the quality/vintage style ones (ran out when building harness). So essentially it's quite complete.
After the fresh top end rebuild the vibrations seem to be worse? Not that they 'feel' worse at all! but number plate on rear guard is cracking through at mounting bolts, and tank has developed a pin leak - the latter really devastating me. Because on further inspection its had a repair before, to the seam around the bottom of the moutning tube. It looks like body filler (dark grey) around this steam, and the inside of the tank has a POR-15 liner.
Sounds like for me to redo, I would have to "strip" inside of tanks and body filler, fill seam with solder and re line inside of tank?
Any advice here? Really dont feel like doing this, just want to ride the thing.
 

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Hi Broganh - she looks great doesn't she. I bet those pipes are 'fruity' too.

I feel your tank related pain. I spent a load of money getting mine resprayed only to find a slow leak where the PO had filled round a hole. Filler had dried out when standing but was good enough to pass inspection.

I had to strip it back and start again.

KitKat
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
*wanted* one 71-72 tank in good condition, preferably in australia...


I think this one is a US slimline version tank. Anyway I can tell by measuring?
For what it's worth it has the holes under for tank brace, and no, i wasnt running one (unfortunately).


one more for the road...

 
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