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Which R/R has worked for your ST1050?

  • Shindengen SH775

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Shindengen SH847

    Votes: 1 25.0%
  • Shindengen FH020

    Votes: 2 50.0%
  • Ricks MOSFET for ST1050

    Votes: 1 25.0%

  • Total voters
    4
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Discussion Starter #1
I've read the decosse thread about R/R replacement, and I'm looking for some advice from other ST1050 owners who converted or upgraded. Lurking for a while but decided to join to see what folks are running now.

TL/DR - From experience with ST1050 R/R issues, Should I go with a Shunt (FH020AA or Ricks) or Series (new SH775 or SH847)?

The bike in question has 60k miles on the clock. I've spent a lot refurbishing a lot of neglected maintenance, including the wiring.
Due to charging issues when I bought it, I replaced the battery, stator (Ricks), harness leads to the battery ground (and replaced wiring to the engine ground), and replaced any melted connectors with new ones with fresh Faston Amp open barrel terminals and the triumph "plug and play" harness. The only "cheap" thing I did was buy a used SH775 because they were >$150 at parts stores (in 2019) (not the ~$80 quoted in earlier threads). I also installed an Amazon voltmeter/USB plug wired to the accessory port in the left fairing with a relay that is activated by the parking light. All within the last year or so, and I've put a few hundred miles since.

Everything seemed to work fine, voltage regulated well, the only weird thing I noticed is that if I plug a phone into the charger is reads a lower voltage. Figure that is fine.
Today I got some new tires and was scrubbing them a bit when I noticed that voltmeter/USB reading 22v (no phone plugged in)! I had just washed the bike, figuring it couldn't be real and was time for a replacement and kept riding. The voltage did start dropping, eventually reading something more reasonable.

Then I decided to stop to adjust the clock. I stopped the engine to fiddle with the buttons. I tried to start again and it seemed like I had a dead battery. Turned everything off and back on again and it barely started. Mind you, I do have to keep it on the trickle charger, but between 3 bikes, sometimes I forget to swap it around. There was no problem starting at the beginning of the ride. So I start heading back home, then the voltmeter just has all LEDs lit (88.8). Figure that's a problem with the voltmeter/usb, but not starting also means something is going on with the charging system. A few miles down the road, voltmeter/usb looks like it's working again. Sometimes it seems to be reading low (lower part of 13v) sometimes proper charging (high 14v) and sometimes a little high (15v +)

Get home and pull out a proper voltmeter. Find that the voltmeter/USB does appear to match battery output. Sometimes I notice that the voltmeter reads high (16-18v) for a short stint, then back down to around 13.5. Sometimes it decides to charge at 14v. R/R was pretty hot, but no cables melted or looked burned.

To the question:
I can find a new SH775 for $80 now. I can also get an FH020 for $100, Ricks MOSFET is $150. Cheapest I can find an SH847 is $161. Does the SH775 work on ST1050s (I see it's not good for higher revving triumphs)? Could the voltage regulation just be the fault with a used unit and I should give the SH775 another try? Is the SH847 overkill? Or should I just go with shunt/MOSFET and worry about my stator later?
 

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Hi,
I have been running the SH775 for 5 years now using the Triumph link lead. This did not prevent my original stator from burning eventually, but voltage has been steady.
 

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3,100 Posts
I would recommend the FH020AA. Just order the Super Mosfet kit from Roadster


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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Whichever one you chose be sure to eliminate the 3 prong plastic plug that connects the stator. Join the wires separately and you won't suffer a melting plug problem and be stranded in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I went with the Shindengen FH020 (vote added for the tally). Went for a long ride today and charging is very consistent.

Still have the rebuilt stator connectors but they were cool to the touch, so no issues there.

Thanks for your feedback.
 

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78 Posts
While you are talking about R/R just a question about stators. With the standard being 30 amp output on ST/GT does anyone know if the stator from a Tiger Sport is a straight swap at 40 Amp output?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don't know the answer to your question about swap-ability of the stator, but my understanding of these shunt regulated systems is that you won't want a stator that produces too much current because that just has to be shunted by the regulator exacerbating the problems we all observe. That is unless you are drawing significantly more load than stock.
 
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