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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi friends,

So I've discovered that my 2022 T120 Black has a different setup for the catalytic converter. For this latest model year, Triumph removed the 2 rear clamps that attach the link pipes to the cat... and replaced them with WELDS.

That's right - the cat is now welded directly to the link pipes, and doing the cat delete is now even more difficult. I have a TEC x-pipe on the way, and it appears I have two options to make this work:

1. order left & right link pipes (for 2016-2019 T120 model years) and two clamps from the dealer $360
2. find the above parts on eBay or similar (already looked, nothing on eBay in the US... plenty in the UK...)

My main question: Does anyone know if it's possible to cut the 2022 link pipe right at the weld to the cat, and somehow make this work with the x-pipe?

Probably easy enough to answer once my x-pipe arrives, just looking for anyone else that's run into this issue (found one guy on Facebook, looking here for more details).

Thanks all!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ouch! This'll make decatting impossible for most new owners. It was time consuming and difficult enough with clamps.
I'm on the fence about this mod now, but the cat really chokes up this amazing engine. It's basically a must-do mod for me. I think at worst, I'll hang on to the x-pipe until A) someone comes up with a solution (TEC, British Customs) that involves salvaging the 2022 link pipe, or B) I bite the bullet and just order 2016-2019 link pipes, 2 clamps, and 2 gaskets.

Also there is no documentation / how-to vids on how to tackle this yet. I'm hoping Delboy's Garage, or similar channel, addresses it soon. My first question... how much more of the bike needs to come apart to get a cat with 2 large welded pipes OFF the bike to begin with...? Prior to this, we just needed to loosen the clutch side frame rail (fairly easy).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I should also add - if I knew how to weld (or found someone that does), these link pipes are totally salvageable. There'll be plenty of pipe left after cutting off the cat at the weld to add a piece to join the link pipe and the x-pipe (or, weld it directly to the x-pipe but I'd rather not do that).

Maybe it's time I learn how to weld.
 

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how much more of the bike needs to come apart to get a cat with 2 large welded pipes OFF the bike to begin with...?
Look at the Tec installation video. You will have to remove the rear pegs and mufflers and loosen if not remove the headers. Hopefully, the cat/link pipes will drop down when you loosen the frame rail. You may have to cut the link pipes. I would spring for a set of link pipes, assuming they will fit in the mufflers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Doug, yup I watched that one last week (very helpful). Silencers are the first thing to remove. My guess is, header pipes and both frame rails need to come off completely (possibly at the same time, but perhaps just the left side?), based on the width of the cat + link pipes. It's a little tight to remove to begin with, with no pipes attached.

The more I look at this, the more I think this cat just needs to be carefully cut out. If I want to salvage the '22 link pipes, some welding / fabrication will need to happen.
 

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Only the left frame rail. You can stick a large flat screwdriver into the rear peg inner bolt hole when you loosen the nut to avoid having to take the peg apart. I took pictures of all of the clamps before taking the exhaust apart.
 

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It's interesting that given the option of placing the cats in the mufflers, which would have been more cost effective and easier AND reduced the heat generated, Triumph chose to put the cat upstream under the engine which is more complicated and more costly, but made it difficult and costly for owners to eliminate. Now Triumph has made it even more difficult to eliminate the cat.

Seems we can look forward to this kind of moves in the future of most motorcycles.
 

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Wow, one more thing that has me looking at a 2020. So far we more traditional triumph paint scheme, (i like it much better) center stand, chrome cam cover, less $, and now welded cat. That seals it if the other stuff wasn't enough. I like the improvements on the 22s but to 20 is looking more and more attractive for $2700 less including tax.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wow, one more thing that has me looking at a 2020. So far we more traditional triumph paint scheme, (i like it much better) center stand, chrome cam cover, less $, and now welded cat. That seals it if the other stuff wasn't enough. I like the improvements on the 22s but to 20 is looking more and more attractive for $2700 less including tax.
I love my '22 T120, but also would have preferred 2019's heated grips as standard (vs cruise control, which I'll likely not use much). At least it's pre-wired for heated grips.
That said - had I known about the newly welded cat and everything involved, I possibly would have opted for the 2019 T120 Black I found (but it was located much further away).

I don't think this is an insurmountable problem - I'll get the cat out, and the x-pipe in. It'll just take longer and likely cost more $ (for earlier model link pipes).

I'm wondering if somehow Triumph was pressured to make this a more difficult job from the powers that be. There's no way it costs less to pre-weld this part. I mean, what happens if someone needs the cat repaired / replaced down the line? It's not an uncommon job. Just scratching my head on this one a little.
 

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Not sure if all decats are like the Motone I used but suspect they are. Look at the rear outlets in the picture. Those rear outlets attach to similar flanges on the pipes with a gasket squeezed between them with a 2 piece outer clamp. If the rear used a similar clamping method as the front it would be much easier to do the swap. If the outlets on the decat you are getting have a pipe diameter that will fit over or inside of your existing cat you could possibily cut them off and make a clamp like the front to work. Otherwise you are looking at adding a flange to your cutoff pipe, assuming it is the right diameter.

Getting the earlier link pipes is likely the safest and easiest way to go.

Motor vehicle Badge Font Emblem Gas


Chuck
 

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Not sure if all decats are like the Motone I used but suspect they are. Look at the rear outlets in the picture. Those rear outlets attach to similar flanges on the pipes with a gasket squeezed between them with a 2 piece outer clamp. If the rear used a similar clamping method as the front it would be much easier to do the swap. If the outlets on the decat you are getting have a pipe diameter that will fit over or inside of your existing cat you could possibily cut them off and make a clamp like the front to work. Otherwise you are looking at adding a flange to your cutoff pipe, assuming it is the right diameter.

Getting the earlier link pipes is likely the safest and easiest way to go.

View attachment 759671

Chuck
Good catch. I had forgotten about that. The rear clamp screw orientation is why I took a picture of it before taking it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Not sure if all decats are like the Motone I used but suspect they are. Look at the rear outlets in the picture. Those rear outlets attach to similar flanges on the pipes with a gasket squeezed between them with a 2 piece outer clamp. If the rear used a similar clamping method as the front it would be much easier to do the swap. If the outlets on the decat you are getting have a pipe diameter that will fit over or inside of your existing cat you could possibily cut them off and make a clamp like the front to work. Otherwise you are looking at adding a flange to your cutoff pipe, assuming it is the right diameter.

Getting the earlier link pipes is likely the safest and easiest way to go.
Thanks for your reply, the TEC x-pipe I ordered appears to be the same design. That's a really important note about the type of rear connection, as compared to the front. So even if by some miracle the '22 link pipes have enough coverage (and the right diameter), it still needs a matching flange.

In short - I pay the dealer $360 for 2 link pipes, 2 clamps, and 2 gaskets, and do this right - OR bail on the job and just live with the cat. I think that's what I've narrowed this down to.

As far as getting the welded cat OFF the bike, I was told it's just a matter of disconnecting both frame rails, instead of only the left side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Can you take both off at the same time?
Actually, I'm not sure. 2 engine mounts would both need to come out (yikes). But if I'm envisioning this removal correctly... once I get the left frame rail out of the way entirely (either by loosening or removing), then I should be able to rotate everything enough to clear an exit path for the right side. Assuming I have enough clearance between the bike and the ground.
 

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Actually, I'm not sure. 2 engine mounts would both need to come out (yikes). But if I'm envisioning this removal correctly... once I get the left frame rail out of the way entirely (either by loosening or removing), then I should be able to rotate everything enough to clear an exit path for the right side. Assuming I have enough clearance between the bike and the ground.
I don’t know if the center stand (or something else) would get in the way. You could put it on the kickstand and loosen the right frame rail.
 
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