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Discussion Starter #1
So, reading some interesting posts here, I ordered the correct cable, got the TuneECU software. First findings:

- The diagnostics page does not seem to fully load, although I can check TPS which only swings round to 70% when on full throttle
- The Test page does not let me do anything
- Only error I get: P0463 - Fuel level sensor circuit high input - any ideas?!

I'm probably going to give it an updated MAP - I have read and saved the current map.

Still runs very poorly.
 

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Why do you say the diagnostics page doesn’t fully load?
Are you sure you are clicking in the right place to start the test? Try clicking on the indicator of the fan test (that’s the easiest to tell if working)
Fuel level is definitely the only error in the log?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
After watching a few YouTube clips I can see its working fine, the green LED is flickering, which I thought to mean its still loading, but seems this is normal.

Yep, the fuel sender error looks to be the only one listed. I had the tank out, replaced the fuel filter, filled it right up with fresh Shell 99 and when I was out on it, the fuel light came on after a few miles.

As previously stated, the bike has covered 5300 miles and been sat a while with only mileage to MoT station and back. Hence the tank strip down and fuel filter replacement. Maybe the float in the sender is stuck or something..!
 

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... I can check TPS which only swings round to 70% when on full throttle ...
That is 'normal' - that is not throttle % open, it is % of applied voltage

Only error I get: P0463 - Fuel level sensor circuit high input - any ideas? ... .
... filled it right up with fresh Shell 99 and when I was out on it, the fuel light came on after a few miles.... Maybe the float in the sender is stuck or something..!
That is a typical problem with this ECU/Fuel sensor combo - there is nothing wrong with the sensor or the float - you will almost certainly find that after the level goes down a bit, the light will go off. It is because at the high level, the sender is at its lowest resistance reading and because of a ground-loop the way it has been wired it creates a false error.
The solutions are
a) Reconfigure the wiring of the sensor to be the same as the Sprint (search for thread on this by me)
or
b) Put a ziptie around the sender board to stop the float rising all the way to the top when it's full (it doesn't care about the actual level other than when it's low i.e. the sender, although it will read resistance according to its position, is only interpreted by the ECU as LOW or NOT-LOW

The latter is what most employ (means draining tank & removing sender)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, great, I'll probably have a go at that - I had the tank off last week empty..!

Been reading a bit on the reset - mines has an O2 sensor so I dont see the adaptation button on the Tune ECU software. Re-applied the correct map anyway. Do I need to do the 20 minute tickover, no touch throttle / wait for fan to kick in thing - or is mines like this:

The fuel system fitted to the above models is adaptive. This means that the engine management system will
self-adjust air fuel ratio (i.e. the mixture setting) to its optimum level in order to ensure differing running conditions do not result in poor running.

During an adaption, the engine management system examines the air--fuel ratio as measured by the oxygen sensor in the exhaust system and, if necessary, makes an adjustment. In some cases, a single adaption may
be sufficient but in others, more adaptions will be necessary.

An adaption take place when all the following conditions are met:

Gearbox in neutral, clutch engaged.
Coolant temperature 80 -- 100 °C
Airbox temperature 21°C minimum
Engine idling for 10 -- 30 seconds
Once adaption has taken place, the settings are retained ensuring that adaption is not necessary every time
the engine is started.

Particularly for new bikes, where the engine has not been run-in, it may be necessary for dealers to ensure adaption has taken place before handing the motorcycle over to the customer. This can, of course, apply at
any other times as well.

To force adaption to take place, start the engine and warm it up until the above conditions aremet, adaption
takes place automatically. Blip the throttle every 30 seconds to start another adaption cycle. When coolant or
airbox temperatures are above or below adaption thresholds, allow the engine to cool or warm-up before
continuing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bit of an update... Downloaded new map, all worked ok (saved existing one). Fuses back in - engine started very rough, not been run for a week or so, but right away the engine management light goes out, followed by the Fuel warning light. Also no new error codes - could it really be that simple?

Let the bike idle for way more than 20 mins, got a huge fan on the front of the bike which helped somewhat. Bike cooling fan came on and off a few times. The engine seemed to sound smoother, but I've yet to take for a test run.

The TPS light on the Tune ECU never went to green though, but I have heard this can be ok. I performed a TPS Rest anyway via the test page. Clicked ok, and let the bike run for another 20 mins. Garage very hot by now even with all doors open!! Decided to call it a day and leave it. Left the big fan on, interestingly the bike rad fan carried on when I turn the ignition off. The last temp I saw on the bike and ECU software was 107 deg.

Next thing will be a test ride to see if its smoothed things out any.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ordered new sender gasket from local dealer. Will be on me to do list. Will road test and see if main issue is cured.

Thanks all for comments and guidance, much appreciated.
 

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Hope it is sorted. I’ve just seen your other thread and think if it’s not running well and there’s no errors then just try injector cleaner or running alkylate fuel through it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, I put some Redex in the tank, I think most modern fuels have detergents build in. I have to take the tank off (again) to sort the fuel sender, so will remove airbox and have a look at the injectors. The plugs were replaced already.

Just want to get out and ride it..!
 

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I recently got a 2003 Daytona 955i, also not much used low mileage . It felt a bit flat low down so I thought I'd have a go at tuneecu too. I got aTOR pipe so tried the TOR no SAI tune. The bike was harder to start - took three goes every time, each of the first two had very low idle speed and stalled. On the third try, the idle was much higher, about 1500rpm then ok. Low speed running felt much better. It was like this for a week. But then one day the bike stalled on the side stand and simply wouldn't restart. Fortunately I was at home so pushed back into the garage and reflashed the standard map. Great starting immediately restored. Weirdly, low speed running not so flat either. More experiments to follow. Could just be it needed miles to clear out the injection. I have it a dose piece Wynne's injector cleaner too.

Enjoy your bike. I'm loving mine
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I’ve decided to pull the tank off again, and sort out the fuel sender. I’ve got it out and seeing about the cable tie, ie where to put it!!

The 3 small air hoses were all split so they will be replaced too. I’ve removed the fuel rail and will check out the injectors, give them a good clean with Wynn’s carb cleaner. New O-rings also ordered!!

Spark plugs were replaced before I got the bike but checked them anyway seeing as it was stripped down that far.

Hoping to get some miles in September!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That is 'normal' - that is not throttle % open, it is % of applied voltage





That is a typical problem with this ECU/Fuel sensor combo - there is nothing wrong with the sensor or the float - you will almost certainly find that after the level goes down a bit, the light will go off. It is because at the high level, the sender is at its lowest resistance reading and because of a ground-loop the way it has been wired it creates a false error.
The solutions are
a) Reconfigure the wiring of the sensor to be the same as the Sprint (search for thread on this by me)
or
b) Put a ziptie around the sender board to stop the float rising all the way to the top when it's full (it doesn't care about the actual level other than when it's low i.e. the sender, although it will read resistance according to its position, is only interpreted by the ECU as LOW or NOT-LOW

The latter is what most employ (means draining tank & removing sender)
Tried to get a cable tie in there and slide it down, seems to throw the slider out and not allow the float to move at all. Will re-wire earth direct to battery. The Haynes book advises to do this if any fuel sensor errors are seen.
 

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I saw the Haynes suggests doing something with the fuel sender earth, says it was a Triumph service fix or something. I wasn't sure what it meant but guessed with the other earthing problems I'd heard about it was too a better earthing point.

D'Ecosse I tried to find your thread about sprint wiring but have got my man searching glasses on i.e. wholely ineffective. Could you put a direct like from this thread? I was wondering if it would be possible to for a fuel guage from a Sprint, with the ECU and sender being the same MC1000.

Cheers
 

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Thanks maccers. It looks like the suggestion is to wire the sender ground direct to the battery: "both systems the 1/G4, 2/G4, 2/G3 node goes directly to Battery Negative" but the Daytona loom normally earths the fuel sender to the engine, whereas the sprint also earths it to battery negative.

I'm not used to seeing ground wires individually numbered. This is a super high tech bike for me - my previous newest is a 1991 Triumph Trophy. Also a great bike.

Still wondering if a sprint fuel guage might be driven by the sender/MC1000 on the Daytona...
 

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It's not so much you want it be connected to ground, you want it to be connected close to the 1/G4, 2/G4 2/G3 node at the ECU end - I know you're thinking well it's still ground, and it's just a piece of wire but where ground loops are concerned very small currents make a difference. I would want to tie it as close as possible to the ECU
 
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