[MaksTO]

I’m in the process of trying to fit a 7” Dime City chrome light assembly onto my Scrambler.

Cut the hole bigger once, and still too small, so looks like I’ll have to do it again. Wow there’s a lot of wiring in there!

I noticed, while fiddling with the wiring, that the housing on one wire for the rectifier (harness side) is split over about an inch or inch and a half, exposing the core, as well as another wire that has some exposed core (about 0.5inches or a cm). I’m thinking I should probably deal with this before further trying to mash this stuff into the new (metal) bucket.

Is it possible to de pin wires from the connector in order to put some heat shrink over it? I was thinking electrical tape, but it’s a tight space so I’m not sure how good or permanent of a job that would be.

I’ve attached some dark photos (poor garage lighting… sorry…) for context.

Would appreciate any tips! I have basically zero electrical experience for automotive stuff so I don’t wanna dig into this too too much. Just want to be able to get this headlight on!

 

[Flash Nick]

There is some serious corrosion there which you need to address the cause of first. After which you could remove the individual socket from the connector and heat shrink it. The shrink will have to be large enough to go over the socket, so it may not shrink down very well. If all else fails, fashion a boot over the wiring to connector area with black RTV.
For protecting wiring post-manufacture I like spiral wrap.

 

[MaksTO]

I’m assuming corrosion is from being exposed to the elements (humidity from riding in the rain etc). Can I just take the corrosion off with alcohol or something similar before shrinking over it?

good call regarding the RTV! I’ll try to see if I can get heat shrink to close it up, but if not, a boot might be the next best thing.
I would just replace the one terminal, but not sure what type of connector this is exactly.

Originally was thinking of upgrading some of the connectors. But seeing how many wires there are the area, that’s probably not a good idea as a first electrical job.

 

[rweb]

Vinegar works great to clean that green crud from copper and brass. Tooth brush or small wire brush.

 

[MaksTO]

Vinegar works great to clean that green crud from copper and brass. Tooth brush or small wire brush.

Just read about that actually, thanks!

I found some 3:1 heat shrink off Amazon and de pinning tools (they come in massive sets though so I’m not sure which one to use, i guess see which ever one fits?), so I’ll try to get the terminal out of the connector and clean it up before shrinking over it!

 

[Flash Nick]

I’m assuming corrosion is from being exposed to the elements (humidity from riding in the rain etc)

I hear what you are saying, however the connectors are not waterproof and that wire is the odd one out compared to the others. There may be a bit of galvanic action going on with that wire, it seems to have even effected the insulation
You won't know until you pull out the socket. If the crimp is compromised you can solder it.

 

[MaksTO]

I hear what you are saying, however the connectors are not waterproof and that wire is the odd one out compared to the others. There may be a bit of galvanic action going on with that wire, it seems to have even effected the insulation
You won't know until you pull out the socket. If the crimp is compromised you can solder it.

I’ll definitely take a look once I have the terminal out of the connector! Definitely strange that it’s the only one corroded.. wondering if it might be the result if a previous owners work or maybe something else. Hopefully just a clean up will be enough. But I’ll solder if need be.

 

[MaksTO]

I seem to be having trouble depinning these terminals. From my research it’s a Yazaki CN-A type connector (or something similar). Can’t find any documentation on depinning other than it seems to be called a tang locking type connector.

would appreciate any advice on how to remove the terminal!

I’m trying to depin the female end fwiw as well.

 

[Boy Racer]

Both sides (male and female) are held in place by a tab on the connector pins themselves. These need to be bent flat to then release the pins from the wire end - normally you do the bending/releasing from the other end.

The issue here is I'm not sure where these tabs are on these pins. I currently have my headlight removed to clean up the wire wrapping tape and to route the clutch cable around the main loom in a better fashion so I took a look at mine for you, but the plastic covering is nice and tight against the connector so I don't really want to start messing with it trying to just take one pin out.

Here are a couple of videos to help you see and understand what I mean:

Good luck.........

 

[MaksTO]

I managed to figure it out!

seems the vast majority of connectors have the locking tab on the terminal itself, whereas these have the lock as a tab on the plastic connector itself. Had to go in there with a really narrow pick and was able to get them out!

every YouTube video I saw seemed to show the terminals having a lock, but my connectors are the opposite for whatever reason. Weird!

 

[Boy Racer]

Thanks for the update, I've not seen that before. I know that the indicators (turn signals) on these bikes use both a plastic tab on the connector and also one on the pin itself.

 

[MaksTO]

Thanks for the update, I've not seen that before. I know that the indicators (turn signals) on these bikes use both a plastic tab on the connector and also one on the pin itself.

good to know about the turn signals!

I ordered a bunch of lighting stuff from NewBonneville, including signals, so I might do a conversion to bullet connectors in that case when they arrive to avoid future headache. Some stuff has been on back order for quite a while though so I’m just focusing on getting the headlight done for now.