Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,011 Posts


I found I had to create my own diagram, as I couldn't seem to mentally associate lines with wires and "routes" on the bike with other diagrams found on the net. By drawing mine I could lay out each component as if it was (kind of) located as it is on the bike when looking top down. The best thing about doing my own diagram was I'm now fully aware of what wire goes where and what job it does.
Yep. Good old AutoCAD R13

 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,011 Posts
At what stage are slides/carb bodies just too loose or flogged out to attempt to deal with? Bite the bullet, replace em and be done with it?

or have another go with the originals but now on fresh cables. and if still too fiddly then fork the $600+ ?

am I over thinking the engine idling too long before being run-in, while tuning after a fresh rebuild?
If you've gone top to bottom, inside out on the carbs, with 100% certainty, and it's still not running right, YES, you PROBABLY need new carbs.

HOWEVER, you'd best be bloody sure EVERY other system is operating at 100%- ignition, battery, valves, timing, etc.

There has been more than one report of a person installing brand new Amal Premiers (after cleaning them), and STILL having issues. If I remember correctly it's almost always something in the ignition, silly things like resistor caps AND resistor plugs (that's a no-no).

You can run the engine while tuning, but use a big fan blowing on the front of the engine. Limit it to a few minutes at a time.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,011 Posts
When I first got my beater '67 Bonnie "bomber" (rattle can black, leaking oil everywhere and smoking badly) I must have ridden it a year without sufficient oil getting to the rockers. Didn't seem to hurt or even discolor anything... Same parts went back in when I restored it, and it was still humming right along when I sold it almost 25 years later.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top