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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all -

I have a brand-spanking new (bought in Apr) Street Triple RS w 7K mi (I'm a daily commuter), and I have my first flat tire, on the front.

I don't want to have to tow the bike to the shop just for a new front tire. Can anybody point me to resources showing how to safely remove the front wheel? The Google is not helping.

thanks in advance.
 

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Try you tube as well as searching this site for tyre changing how to's . Also if you don't have the correct equipment it is easy to make a real mess of your rims . How much experience do you have , what equipment do you have and where will you be doing it ?
 

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Hello all -

I have a brand-spanking new (bought in Apr) Street Triple RS w 7K mi (I'm a daily commuter), and I have my first flat tire, on the front.

I don't want to have to tow the bike to the shop just for a new front tire. Can anybody point me to resources showing how to safely remove the front wheel? The Google is not helping.

thanks in advance.
If you just want to remove the wheel to take somewhere to change the tire, it's easy.

Remove brake calipers. It's better to hang them from someplace on the bike with string, or something else than to let them dangle from the brake lines. I also jam some wooden shims between the pads so they don't collapse together if I accidentally bump the brake lever.

Loosen the axle pinch bolts. Those are the two small bolts at the bottom front of one of your fork tubes.

Remove the axle and Bob's your uncle. To remove the axle, your going to need a large allen socket. If it's the same as my 675, it's 17mm. They sometimes aren't easy to find.

Obviously, you also need a way to get the front wheel off the ground, and a torque wrench for when it's time to put everything back together. Also, I believe it is recommended to use some variety of anti-sieze lubricant on the caliper bolts when re-installing to prevent galvanic corrosion.

Or, you can get a plug kit from your local auto-parts store, plug the hole and ride it to the shop. I wouldn't recommend riding a plugged front tire for any length of time, but it will do fine just getting you to a local shop.

If you are looking to actually change the tire yourself, that's a whole different story, especially with Pirelli tires, which have extremely stiff sidewalls that makes changing them without some real investment in the proper tools a complete PITA.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks much ... I have a tire bead breaker and have changed my own tires in the past, but those were on my old '06 SV650 and it wasn't as purty as the Street Triple. Not sure if I'll try to change them myself or not, but either way I needed to get that wheel off. I saw it takes a big allen wrench and thought there might be some specialized tool or something.

Might go the patch/plug route too ... hadn't considered that.

Thanks again.
 

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Get yourself an accurate torque wrench and a torque guide so all the bolts are torqued to the correct setting. Long run a lot cheaper than helicoils.
 

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Get yourself an accurate torque wrench and a torque guide so all the bolts are torqued to the correct setting. Long run a lot cheaper than helicoils.
Interesting you don't mention anything working loose, because the main reason I finally bought torque wrenches was because I was tired of stripping threads and snapping bolts. I don't think I've ever under torqued anything in my entire ham-fisted life. ;)
 

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If you can wait until tomorrow, I can get it to you, but I wouldn't be too concerned about it. The first time I removed/reinstalled my front wheel, I tightened to the correct setting - which I want to say is 65Nm, but don't quote me on that - I felt as though the front wheel was binding, so I backed it off until it spun freely. The axle pinch bolts will fix it wherever you end up.
 

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I use, I want to say 4 inch bungee cords to hang the calipers out of the way. Hook on the solid part of the brake lines and hang them from the bodywork somewhere.
 

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Thanks ... anybody have a resource on the correct torque for the front axle?

Oops! I forgot you are asking about a 765. My bike and manual are for a 675, but 65Nm/47.9 ft-lbs is the correct spec for mine. I can't imagine yours is much different.
 

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the 17mm allen key is easy to make, all you need is a bolt with 17mm head then heat it up to put a bend in it. Once you have the wheel out place the tyre on the ground in front of your motor car and just drive forward over the tyre , this will break the bead off the rim. Once you have done that use your tyre levers use a piece of plastic hose under the tyre lever to protect the rim and get the tyre off. Some tyres are difficult to get back on the rim, if this the case take it to a tyre fitter.
 

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the 17mm allen key is easy to make, all you need is a bolt with 17mm head then heat it up to put a bend in it. Once you have the wheel out place the tyre on the ground in front of your motor car and just drive forward over the tyre , this will break the bead off the rim. Once you have done that use your tyre levers use a piece of plastic hose under the tyre lever to protect the rim and get the tyre off. Some tyres are difficult to get back on the rim, if this the case take it to a tyre fitter.


Wait,what?
You lay your rim on the ground and drive over the tire to break the bead?
Can you please demonstrate this with a video post here.
Im really curious how the rotors hold up, not to mention the rims.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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A 17mm Allen wrench is readily available at any shop specializing in the old VW's. It's the same tool used to check the transmission fluid in the old air-cooled units.
Otherwise, most tool dealers have them in 3/8" and 1/2" drive sockets.
 
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