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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Used some sandpaper to remove excess imperfections created by my actions. Rolls good now. Also bent both "taps" that spin the magnet further back.

And now, when trying to check for speed - it shows up without problems. All good!
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
I can guarantee you from personal experience, if fuel is leaking there, it is NOT the rubber seal (which actually seals nothing really) - you most likely have a hole(s) in one (or both) of those two tubes which run inside the tank from the filler neck down to those nipples, the only occasion you would possibly have fuel in either of those tubes would be if you grossly overfilled it and even then the problem would be temporary till it all drained from the tube - if it is constantly dripping, then you have a void in the tubes
I recently filled the tank up and yes, it seems that it is leaking from the water overflow tube, but right at the very top of the tank/tube.
Will eventually look into this and update the thread.

I will also probably do some flyscreen mod to the bike, so that it looks nicer and eventually will re-paint the tail and tank. Either white as it is now, or completely black. That I will also update here.

The front suspension also needs work, and I want to do it on my own, so will also add info about how and what to do about suspension repair too - probably needs new bushings and of course new fork oil - which means taking the whole thing apart. I already know how it's done, will just add info here for folks to see as it is really nothing special.

BTW - The bike is running great now, all seems to be working well. A lot of popping from exhaust - but no backfires.

Question - is the cover of clutch cover very important? The one with 3 bolts? As it is heavily cracked from the crash at the bottom, but doesn't seem to be leaking oil or anything, so I guess it's somewhat for the looks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Hey guys!

So I havent had any work yet on stuff I mentioned previously, but I got another issue.
I started the bike today after 5 days of not running it (it was running ok before), and now it feels and sound like one cylinder is not working. But not always, only sometimes. Though on low revs it's almost always like that. Doesnt pull as it should, the sound is awful, cant even roll it with clutch from a stop, just dies if I don't give some extra throttle.
I really hope that it's only because of bad spark plug, that could be the cause, right?
Because I really hope it's not because of a failing fuel injector - as that could also be the issue?

Your thoughts guys?
 

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2004 Daytona 955i, 2018 Indian Roadmaster, 1980 CB650C in resto
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Would you believe I had this video taken and uploaded before I realized the first post was four months old? Oh well, may as well post it.

As for the latest issues, yes, could be spark plug, could be the fuel injector. I'd recommend the obvious procedure; pull each plug, check to make sure it's sparking, check the wires, and see if that tells you anything. You could try starting it with each plug out and see if you smell fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Thank you very much for the video. And seeing how specific the video is, yes, yes I would believe :D
Later on I figured that the sound I was concerned about most probably are those SAI flaps moving.. which I believe you also have?

I am going to the country side tomorrow morning and will check all that there. Oh and thanks for the tip about smelling fuel from the spark plugs! That would actually be a good sign, as I rather just change the spark plug :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Weird or what, I do not know - The day I posted the message, the bike was not working fine. The very next morning - fires up sounding and working perfectly fine.
Had a ride to the country side - no issues. I think I did hear it sound awful once during the ride, but that was literally for a second and then again no issues whatsoever.
Yesterday came back from country side, and the bike is still working fine. I did not test anything as there wasnt really anything to test, if all is working..
 

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2004 Daytona 955i, 2018 Indian Roadmaster, 1980 CB650C in resto
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Bikes hate to sit unused even more than cars do. Sometimes, if you’re really lucky, just using them on any kind of regular basis can pull some issues back from the edge of becoming a more serious problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Someone tried stealing the bike :/
Have a feeling some drunks tried that, as I heard some guys being too loud at the apartment block and some other minor stuff had happened there.
Not too much damage done, mirrors are off and and front brake lever is bent due to dropping of the bike.

Plus the latest issue is back, and even worse now - If then it felt like running on 2 cylinders, not it feels like running on just 1 (sometimes), as it sometimes even stalls due to inability to idle properly. Feels like the issues are over when I get over 4000 RPM, most of the time.
Now I have a feeling that it could be coils, yet I hope for spark plugs. No error codes are showing up as a check engine light. (dont have the cable)

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Ha, I'm not gone!

Had a pause from bike during winter, but with season coming back up, starting to prep the bike up.
In the picture below I added a Yamaha YZ85 gear shifter, and eliminated (well not really, it's in the storage box :D ) the stock one. Main reason being the MOT which I wouldn't pass with the stock (was broken and did my own mod there). It was very hard to get it on there, but a little bending helped.
Also, as I read in the forums, it should give a better feel overall. Didn't ride it yet, but it does seem to be nice and direct when tried switching gears while stationary.

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Also will take the front suspension to service, as it seems like they don't have any oil and is working with only the help of spring.
Will need a new brake disc, as one is slightly bent.
Will get new brake pads, as these are very dusty and seem to have poor stopping power, especially the rear (I know the rear isn't really made for stopping, but still, feels like crap..)
And a new set of iridium spark plugs are coming.
Ahh, and I also need a gearbox output shaft seal. I don't know if you can see well in the picture, but it's all oily there.
 

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Thnx for the update! It will b a nice moto when u are done with it, looks like a fun ride!
forgive me if I am wrong, I am really into different cultures so by the flag colors are u Latvian, if so that’s pretty cool I never new anyone from there. That’s what I really like about this Triumph site is the ability to connect with people from all over the world and share our passion for motorcycles and other topics. I will probably never have a chance to go to a lot of countries I would have had the pleasure of enjoying different cultures meeting cool interesting people who are so different in a great way but yet the same in many aspects of how we go about living our lives and getting through each day, all is well when u own a Triumph! How cool is that! Have a great day! ......FTG
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Yeah, still needs some visual addons to be a really good looking one.
And yes, I am from Latvia! I think mostly you can see British, US or Australian people here, but yeah, there are some other folk here too :D


But a question to someone who might know this:

Does anyone know the size of the gearbox output shaft seal size? I believe the part number is T3600112.
If that is true, it seems that the size is 40mm inner diameter, 62mm outer diameter and 6mm wide. Is this true?
Asking because there are these things available online, but with shipping it's like 30 EUR, which is about 36$.
On the other hand I found a seal locally, that's almost the same size. It's 40/62/7 (instead of 40/62/6). I am still looking for 40/62/6 though, but would be cool if anyone could confirm the size.
 

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According to this site you're correct, it's 40/62/6. Any local bearing supplier should be able to source an equivalent for you.

You mentioned the back brake being rubbish. That's normal on these bikes, it's garbage to start with and the calliper tends to seize as well. If you want better feel and power from it you can replace the master cylinder with a 1/2" bore unit from a 90s Kawasaki ZX750.

Alternatively you can replace the calliper hanger with one from a Sprint and fit the larger Sprint brake disc which will give you more stopping power but doesn't affect the wooden feel of the stock 14mm master cylinder. You'll need the shorter Sprint brake line but you can retain your calliper, the nipple will be on the bottom but it doesn't bother me, I take my calliper off to bleed it as it's a pain otherwise either way. I've done both and can lock up the back wheel pretty easily, I'd recommend doing the master cylinder first and see how that suits you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Thanks @RampantParanoia, just found one one locally for 3 EUR, ordered together with some bearings for my motocross KTM linkage.

I thought that the pad upgrade would make it better, but it seems that won't be the case here.. it's just plain awful :D Might be an upgrade for the future, but now I'll be fine with what it is, as I mainly use the front brakes only, rear brake use is probably just an instinct from offroad riding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 · (Edited)
Umm, does Sprint 955 front brake disc fit Daytona 955?
Just found 2 used ones (from an online scrapyard), they are very cheap, but got to know fitment, as I read from another listing on ebay, that a guy bought EBC MD669XC front brake disc for 2004 Sprint RS, but it did not fit.
The listing says it was from "TRIUMPH SPRINT 955"

Here's pictures of the discs I am looking at, they look identical to Daytona discs:
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I checked EBC catalog and saw only one Sprint 955, but that one had 6 bolt holes, these 2 have 5, same as with Daytona..

(P.S., I ordered a brand new brake disc (75 euro, cheap I know), but it was supposed to arrive after 10 weeks. A bit too late for me.)

EDIT: Right now I think that they either messed up with model or the bike had different wheel set on..

EDIT 2: Nevermind, I found the actual seller, and got it for a better price. So cheap I just risked it :D It seems like the place I was going to buy them from first, was just ordering stuff from another site and just adding some small bonus to their purchase + delivery cost. I was supposed to buy it for 45 EUR + shipping (probably round 20 EUR), now I got it all for 39 EUR :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 · (Edited)
Hey guys

So I got first shipment of parts, and one of the items were spark plugs.
If someone has read my previous issues, one of them was the feeling of losing one cylinder. And I was wondering, what could it be, coils or spark plugs, as the issue appeared and disappeared over night multiple times, and usually it appeared after it had been raining (bike was under tarpaulins at that time (we have a name for this material, sounds much better, first time hearing/using it in English - tarpaulins)).
And I had suspicion of moisture getting to the spark plugs. It seems I was right.

As I had a look at the plugs, all were rusted, and 2 of the spark plug holes (the ones on the side) still had some minor amount of liquid inside.
One of the coils, as in the picture, was also with a layer of rust, which of course explains the feeling of losing a cylinder..
Did all the cleaning I could and then changed the plugs, and damn, they were awful. Spark side was fine though..
Question - does the coils really have that poor water resistance as in with seals? My motocross bike and brothers KTM Duke has a decent seal that would let water in only if you directly power-washed it...

I did my own mod now though, as I did not want to replicate the issue while just washing the bike :D
I put some insulation tape around the coil top, and in addition added some old rubber from a tire around the coil over the insulation tape, just to minimize the possibility of water coming in. You can kind of see it in the picture below..

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There is an issue with the coil seals not sealing properly on the early bikes using those coils, leading to water getting into the plug wells. I can't see which type of seals you have but I'm assuming the early ones since you've had so much leakage. You can replace the crap ones with the later seal (T1291511) to solve the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Thanks again, @RampantParanoia
I did not know this, but it appears to me, after having a look at the part number you provided in google images, that my current coils didn't even have the old design seal.
As in - all 3 of them were without any rubber on top whatsoever, at the time of installation I thought they were sealed with rubber within the head/valve cover..
Jesus, what the hell were the previous owners doing with it...

I do believe it should have looked like the coil on the left in below picture (taken from google images), but it looked like none of them, no seal at all for the coil itself on top, just the seal for spark plug..
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Wow, the things previous owners leave for us to deal with eh? I think the coil on the right in your picture has the newer seal on it FYI.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Yeah, it's awful. Just got to go trough every crucial thing I guess (and not just crucial), but I would never think of something like this actually missing. I mean like - why did none of them have any seal..
But yes, the one on the right would be the new one, and it also looks very similar to my motocross bike's spark plug seal, so it should work perfectly.. once I get them :D
 
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