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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I apologize if this has been asked before, but on an EFI speedmaster how many baffles can you remove before having to remap the bike?
 

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I decided, with much trepedation to just strip out the first two baffles and cut off the slashed cut end of the pipes to just before the first baffle. Now I have straight cut pipes that end right at the rear axle nut that are missing two baffles. The sound is good, but still not what I want.

Here's some info that I felt was missing from the boards. The pipes are constructed in a way that looks a bit... confusing to those that might be new to this. There is the outer chromed bit, an inner 'Mesh' bit, and the baffles. The Baffles are connected to the Mesh through a few welds. The mesh tube is press fit inside the chrome with a fibreglass wrapping around it.

Pop the pipes off using a 12mm Socket at the header and a 5mm hex key right below the passenger foot pegs. Then get a tall enough wood block to allow you to stand the pipe on end with the header side against the block. I'd either use a friend to hold the pipe stead or squeeze it between your knee and a wooden workbench.

Take a long screw driver, I used a 24 inch screw driver I found at work, preferably flat head and a nice soft faced hammer. There are 4 spot welds that hold the baffles to the mesh. You can just keep smashing that screwdriver into the baffles and they will give in eventually. Once it starts to move down the pipe, you'll notice the weld spots a bit. They will look like a pinch point against the mesh. Focus on these new points now. You may pull away a small portion of the mesh, but we'll fix that later.

After the first baffle is out, you'll see the second baffle is slightly offset. This one is a bit trickier because there is less room between the pipe and the mesh wall. But take it out the same way. Long screwdriver and a hammer.

Once you are done, you might notice that the inside of the exhaust looks a bit... Ragged. This can easily be fixed by getting a can of Exhaust Header paint in black and masking off the outside of your pipes. Spray it in the inside of the pipe making sure to get good coverage on the whole mesh.

I used a good RTV Sealant with the highest temperature rating possible on the header end and put everything back in it's place. Tighten down the 5mm screw and make sure that the two rubber washers are in place. Then tighten down the 12mm bolt to squeeze the pipe back onto the header. Let the sealant dry for 24 hours and then cycle the engine a bit to let the paint cure. For my paint, they recommend 10 minutes at idle, 20 minutes at load, then 10 minutes at idle, 30 minutes at load and finally another 10 minutes at idle. I figure that I can do this on my daily commute in the next few days.

As for the sound and ride quality. It does sound louder, but I am still not 100 percent sure it's what I want for my bike but that is my personal opinion. I am unsure if the bike is running any leaner than previously, but since we opened up the exhaust, I am sure it is running slightly on the lean side. I don't really feel a difference in the pick up, but I never thought that my Speedy was sluggish to begin with.

I had originally tried to use a hole saw but found that the inner pipe on the first baffle was too long to fit the depth of the hole saw. Once I made it short enough, I couldn't get the bi-metal hole saw to make a clean cut of the baffle wall. I decided to shorten the over all length of the pipe because I felt it would make it more aggressive looking. I used a cold saw that we have in our shop and it was a bit of a pain to cut through the mesh material. I butchered the first pipe because I didn't have it mounted in the vice tight enough and had to cut off another inch to make a nice clean cut. End result is pretty good looking. I'll take a picture tomorrow at lunch as I will be riding in.

I wish I had taken pictures to go along with this little walk through, but I was doing this at work during lunch. Please feel free to ask me questions and I will try to answer them to the best of my knowledge.
 

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I apologize if this has been asked before, but on an EFI speedmaster how many baffles can you remove before having to remap the bike?
Once you removed a baffle you should remap the bike. (15 minutes , not much money to your vendor) otherwise it will detonate a lot. My vendor remapped mine with TOR map.

look at here (this is for 2009 EFI)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Drat, I forgot to mention that in my pictureless walkthrough.

Yes, you WILL need to re-map with two baffles out. I didn't at first and I was getting terrible popping on engine braking. A quick remap later and everything is hunky dorey. I am contemplating taking the rest of the baffles out or just getting EMGO Turn-Outs as the exhaust doesn't have enough 'thump' for me just yet.

All in all this has been a terrifying, fun learning experience. I would recommend to ANYONE with stock pipes looking for a bit more noise to first take out their baffles as all your are spending is your time or the cost of a long screw driver.
 
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