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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a Tachometer cable from British Only the other week. It came in a blue box -- wasnt Doherty but some other English NOS company. Got the Spade and circlip pieces too that connect it to the engine drive gear box.

Anyway, the piece that fits into the actual Tachometer (its original) is very short and doesnt drive the meter. When I detach the cable from the meter and kick over the bike the cable is being driven fine, but it doesnt register in the meter. If I just twist the cable in the meter the meter works fine.

Is there another piece that fits on the top of the cable into the tachometer? Or did I get a duff cable? I see a "Metalastik Bush" in the parts book but dont see where that fits unless the book is not to scale.

British Only dont take phone calls now since they are retiring. Help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Paul.
I just tried switching it around. Didnt work.
Just realized that cable came wrapped in cellophane--it wasnt in a box. I was a bit warry seeing a "brand new" item that cost $45 show up like that.

Thats quite a few parts from British Only that havent worked or been the wrong numbers. I wondering if because they are liquidating, customers are now starting to get the bottom of the barrell items. Think it might be time to try a different vendor.

Cheers.
 

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Thanks Paul.
I just tried switching it around. Didnt work.
Just realized that cable came wrapped in cellophane--it wasnt in a box. I was a bit warry seeing a "brand new" item that cost $45 show up like that.

Thats quite a few parts from British Only that havent worked or been the wrong numbers. I wondering if because they are liquidating, customers are now starting to get the bottom of the barrell items. Think it might be time to try a different vendor.

Cheers.
Kev,

Give Mitch Klempf a call 507-374-2222. He has always gotten
the right part for me before, and he knows his stuff.

Pookybear
 

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Kev,

Is there a small "ferrule" near the tach end of the inner cable? Years back, I had this happen and it was because the ferrule had move up a bit and prevented the inner cable from engaging the tach's drive. I was able to carefully move it back down a bit and all worked fine.

Hopefully, that's all you'll have to do: Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Jim.
No this thing just doesnt seem to have a long enough "inner bit".
I'm sending it back -- just caught the 30-day return window too.

I know now why some people caution against the "NOS" parts. There can't be too many industries where people are willing to pay good money for parts that have been sitting on a shelf for 40+ years!
Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Can't beleive its been 18 months since I posted this!
Anyway, on the final leg of my restore and so I ordered a new Tach cable from British Only (same place as before). Guess what? Same issue--its seems about 1/2" too short. I went thru the suggestions above and no dice. Maybe they sent me the one I sent back last year???

Oh well, I guess Ill send this one back too and give Mitch a call. Unless anyone has any suggestions? (this cable was made by Venhill, apparently in the UK).
 

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Listen Kev, it`s time you gave Britishonly a miss by the sound of it.As I said once was enough for me.

On the subject of Britishonly retiring,it aint so,the owner is heavily invested in Detroit real estate and has had to postpone his retirement for obvious reasons.The city is a veritable wasteland.This info comes from an industry insider and is no BS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Listen Kev, it`s time you gave Britishonly a miss by the sound of it.As I said once was enough for me.

On the subject of Britishonly retiring,it aint so,the owner is heavily invested in Detroit real estate and has had to postpone his retirement for obvious reasons.The city is a veritable wasteland.This info comes from an industry insider and is no BS.
Yes MoBe, I think you are right. I did speak to BO on the phone a while back and asked why are they never out of parts if they are retiring (and presumably not restocking) - they said something about they will be around for a while now.

Anyway, Ive had my ups and downs with them for sure, but their online ordering database is extremly handy to find out part numbers, bolt lenghts etc. But not being able to talk to them and make sure i get the right part is a pain.

I should hopefully have just one more small batch of parts needed for my restore--I'm gonna call Mitch next time so I can be sure Ill be done with this restore asap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, I got a new (3rd) cable from MAP. This one is a very nice quality Barnett cable. Everything seems to hook up right. Cable turns when kicked over, and tach moves when I twist the cable quickly. However, when Its all hooked up and kicked over, it doesnt move the tach.

Could it be that the tach does not get enough "twisting" from the cable when it is kicked over to register on the guage? (My bike is not running yet and i notice kicking the bike over doesnt turn the cable that fast.)
 

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Don't know if this help, the tacho works on a magnet and spindle assemble, as the magnet rotates inside a flux ring a magnetic field is produced the pull around a drag cup (outer ring) which has a spindle die cast in to this drag cup. the pointer (needle) if fixed on to this spindle, as the revs increase the pointer will rotate.

this illustration is for a mechanical speedo but they are the same type of build but with out the counterstacks for trip and total distance.



you need to make sure the cable fixing is compatible with the key drive in the rear of the tacho, a slight size difference under load might allow the cable to slip or not mate this the gauge. is there enoght cable protruding from the sheathing? is the cable not rotating freely when is correct position?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Don't know if this help, the tacho works on a magnet and spindle assemble, as the magnet rotates inside a flux ring a .....
you need to make sure the cable fixing is compatible with the key drive in the rear of the tacho, a slight size difference under load might allow the cable to slip or not mate this the gauge. is there enoght cable protruding from the sheathing? is the cable not rotating freely when is correct position?
Everything seems to work component by component. I wondered if there cable was too short at the tach so added a few small spaceers under the ferrule. It worked again fine out of the tach but then when attached in the tach didnt move the needle. Im really starting to wonder that kicking the bike over does not generate enough spin in the cable to move the needle. thats my hope at least (after 3 cables) :)

(Again, the bike isnt running yet. Just trying to check tach works using the kickstart)
 

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Pinch it between your fingers and kick it. If you can't stop it from turning, it's spinning the cable fine. How far does the inner cable extend out of the top when attached to the tach drive on the engine? How far do you have to push it up to get the tach to turn when attached to the tach? Maybe when installed the the inner isn't reaching far enough into the tach to engage the driven shaft. I've seen it before.
 

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Everything seems to work component by component. I wondered if there cable was too short at the tach so added a few small spaceers under the ferrule. It worked again fine out of the tach but then when attached in the tach didnt move the needle. Im really starting to wonder that kicking the bike over does not generate enough spin in the cable to move the needle. thats my hope at least (after 3 cables) :)

(Again, the bike isnt running yet. Just trying to check tach works using the kickstart)
Kev,

looking at this problem logically, on kickover there will not be enough rpm to register, the cable on kick over will only turn one revolution, on the tacho this will be unrecorded, the first chaplet on the dial might be 250 rpm or 500rpm, the scale is usually compressed over the first couple of hundred rpm to ensure at idle the pointer returns to rest.

so everything might be ok you just need more revs to register pointer movement. once you got the engine running contact me again I will see what I can advise plus ask the guys in work for more info, as I am an instrument designer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks guys for the info. Belton - I think your logic is correct, I bet im worrying about this too much--just want to be sure the tach is working before I first start the bike after 20 years and want to strobe time it right away (and will need the tach reading for this.)
If someone has a chance, could you kick your bike over without starting it and see if the Tach needle moves? Thanks!
 

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British Only?
Are these people any good?
http://www.britcycle.com/default.htm
Sorry if this a stupid question...I know nothing of suppliers in N.America.
In the UK we have several good suppliers. :)
Unless you want to pay a lot more than you have to and pay very high shipping rates,I wouldn`t bother.I made the mistake once,never again!

Since that unfortunate experience in Sept. of last year I have done a fair bit of comparison shopping and without exception every item I have checked has been more expensive from Britishonly,and by a large margin!

Now let`s be clear about this.You refer to Britishonly but also Britcycle.The site I`m referring to is www.britishonly.com I have no experience of britcycle.
 
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