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Discussion Starter #1
Have long been keen on altering a Thruxton, although a beautiful machine and design, I had an alternate vision.
My plan started with:
- Remove airbox and swap exhaust system.
- Install a different tank, nothing wrong with the OEM, it’s still on most modded bikes and want to go my own way.
- LEDs all round, Motogadget M-unit blue.
That’s the general scope, whilst maintaining engine, rims and forks but still leaving the design open for possible updates down the track.
This is the general timeline but many smaller parcels have been skipped and apologies as I did not capture many photos of the progress.
https://www.triumphrat.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=662098&thumb=1
- Air box, rear guard, tail light, indicators, exhaust system, side covers, seat, headlight/ears were all removed.
- Gauges along with standard switches although not on the original brief got the chop.
- Found a tank that suited my needs and once the securing brackets and rear of frame were sorted, the new alignment raised the rear of tank, built new seat rails above existing to maintain the line front to rear, this was planned prior and were always part of the original plan. Once secured I then infilled with perforated SS sheet.
- The rear of the frame also got a few inches off and then installed a hoop with a milled out section for a flexible LED taillight and removed all unused frame tabs.
- Removed wheels and unlaced, Hydro-blasted hubs, polished spokes and rims then relaced along with new sprockets and chain.
- Polished engine side covers, cam cover and forks, new gaskets all round and reinstalled.
- Had some custom velocity stacks made up from a local metal spinner then installed some fine SS gauge mesh that sits flat, then overlayed a course outer mesh shaped with a tennis ball to achieve the desired curve. Finished off by rolling the outer bell to secure all in place.
- Changed out and relocated the front and rear brake reservoirs. Nothing special here, just generic online stock and reconnected using clear hose suited for brake fluid. Also as the airbox and all parts in that area were removed or relocated, I chose to relocate the rear reservoir just above the MC and welded a small securing bracket to frame. Tapped the hollow swing-arm pivot bolt to suit M10 banjo bolts and had a set of custom lines built to suit each side.
- Removed 99% of the wiring and with the excellent guidance from Tim (H3CTIC)…a lot of guidance…we got it rewired using the m-unit blue.
- Finalised wiring with gauges and warning LEDs, (Neutral, Oil, Battery and Low fuel). Tank has a thermistor and sourced a module from Spiyda in the UK to complete this circuit.
- Also sourced a single led voltage monitor from Gammatronix that shows levels of charge. 5 modes from Red flash = <11.2v to Red/Green flash >15.2v.
- Installed smaller torpedo style LED indicators all round including a 7” LED headlight, new brackets and new chrome bucket.
- Added clip ons and ‘purpose built’ switches.
- Designed and constructed a single sided license plate holder with single LED. Attached on chain side allowing it to be pivoted up on the chain guard bolt out of the way when removing the rear wheel.
- Replaced OEM with new Rectifier/Regulator, from Ricks Hot Shot 14-004H that is compatible with Lithium batteries, re-routed wiring and ran +ve via a 30amp fuse back to battery.
- Remove OEM horn, relocated new R/R up into the horns old home and installed twin horns (410 and 510Hz) each side of ignition coil. No relay reqd as using M-unit.
- Replaced instrument with Speedhut Speedo and Tacho along with a few flat top style idiot LEDs. (Speedhut, very professional, courteous staff),
- Drew up the Speedo/Tacho support bracket and had it Water jetted out of 2mm SS. Also drew up a rear carb support bracket and had that cut out of 1.6 MS.
- Speedo is GPS, so no cable to the wheel, installed a blanking plug in hub.
- Reconfigured space under seat to allow room for Ignitor, starter solenoid, M-unit, MotoCell Lithium Iron Battery, cable radius and seat locking mech.
- Built new seat base out of marine ply, milled out a few sections to allow more room for wiring flex and so forth, added a few more ply layers then waterproofed.
- Secured a rear (2pin) locking seat mechanism with a cable pull type release, no securing bolts seen or required. As the 3rd point of seat security, the seat base has a protruding horizontal 12mm steel rod that is inserted through a grommet that is in the rear tank support bracket.
- Re jet carbs to suit alterations (advised from TTP that stage 13 should get me close).
- Installed TEC 2:1 exhaust. Removed baffle and chopped out the 20mm section and refitted a 32mm piece of pipe around 50mm long, then added a perforated cone inside.
- After many months of searching, I acquired one of those friction style dampers that has many positive comments and as a bonus it fits the larger void at the front tunnel of tank and as a double bonus also looks pretty cool.

https://www.triumphrat.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=662100&thumb=1
https://www.triumphrat.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=662102&thumb=1
https://www.triumphrat.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=662104&thumb=1
https://www.triumphrat.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=662106&thumb=1

Many thanks for the input from members through the vast number of threads throughout this forum that greatly assisted.
 

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Gosh that was a lot of work... but I must say the finished item looks very good indeed - well done!
Alan


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Discussion Starter #5

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Well it does nothing for me but hey don't get upset a few things are good but a few things I don't like, the tank looks great and nice job the seat well that not to my liking and running V stacks without air filters is asking for troubles and all those small dust particals getting into your motor does a lot of damage down the road and I have ran V stacks on my old Norton until I had a major fire and nearly lost my whole bike up in smoke from a major backfire through the V stacks and I was on it when it happened, I am not a fan of no rear guard (rocks and stuff getting flung up off your back wheel and hitting someone following you) and is illegal in most Aussie states, but then laws are made to be broken, me I don't like paying out my money for no reason at all and getting pulled over, but this is my opinion.
I have built a few British café style bikes over the years and we all have our own ideas and styles, you done a great job on the way you see your bike and all good for that and that number plate bracket looks good but to me just to much open space between it and the seat, so please don't take me the wrong way you done a good jobs just not how I like my bikes to look.
But that's what building bikes are all about to our own taste or how we see it.

Ashley
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It's unfortunate that you didn't take any "build" pictures. I think they would have given us more appreciation for all the work that you did. The end result looks fabulous.
 

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I love the velocity stacks, they look (and I bet sound awesome)..

my old chap made a living out of building Brit specials for years and nearly always had a bell-mouth intake on his customers Amal’s



.. I wonder about the wear to the bores, crowns and cyl heads with the ingress of dust etc?
On the other hand in my head I’m already bolting them on... where did you get them and what are your jetting settings?



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Discussion Starter #13
On the other hand in my head I’m already bolting them on... where did you get them and what are your jetting settings?
I also have a set of DNA pods I can swap over.
The velocity stacks have two layers of mesh, the outer which you see it quite large and deliberate for aesthetics and an inner which is much much finer. Made by a local metal spinner.
Running very well with 42 Pilot, 1 shim and 125 main.
 

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I also have a set of DNA pods I can swap over.
The velocity stacks have two layers of mesh, the outer which you see it quite large and deliberate for aesthetics and an inner which is much much finer. Made by a local metal spinner.
Running very well with 42 Pilot, 1 shim and 125 main.
Sounds very lean mate? I got advised to put hoofing great 142s into my carbs but have since worked back to 135 and I think I’ll end up at 132.. (it has cost a fortune )..

Regardless your carbs look very business like.

I’ve been looking at making some bell mouths on my little lathe but after comparing TTPs performance figures I’ve decided to stick with the improved torque of my current set up..


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Discussion Starter #17
I messaged TTP with my set up and they advised a stage 13 jet kit and I have a set of what looks like 158s left over. I’ll double check :unsure: with TTP and get back to you.
 
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