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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Oh and actually some good news about the bike:

A few weeks ago I got a passenger seat (in very good condition) and tail light from previous owner for just 50 EUR, which is around 60 USD.
I think that's a very good deal. Especially that I did not need the tail light, it was more of a unexpected bonus :D

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Discussion Starter · #102 · (Edited)
Ha, my risk of ordering the brake discs paid off, I actually got them :D And saved around 25 EUR (~30USD).
I was worried for a bit, but good thing I got them. Lets just hope they are both straight.
Also got the chinese CNC brake and clutch levers.
Will install all of this during the weekend.
Got to get the front sprocket engine seal also this week. Hopefully.

EDIT: Got the seal, and also had a closer look at the brake discs - one is bent, so can use only one. but still, got it for cheap.

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
Basically got the bike ready today, got the front forks from service, added new brake pads in front and also one of the new (used) brake discs, rear brakes stayed unchanged as previous owner had stripped one hex bolt and the pads were still ok (I have some spare bolts like that at home, but they were too short), so yeah, just left them there.
Tried firing her up, and after a few tries she started, as it was very cold, -3 degrees Celsius I thing, and as much as I know they don't fancy cold weather. But after that initial start it was firing up good, even after a while when it had cooled down.
Will also have to check the gearbox seal if changing it helped or not, but I'll do that next week, probably will also do an oil change.
It seems that we will have around +10 degrees Celsius next weekend, got to take her out for a spin ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 · (Edited)
Job well done!
Took her for a ride yesterday.
Everything is working smooth, brakes not shaking because I no longer have the bent brake disc, starts up good, a pleasure to ride! (Except for +4 degrees Celsius at night, that's a bit too cold for now :D )

Just that I have to have a look at the oil drain bolt, as it does seem to be leaking a very tiny amount of oil, like a small droplet every now and then. (I changed oil also yesterday)

EDIT: Checked the oil drain bolt, untightened it, moved the washer a bit, tightened it back on, and not a single drop of oil!

750670
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
Run out of fuel midway home. The low fuel indicator didn't light up. :( Maybe I didn't connect everything tight enough when I was checking the spark plugs with a removed tank..
Luckily a fuel station was 1km away, pushed the bike till there.
Will investigate this issue.
Though at first I thought I had spark plug issues again :D

751639
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
Here lies the problem - the LED did not have proper contact. Don't know why, but it didn't.
Did some soldering, works properly now. Not a beautiful solder, but eh.

752704
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
I also decided to remove the subframe and get it welded (the passenger footpeg screwholes were broken).
Note to someone willing to also remove subframe - remove all the electrics.
I wanted to keep electronics connected, but it turned out to be more of a hassle and basically pretty much impossible to remove subframe with all that wiring still attached and the bottom plastic being too wide (main reason, actually).

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Interesting that you had flat plate welded onto the subframe as opposed to the original circular collar type thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
Well, that's just a piece of aluminium that I had laying around and was the right thickness (around 10mm).
Cutting the circular shape is just extra work and does not have any benefit expect for, I dont know, few grams saved in weight..?
Plus, I suppose this should also be a bit stronger than just the circular thing.

Also had a test ride with a passenger last night, and the passenger was very pleased. My brother has a Kawasaki Z750, and the seat there is just plain awful. Too hard, both rider and passenger seat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 · (Edited)
Hey guys.
Something really bad is happening to the engine.
Was riding with my brother, we took each others bike, and while he was riding my bike, a weird noise appeared - a heavy clicking noise coming from the right side of the engine - but only while being revved. When idling, no sound, so valves should be ok.
Right now me and my brother are thinking that the starter gear that is at the end of crankshaft (I think at the end, see the picture).
But not really the gear, but the mechanism that makes it move only in one direction. We also saw copper-like flakes from underneath that mechanism at the bottom of the engine AND it is not turning very smoothly, and as my brother said, he thinks it was supposed to be a bit smoother.
Have a look at the picture.
Maybe someone knows something about this?
All other things looks good, chain has tension, starts good etc.


EDIT: Sprag clutch?

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
Because of the copper-like flakes, we think it could be the connecting rod.
I guess I will be taking the engine apart..
But any suggestions are welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
Got to replace crankshaft, connecting rod, and of course all bearings.
One of the bearings for con rod and crankshaft failed.
See pictures below.

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Mate I'm sorry to hear that :( Hopefully you can source a replacement crank and con rods easily and cheaply. Make sure to inspect your oil pump since you're in there as it may have been affected by the oil starvation as well.

I'm sure you already know but the con rods in your Daytona are common with any Triumph 1050 engine if you're going the second hand route, you can only replace your crank with another 2nd gen Daytona crank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
I actually have found one 2nd gen crank with 9000 miles for a nice price! Just got to find the con rod too.
Plus, as I saw it, con rod bearings for piston 1 would also have failed at some point. Had minor sratch marks on bearing and crank.

Thanks for the tips, @RampantParanoia
Will have a look at the pump too then, yeah.
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 · (Edited)
Ok, question about bearings - they have these markings - Blue, Red, Green and White for crankshaft and Blue, Red and White for con rods - is it that important which one is chosen? I know they are about clearances, which are important of course, but I do not have a tool right now that can measure 0.01mm or even 0.001mm difference. Considering I have the low mileage crankshaft, which would you choose?
P.S., went with Tiger 1050 con rod + piston combo (50 EUR for that). And that 9000 mile crankshaft was 110 EUR.
Now in search for gaskets and bearings.

Edit: - anyone knows a good place to get a head gasket (Europe/UK)?
 
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