Guys! I have a question for both of you. I got the new factory (style) diode pack. Unfortunately no change. Same issue. I’ve concentrated on the green bulb area under the dash. I’ve changed bulbs (with the bright light indicator) and both bulbs worked. BUT, both wires coming into the bulb holder were hot.
Doesn't matter. I take it that you have swapped the bulbs for the LED kit. This has nothing to do with the dash bulbs.
Shouldn’t one be hot and the other one ground/earth running to the transmission sensor? And both liens test hot or have power (full 12v) with or without a bulb.
How are you doing your testing? It should be done with a multimeter, on the continuity setting (beep mode - the meter beeps when you touch the probes together), and with ignition
OFF.
It looks like the neutral switch is at fault, though you said that you had tested that. The Black/White wire from the neutral bulb goes to a couple of places - the diode pack, pin 10 of the igniter and the neutral switch underneath the engine (see my diagram in post #4. You can test the whole thing by putting the meter across the Black/White wire at the bulb, and the engine case. The meter should beep when in neutral but not when in any gear.
If the meter fails to beep in neutral, it could be that the terminal on the switch is dirty or corroded, or the neutral switch is not working. This terminal is where the Black/White wire connects to the neutral switch (it may be just Black at that point). It is the single wire running to the neutral switch underneath the engine, so will be subject to exposure to road grime. This test needs to be done before moving on. If the terminal is okay (clean and tight), then the neutral switch itself should be tested by putting the meter across the terminal and engine case. The meter should beep only when the bike is in neutral.
Should they both be hot? Do I have a bad bulb holder-receptacle?
It is unlikely to have anything to do with the bulbs, but the Black/White wire to the bulb would probably be hot if the bike is in gear, because the neutral switch provides the ground for the bulb when in neutral. The neutral switch provides the ground for both the neutral bulb and the clutch switch. Without the ground the bulb cannot light.
The other bulb wire is Green/Red, not solid Blue. I cannot find a solid Blue wire in that area on the bike diagram. There is a Blue/White, but that goes to the hi beam dash bulb. The Green/Red is hot as long as the ignition is on. If either a bulb or LED is in the holder, the Black/White would be hot when the bike is in gear.
Does this wire or circuit run past or through the bulb but bot need a bulb in it to complete the circuit? So that if a bulb goes bad, your bike will still run you just won't have a green bulb (in neutral).
The Black/White wire from the bulb is the ground. If the bulb does not get its ground from the neutral switch or it pops it cannot light, however the rest of the circuit - clutch switch, starter etc. will continue to function and the bike will run. The neutral light is tapped into the circuit but not essential to it, a blown bulb will not prevent the bike from starting or running.
Is this circuit grounded somewhere a dn I can run a new wire from the bulb holder directly to the sensor?
No, because the wire branches off in several places inside the harness. It even changes colour at the neutral switch. If there were a break in part of the wire, then that section would have to be replaced, inside the harness.
The sensor works so it would ground ro complete the circuit when in neutral.
How do you know this for sure? I know you said you had tested it but you didn't say how you went about it, or what tools you used to do the test.
