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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

My 2012 street triple had to be bump started the other day after I stopped at the store. I figured it was the battery so I got a new yuasa and popped it in, charged it fully and rode the bike a few days. On about the third day, I drove to the store and the bike barely started. I got home then tried to start the bike again and it wouldn't start. A voltmeter reading had the battery with the bike off at 11.5. I fully charged the battery up (13.x volts) and the bike starts fine. How do I begin to troubleshoot this?

1. Two bad batteries in a row?
2. An issue with the bike/charging system?
3. Blown fuse of some wort?

I just got the bike back from the mechanic for my 18k service and they didn't tell me anything about a potential issue like this. I plan to take it back unless I can figure it out myself. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The mechanic shop is about 45 miles away so I'd prefer to save myself the trip if possible.

Thanks!
 

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Likely that the charging system is not working. While the engine is running you should be reading somewhere around 14 volts at the battery. There are plenty of how-to's on the net for checking motorcycle charging systems. The problem could be the stator, regulator/rectifier, bad wiring, or a combination of these. Another problem could be if you have any aftermarket gizmos wired onto the battery that could be draining power when the bike is off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I just checked the battery with the bike running and it's at 12.5 volts. I will check around for howto's on how to diagnose but at the moment I'm guessing it's the charging system based on your test and the fact that I have a brand new battery. Could a blown fuse or any other bike-specific thing be checked before I start digging deeper? Thanks again for your help!
 

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The only fuse that should cover that is the 30A, and it won't start with that blown. I would imagine it's either the stator or R/R. Maybe someone else can chime in but I think there was a recall on the regulator rectifiers

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If your battery voltage at idle with a warm engine is only 12.5V, you probably do have a charging issue. Should be over 13V and around 14V at 4-5Krpm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you everyone. I'll take it to the mechanic this week. Hopefully the repair isn't too costly.
 

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In case this helps anyone else, the issue turned out to be a bad regulator rectifier. Getting a new OEM one installed.
I think I am having this same problem on my 2010 as well. Sometimes it won't even turn over when starting - might have to look into replacing this R/R part that seems to be the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just had my RR replaced as the mechanic said some wires were melted. Unfortunately my bike is still having issues. Went for a ride and then it wouldn't start. Had to get a push start from a friend. Battery voltage was 11.6v.

At idle battery is 12.6, at 5k rpm it is 13v. What is the voltage at idle supposed to be? Could there be a different issue? This is a brand new battery.

Ty
 

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I just had my RR replaced as the mechanic said some wires were melted. Unfortunately my bike is still having issues. Went for a ride and then it wouldn't start. Had to get a push start from a friend. Battery voltage was 11.6v.

At idle battery is 12.6, at 5k rpm it is 13v. What is the voltage at idle supposed to be? Could there be a different issue? This is a brand new battery.

Ty
Your stator is likely bad and will need to be replaced as well. There are a few quick tests you can do for a bad stator. If you had melted wires then there could be a short circuit or poor contact somewhere in the wiring harness, maybe a corroded connector. Idle voltage on this bike is normally above 14 volts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I agree about not testing. I'm going to go back there and discuss with them as this seems like negligence on their part. Thanks guys.
 

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General rule of thumb I was always told was if ones bad, replace both, like chain and sprockets. One bad will make the other work outside it's regular load and degrade it. It will in turn affect the new part being thrown in

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I just spoke to the mechanic and he is saying 12.6 at idle is normal and that my brand new battery may be bad. I've charged the bike up and will ride one more time to see if it happens again. Not sure what to believe now.
 

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12.6 volts at idle is not normal for a modern fuel injected bike. It was that way with older carbureted bikes. You should see close to 14 volts at idle and a little bit more when opening the throttle.
 

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Have a good look at the pins in the connector to the RR. Any sign of blackening or corrosion? These melted wires, were they replaced? Sometimes the crimp on the pin is not good and it gets hot and passes the heat into the wires and the RR. I had a similar thing on a Fireblade I recommissioned for a friend. The bike wasn’t charging and the RR wiring had got hot, I cleaned everything up and fitted a new connector shell, it was ok for a couple of rides but went bad again, I then cut the wires back a crimped on new pins and fitted another new shell and that cured it.
 
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