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Discussion Starter #1
Need to get a new chain and both sprockets for my 70 tr6r. I suspect I'd want to keep the stock ratios and chain size for an occasional cruiser. Any advice on brands and suppliers? I'm sure there are import repros out there, any to be wary of? May go silver/red paint scheme, anyone make a bright or silver colored chain?
 

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Ah the old chain threads. A couple of years ago I bought 5 m of Renolds chain in the blue box. just yesterday I decided to cut it to size, and magically I managed to get two chains for the t150 (105 links+ML) and one for the t120 (104+ML) out of it , Exactly. I had two links left over which were the ones I had to grind off.

All that just to say that I was amazed at how hard I had to work to break those two links. previously with other chains I just ground off the head and knocked out the pins. This didn't work here, I had to almost drill right through the end plate before the pin would let go and then it still took a few good whacks.

I'm going to swap the old Renold chain out tonight, and measure its wear, currently at 9,000 km but I've not had to adjust it much.

Some folks had bad experiences with renolds, but it wasn't clear which grade was used. They seem to like Regina. I think most known brands are good.

You can't use most "normal" chains on our bikes as they are slightly too wide. I think that limits any colour options ;)

Sprockets I would just go with those supplied by a supplier with a decent reputation.
 

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Hi,
Need to get a new chain and both sprockets for my 70 tr6r. I suspect I'd want to keep the stock ratios and chain size for an occasional cruiser. Any advice on brands and suppliers?
For quality sprockets, buy from one of the well-established US retailers - Mitch Klempf, Baxter, MAP, BCS, Walridge, etc.?

Both sprockets and chain are heavy; save carriage on the chain by buying from a local dealer?

You can't use most "normal" chains on our bikes as they are slightly too wide.
I think Brett is thinking of 530 O- or X-ring chains? I buy what I'd call "normal" no-ring 530 (5/8" x 3/8") from a local Japanese bike dealer (so DID, RK, whatever) and shorten as necessary (usual chain length is 110 links).

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you guys, that's exactly what I wanted to know. Not much for sprocket discussions on this bike using local search or google.
 

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The Bonneville Shop in Denver and Big D Cycle in Dallas usually have everything I need in stock.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
 

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You were right Stuart, was working on the old suzuki recently and redefined "normal".

Interesting link about the RK chain Oliver, thanks.

Re the Renolds on my T120, I took it off this evening and gave it a wash. Rather embarrassing the amount of grit that come off it....... I hope I measured it OK : from what I could understand , sort of keep it flat on the bench and try to compress all the links together, mark the ends and then stretch it out and compare with the first length. Was about 3/8 difference from about 9000 KM/5000 miles, . From this forum I understand it should be renewed when close to 5/8 difference. Might leave it in for another year then.....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you much Bob and Oliver. Both very interesting links. Is removing links on a sealed chain hard to do? Seems there would be the issue of damaging seals? Standard chain tools work?
 

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Hi,
removing links on a sealed chain hard to do? Seems there would be the issue of damaging seals? Standard chain tools work?
The 'ring' chains I've bought for my Japanese bikes that use 'em have come with both a split link and a master link, each sealed up separately with new seals, and I've spare split links. Nevertheless, the seals are around the pins between the outer and inner links, the chain breaker I use just pushes through the seal as it pushes out the relevant pin.

Hth.

Regards,
 

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It's exactly as Stuart describes.The RK UWV chain comes with a hollow rivet link only (not reusable). I think a link with a (reusable) clip would be to wide. So every time you open the chain you need a new rivet link which is around 7€ here in Europe. So it's best to have some spares. For opening/closing I use a Kellermann chain tool, which works really good. See this video (sorry for german language, but I think you'll get the point):

regards
Oliver
 

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Obviously I did use the wrong words. English is not my mother tongue, so please excuse me for that. So the german "Hohlnietschloss" translates to master link, and the german "Clip-Kettenschloss" is a split link?! I changed my posting above to reduce confusion.
 

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Split links are okay. I use them also. Just make sure you safety wire them to reduce any chance of them coming off while riding.

Rob
 

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Well, I watched the video and I read this post of Stuart's and the net result for me is confusion.

All the vendors I looked at labeled the link pictured below as a 'master link'. Is Stuart saying it's a actually a 'split link'? And whatever it is, what does the other look like? Or are they both the same thing?

And what exactly does the video show that puts off Stuart?



Hi Oliver,

:) Uh-uh, the video you linked shows what I know as a "master link" (and shows exactly why I don't use them ...);

... "split link":-



Hope this helps.

Regards,

Hope this helps.

Regards,
[/QUOTE]
 

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Hi Bruce,
I watched the video and I read this post of Stuart's and the net result for me is confusion.
All the vendors I looked at labeled the link pictured below as a 'master link'. Is Stuart saying it's a actually a 'split link'?
Another of those "two countries separated by a common language"? :)

The image I posted, I've always known as a "split link". Always. Even when I'd just graduated from sitting on the tank in front of my Dad to my first pedal-powered tricycle. :)

When I Googled "split link" for an image to include in my post, Google returned far-and-away more images showing the same as I included in my previous post. There were a couple far down the image list that looked exactly the same but were described as "master links"; however, I'll speculate that's probably because vendors more anxious to sell their wares than clarity included both terms in the webpage area searched by search engine spiders ...?

what does the other look like?
The video Oliver linked shows what I know as a "master link". However, if I Google the term, far-and-away more images showing certified lifting tackle components are returned than anything for joining roller chains ...

what exactly does the video show that puts off Stuart?
What I know as a "master link" always requires something similar to the chain breaker/riveter in the video. Otoh, what I know as a "split link" can be dismantled and assembled with nothing more sophisticated than a pair of pliers or what Brits'd call "mole grips" and I believe you'd call "vise grips".

Hth.

Regards,
 
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