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G'day guys..

I am replacing the front pistons with those from a 675. Got them from E'day at a good price. I just checked with the local Triumph dealer for a price on new seals !!! They quoted AU $145.00 per side..... What am I missing here, thats A$ 290 for 8 seals...

Any other seals that will suit ? Any locations other than Triumph that can supply these. Looks to me like 8 rubber o-rings.. How can they want so much $$$ for that ??

Thanks for any imputs and suggestions.

Harry
Order them from a supplier in the USA. You will get them cheaper and faster.
 

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where do I get em -do I really need em

Hey Brett, how goes it mate - lets catch up.

Apart from bikebandit, are there others that supply them.

Dumb question to the brothrers - do you need to change these out. Can I use the ones from the donner calipers, they only have 1800 miles on them. Can I just put the donnor seals into my 955 calipers - or MUST I get new replacments.

Thx again..
 

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Hey Brett, how goes it mate - lets catch up.

Apart from bikebandit, are there others that supply them.

Dumb question to the brothrers - do you need to change these out. Can I use the ones from the donner calipers, they only have 1800 miles on them. Can I just put the donnor seals into my 955 calipers - or MUST I get new replacments.

Thx again..
I'm in the same boat. I expect to use the same seals, or the ones from the doner claipers, since they were pulled at around 2k miles.

Everyone says best practice to use new seals, but I'm going to give these a shot.

There is another thread with pics - the seals are not just o rings; they are a seal and a dust seal. At least the dust seal looks kind of square. If I find it, I'll link it.

- Dan
 

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Seals

G'day Rider,

Seems we are on the same page with this.. Are you aware of any tricks getting the old ones out.. My 2002 has 75k klms on it. The brakes have never leaked any fluid - I will try first using the old seals and see how it takes.. If that does not work I will try the seals fron the doner calipers, if all fail I will just have to fork out the price for the new seals.. Any comments ?
 

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After 75,000kms don't use the existing seals. Replace with new or the doner ones if they fit. Also give the lines a good flush with brake fluid when you get to bleeding them.

Harry you missed some good riding at the RAT gathering in Albury.
 

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675 Brake Piston change out done - comments.

G'day, did the job this morning, took 2 1/2 hrs. Would be quicker next time !!

Thx for the advice - it is really an easy job.

If the lever stays like this - it is PERFECT... Kinda sorry I didn't do it years ago.

Donor bike - 2008 675, very low klms.
My bike Sprint ST 2002.

My ST calipers only had 1 seal per pot, not 2,. There was a groove below the first seal but the groove was empty when I dismantled them. No way any of the seals could fit in that groove !! Assembled with only one seal ( the thin one ? ) - as before and its great ??

It was a bit of a messy job, but not so bad.. Also, dont let the m/cylinder get empty, when bleeding it take ages for the lever to pump out all the air - still great when done..

The bike was 95% perfect before - now 100% .. Anyone who has not done this mod - stop bitching, get your hands dirty - the fix is worth it.. Parts can be found cheap on e`bay..

If anyone in Sydney needs a hand to do this, or some advice - pm me or give me a call..
 

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OK - I bought some donor brakes from a D675 justr haven't had time to get my hands dirty...will have to make this a priority.

- Dan

Finally going to do it. Local tech day, and the guy throwing says he'll help me get it done. Looking forward to some better brakes...
Although I took out my friend's new K1300S (just after the first service, so I could 'test it out...'

I may be selling the Sprint and buying a ZX-14 or something...that effortless power is really intoxicating. 6th gear at 70mph...roll on and take off, pull arms from sockets power.

Wow. Need some seat time on the Sprint to fall in love again...

- Dan
 

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update on mine

Below is off another tread - a few months now and the brakes are still perfect - like they should have always been :mad:

So…….after new K&N air filter and 675 brake pistons and replacement mirrors..

I have had this bike since new ( 2002 ) so know how it feels and performs..


K&N..
At lower revs there is no discernable difference, the intake noise is a bit deeper, but no performance change – but – over 5000 revs, it seems to rev out smoother quicker and easier and makes a better sound..

If you can get one for a discount price, the fact that they are re-useable for the life
of the bike – makes good sense to me, so long as you dont ride a lot in dust storms….

Interesting, I didn’t disconnect the battery when I tilted the tank up to access the air filter,
I wasn’t doing any electrical work – but the engine light stayed on for three heat/cool cycles
anyway.. Also, it spluttered and hesitated a bit for about the first 300 yards, then all was perfect.
Maybe the computer was confused with the extra air intake from the new filter ??

The 675 front brake pistons are fantastic.. Great feel, still – after three weeks-plenty of hard riding
and still in slot 3 on the lever..…

Replacement aftermarket mirrors ( cost US$14.00 ) – look a LOT better than the originals, but both mounting holes don’t line up. I am looking for mirror extenders or similar so I can sort that out.

Over all - paint me a happy chappy..:D:D:D
 

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Brake comment

Dont really want to light this fire again.... but would'nt ya think.... if the fix is that easy, and it really is - why the hell did Triumph keep delivering bikes with crappy brakes ???

Not sure about the pre-2001 models but from there till at least 2006 ?? maybe later, - but if they got it wrong on the first models, WHY keep doing it ??

I did ask them years ago - never got a reply..
 

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OK - did the swap. Pulled the pistons from a trashed Daytona 675 (got the calipers for cheap, and air pressured the pistons out).

INstalled them without replacing the seals in the Sprint calipers, was able to do it without breaking them open. (was a bitch to get the old ones out, but since I didn't plan on using them again, used a needlenose and adjustable pliers to pull them out).

SO - now, the brake lever issue is solved! Friction initiates immediately, which is great.

BUT - we bled the crap out of them (never let the reservoir empty, but never actuated the ABS), and they are a bit spongey. I get that the fluid in the ABS system won't get flushed, but as long as we didn't let air in the system above the joint of the brake lines, should that be an issue?

Regardless, it's a pleasure riding the bike now, I just need to get new pads (old ones are 40-50% left) and either borrow a dealer tool or have the dealer bleed them for me.

VERY happy. It's been less than 100 miles, but the inconsistent lever travel is gone.

- Dan
 

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Dan,

Since your Sprint has ABS it would be worth your while to invest in DealerTool for now and future use. Don't let the name confuse you - I'm talking about software available for $120 not the expensive tool the dealers use.

Normally, I'd say try re-bleeding but you said you already "bled the crap out of them" so probably nothing to be gained there. In the other brake thread roxynoodle mentioned using a Mityvac. Using a brake bleeder, either normally or reverse bleed, can be a good way to make sure all air is expelled from the system but thorough manual bleeding should be just as effective.

Face the fact that your ABS system requires a different bleed procedure. It's possible to skip that procedure and bleed in the normal (non-ABS) way but then there's no guarantee that you'll get the full perfomance from your brakes.
 

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I may just do that. Not sure how much it would cost to have the dealer do a bleed as part of a regular service, but dealer tool software may be the way to go.

- Dan
 

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Dan,

I don't know about the monoblock calipers - might be best to avoid those in case the pistons are different. Otherwise D675 pistons from the Nissin radial calipers will fit the Sprint calipers.

Personally I consider it bad practice to replace pistons without using new seals. Since the D675 pistons and seals come as a complete kit I don't see the value of using old pistons. I know there are plenty that will disagree but it wouldn't be right to post on the subject without expressing my concerns about your plan.

Nice new D675 pistons & seals ready to install.
Getting ready to perform the caliper rebuild with the 675 pistons and could use a clarification.

The procedure in the manual requires replacement of the 4 bolts that hold the caliper halves together. Bike Bandit wants $7.19 a bolt for these ($57.52 for 8 bolts seems pricey). I didn't read of anyone replacing these bolts. I have 16K on my calipers. What is the consensus on replacement? required by physics or by liability lawyers?

I vaguely remember this being discussed but after an hour of searching I could not locate that discussion. Any guidance appreciated.
 

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The procedure in the manual requires replacement of the 4 bolts that hold the caliper halves together......
I don't remember seeing anything in the manual about splitting the calipers and therefore no mention of bolt replacement. The procedure in my manual describes piston & seal replacement with the calipers halves joined. I chose to split mine as shown in the photo but it is not strictly necessary. I just find it easier to inspect everything with the calipers split. I did not replace the bolts. If you do split the calipers be careful not to lose those little O-ring seals between the caliper halves; as I recall replacements are not part of the seal kit.
 

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If you kill yourself it's on you, not me, and I'm just some guy on the Internet so you probably shouldn't listen to a word I say...

But...

Since those bolts are not torqued anywhere near their breaking point, I assume they're "encapsulated" bolts, which means pre-coated with Loctite. Triumph specifies replacing all encapsulated bolts instead of reusing them.

Interesting that your manual says to replace the bolts; my 955 manual says under no circumstances take the calipers apart, which must make replacing seals rather interesting. :rolleyes:

I <3 my Tokicos! :D

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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I don't remember seeing anything in the manual about splitting the calipers and therefore no mention of bolt replacement. The procedure in my manual describes piston & seal replacement with the calipers halves joined. I chose to split mine as shown in the photo but it is not strictly necessary. I just find it easier to inspect everything with the calipers split. I did not replace the bolts. If you do split the calipers be careful not to lose those little O-ring seals between the caliper halves; as I recall replacements are not part of the seal kit.
Thank you for the reply.

You are of course correct that splitting the caliper is not required. I neglected to state that I plan to split the calipers for cleaning/inspection/curiosity purposes.:D I did notice that the 2 little O-rings are also not tagged on the Bike Bandit caliper diagram, and likely hard to come by. Reread the manual to make sure I didn't misunderstand, and on page 14.16 it does say to discard these bolts if you split the caliper. Same for the joint seals.

Daytona 675 piston kit on my desk, Dealer tool on the way. Looking forward to a consistent lever:D
 
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