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If you kill yourself it's on you, not me, and I'm just some guy on the Internet so you probably shouldn't listen to a word I say...

But...

Since those bolts are not torqued anywhere near their breaking point, I assume they're "encapsulated" bolts, which means pre-coated with Loctite. Triumph specifies replacing all encapsulated bolts instead of reusing them.

Interesting that your manual says to replace the bolts; my 955 manual says under no circumstances take the calipers apart, which must make replacing seals rather interesting. :rolleyes:

I <3 my Tokicos! :D

Cheers,
-Kit
The bolts do get a drop of Loctite on reassembly, so it appears they are encapsulated. I'll inspect the threads once I take things apart and go from there.

Cheers
 

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Look I pulled my engine down and I think this is a load of bunk, the 675 pistons have big gaps between them and the bore?

Like I mean they are really loose guys, what gives? :confused::confused::confused:

You must not have gotten the right rings, Dave! Measure the gap, then ring up JP Pistons and see if they can get you a set of rings to fit. :D

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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No worries, Dave! No question this'll improve your breaking performance! :D

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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Yes, Dave. 675 pistons will give you much more engine breaking! :D

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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I know it's an old subject but for anyone interested here's a comparison of the Daytona 675 pistons on left and original pistons from my Sprint on right.



For me the issue wasn’t “spongy” brakes. Control, bite and stopping power were all good but the lever travel was inconsistent. Despite regular cleaning, sometimes the lever would feel firm, other times it would come back almost to the bars! :eek: That doesn’t inspire confidence. Not acceptable.

The piston swap gave me consistency, a set of EBC HH pads improved "bite" and a change to 5/8” master cylinder gave a firmer feel at the lever. I’m not totally convinced about the master cylinder swap. The old 14mm m/c gave a nice feel at the lever although it did require more travel than I was used to. As part of the brake overhaul I wanted to replace the master cylinder seals so I decided to buy the complete master cylinder assembly. Now everything's good.
I got my piston/seal sets from Bike Bandit today. I noticed one piston was bigger than the other, and started to freak out. I'm really relieved to find this post and verify that I have the correct sets. T2020465. For some reason (old age), I don't recall one piston being bigger than the other. :eek:
I can't wait to put these in tomorrow :D
 

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World of difference. Did this mod well over a year ago, and the brakes have not had a single instance of feeling stuck or that inconsistent feel. I even left the stock MC on the bike instead of upgrading to the bigger one to keep a bit of feel.
 

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Can I get a confirmation on the torque specs for the 4 bolts the hold the calipers together? The manual I have doesn't list that spec.

Second question is, do those 4 bolts get Loctite?

Thanks
 

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Similar caliper bolts get about 20Nm and Loctite, but the spec isn't in your manual because Triumph says not to separate the halves.

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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Appreciate I am late to the thread, will any 675 pistons work or does it have to be a specific year / model to rectify my Sprint ST 1050 ABS 2005 issues?
 

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Appreciate I am late to the thread, will any 675 pistons work or does it have to be a specific year / model to rectify my Sprint ST 1050 ABS 2005 issues?
The coated pistons supersede the original parts for various models and years. You'll find them listed for Daytona 675 2007-2009.

You need Triumph Part # T2020465. That's a kit with pistons & seals for one caliper so, obviously, order two. Last time I looked, that kit was cheaper than just buying seals alone for an ST.

If you plan to split the calipers then be aware that there's a little seal for the hydraulic fluid passage between the two caliper halves. That seal isn't shown on parts diagrams or the parts listing so make sure you don't lose it.

Also, 2005 Sprints were fitted with a 14mm master cylinder. A popular replacement is to use the 5/8" master cylinder fitted to later bikes. The 5/8" gives slightly shorter lever travel but not everyone likes the feel. When the bikes were new, Triumph did this as a goodwill gesture for a number of owners who didn't like the long travel of the original M/C so yours may have 5/8" M/C already. The photo below shows the size marked on the M/C - might say 14 or 5/8.

As you're looking for improvements, I would recommend replacing the master cylinder seals if they've never been done before. After 15 years they're probably due for replacement.

 
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