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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I put a multimeter and checked if the white-blue wire (bike side wire, sensor side - Pink) had the pulses when spinning the wheel - there werent any - it just stayed at constant voltage - around 13.5V I think.
Regarding White-Blue (sensor side Pink wire) wire coming from connector of wheel speed (hall effect) sensor- there should only be voltage IF the front wheel is spinning AND the ignition is on or bike running, right?
Because then I probably have a short somewhere..
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Ok, got some progress here - the fuel pump Green/Red wire is somewhere touching the speedo White/Blue wire, thus giving the White/Blue the 13.5V when bike is running.

Now just got to find the spot where they both meet. Yay.
 

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Regarding White-Blue (sensor side Pink wire) wire coming from connector of wheel speed (hall effect) sensor- there should only be voltage IF the front wheel is spinning AND the ignition is on or bike running, right?
You don't want to 'spin' the wheel - the sender produces hi/lo pulses as the magnets trigger the Hall sensor in the Sender unit
What you want to do is monitor the White/Blue and SLOWLY turn the wheel and look for it to change state from low to hi to low
It would change state 4 times in one complete wheel revolution.

Green/Red wire is somewhere touching the speedo White/Blue wire, thus giving the White/Blue the 13.5V when bike is running.
There is probably a pull-up in the ECU which is giving the 12V on the White/Blue - and it only goes low when the sender toggles its output to that low condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
There is probably a pull-up in the ECU which is giving the 12V on the White/Blue - and it only goes low when the sender toggles its output to that low condition.
I suppose it is same as here in THIS video, where the White/Blue would get the voltage spikes only when the magnet passes, and no or minimal voltage would be there otherwise.

Im halfway trough the wiring to see the short between the wires anyway now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Ok.
I now have to figure out, what to do now, as that didnt really work out.

Maybe someone can test their speed sensor connector, the White/Blue wire, and see if it actually has voltage with ignition on.
 

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Maybe someone can test their speed sensor connector, the White/Blue wire, and see if it actually has voltage with ignition on.
It's not that simple
As I explained it MIGHT have 12V on it, depending on where the wheel position is
i.e. I could check it and it might have 12V - but move the wheel 15 deg and it might not
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
No, no, no, with the connector disconnected from speed sensor.
As I still get the voltage in White/Blue wire when it is disconnected. Thats the thing.

As in picture - disconnected:
729451



EDIT: Just FYI - I was turning the wheel slowly, without seeing a difference in voltage output when I did the spinning of wheel test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
But would it be 12V or would it change with engine running?
As with just ignition on it was 11.5V, and with engine running it was 13.5V for the White/Blue wire.


EDIT: If it would stay at that voltage from ECU, then I suppose the actual wheel speed sensor is bad and is not sensing the magnet turning.
I read in another thread, where a guy hit a sensor with a 2x4 and it started working, until he put it back on bike :D
 

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You're not really understanding how electronics work
There will be a pull-up resistor on the White/Blue wire inside the ECU - the White/Blue wire will be grounded when the wheel sender goes low - that does not 'short out' the 12V you are seeing, because it is connected via a resistor. If you only have one end of a resistor connected, then there is no voltage drop across the resistor until the other end is actually connected to something (and a high-impedance voltmeter does not count)
So when you disconnect the sender then you are just measuring the voltage through that unloaded resistor.

The voltage is higher with bike running because the entire voltage system is higher

I'm not saying your sensor is 'not bad' - just that measuring 12V on the White/Blue wire is not a val.id test to reach that conclusion
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Alright, I understand the issue now.
Feeling a bit dumb now. Wouldn't have to rip half of the wiring loom out. But I did found out why the bike was smelling like gas sometimes - bad rubber seal in the bottom of fuel tank, where the 2 hoses are which ejects excess liquids (gas cap water overflow and another one..)

I will then check the sensor.

Thanks again, DEcosse.
I hope that at some point all this info will be useful to someone else also besides me.
 

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But I did found out why the bike was smelling like gas sometimes - bad rubber seal in the bottom of fuel tank, where the 2 hoses are which ejects excess liquids (gas cap water overflow and another one..)
I can guarantee you from personal experience, if fuel is leaking there, it is NOT the rubber seal (which actually seals nothing really) - you most likely have a hole(s) in one (or both) of those two tubes which run inside the tank from the filler neck down to those nipples, the only occasion you would possibly have fuel in either of those tubes would be if you grossly overfilled it and even then the problem would be temporary till it all drained from the tube - if it is constantly dripping, then you have a void in the tubes
I bet you will find that it doesn't leak when fuel is at a lower level, but you notice it when tank is full. This is a not un-common occurrence. In my case the garage would be reeking if I filled it just before returning home - and continue to drip until was about half-way down when it would stop.
You need to repair it with an epoxy sealant - may as well do the whole tank while you're at it, with Caswell Tank Liner
I'll reference thread for you tomorrow with pics that illustrate exactly what the problem is.

edit - didn't have to look far - I had already added it to the Mods, Upgrades and Fixes Catalog in the Stickies

This is a great picture that shows perfectly the issue

729494
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Regarding speedo - I found the issue - the little taps or whatever they are called - the ones turning the magnet, they somehow managed to not place themselves as they should, and scraped a side of the new aluminium magnet, and the magnet was not moving at all.
I just tried pushing it with all my might, and nothing. So thats the issue.
So now I will try and saw its side around the center, where it is messed up, with a metal saw, to try and make it move. Plus will bend the taps to better position.
Overall the magnet itself is ok, just the one side slightly scraped off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Alright, my initial idea of making it move is not working.
Got to figure out a different way.
There isnt a gap big enough between the center of magnet and the metal bushing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Exactly that, DEcosse.
I did grease it, put enough of it there.
Most probably I bent some of the wheel taps/pins, they didnt have enough contact and just messed up the aluminium rotor. And when it messed it up, it kind of molded (I dont know the best way to say how it is) together with the sender unit.
As in, the tiny gap that was supposed to be between the rotor and sender unit, its no longer there.

I tried to hammer the rotor, with no success, didnt move a bit.
Also tried using thin knife to scratch the aluminium, to create that gap, also with no success.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Very good suggestion!
Will try that today after work (or during lunchtime, working from home during this time).

I have an electric heat gun, will try that - heats things up very well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
I feel like a champion now.
Got the damn thing out.
Heat did not help at all, just burnt my hands :D

Pic below with tools used to get it out.
A metal saw, angle-grinder disc un-do tool, and also a little bit of brake cleaner.

729621
 
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