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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all! When I open the throttle on my bike it hesitates for 6-8 seconds before it slingshoots me. After reading dozens and dozens of forum threads, it has been suggested that maybe I have a vacuum leak and to check all the hoses. In doing so, I found that several of my hoses did have holes and the plastic boots at the end of each hose were split. I ordered a replacement IAC stepper motor with all the hoses and made sure that there are zero leaks in them. The bike now only hesitates for 1-2 seconds (Huge improvement!). I replaced the stepper motor and made sure that it too is not leaking but problem still persists.

Here's what I have and what I've done this week

2002 TT600 with no after market parts except the windshield (+5hp :grin2: )
OEM CF race can with 10165 map
All new sparkplugs (NGK CR9EK)
Replaced Stepper motor, hoses and made sure they seal 100%
I have TuneECU but all the readings there are normal

Any suggestions as to where else I shoud check for a possible leak? Thanks in advance.
 

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When was the last time you synched the throttle bodies? That can cause hesitation. Also, make sure you are not running too lean off idle - increase the fuel idle trim or alter the map. Those should cause small jerkiness, not long lags. The other places for leaks are checking to be sure the airbox is sealed to the throttle bodies and that the boots between the airbox and throttle bodies are in good condition. The airbox itself may have unsealed holes. Holes upstream of the air filter don't matter, but if you find holes between the air filter and throttle bodies, those should be sealed. That's a start, off the top of my head.
 

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Shame you went ahead and bought a new IACV stepper, they rarely give trouble. The new hoses will make a world of difference though. As Will suggested it's worth syncing the throttle bodies. Since you changed the stepper motor you should adjust the idle air control valve and run TPS reset when you next connect TuneECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
When was the last time you synched the throttle bodies? That can cause hesitation. Also, make sure you are not running too lean off idle - increase the fuel idle trim or alter the map. Those should cause small jerkiness, not long lags. The other places for leaks are checking to be sure the airbox is sealed to the throttle bodies and that the boots between the airbox and throttle bodies are in good condition. The airbox itself may have unsealed holes. Holes upstream of the air filter don't matter, but if you find holes between the air filter and throttle bodies, those should be sealed. That's a start, off the top of my head.
Will your time and knowledge is much appreciated, thank you. Last night I tried some of your previous suggestions regarding the airbox sealing properly and closing any unused holes. Additionally the hose all the way on the far right (oil?) was not only unplugged but was also leaking. I fixed that too. Test ran the bike and still no change. I will have to try increasing the fuel idle trim and/or even alter the map. Regarding the synching of the throttle bodies I'm not sure. I took my bike to the local Triumph dealership in Philly and asked them to bring my bike up-to-date with all required maintenance. At the time the bike had 35k miles and I paid $1650 for the work done. Unfortunately, this dealership has since closed and I'm not sure if i'm able to obtain that information. Can I get it from any other Triumph dealership?

Shame you went ahead and bought a new IACV stepper, they rarely give trouble. The new hoses will make a world of difference though. As Will suggested it's worth syncing the throttle bodies. Since you changed the stepper motor you should adjust the idle air control valve and run TPS reset when you next connect TuneECU.
Thaks for your input Terry. When I bought the additional IACV stepper, I did so because it came with all the hoses, boots and white plastic elbows, all intact. It was much easier to simply replace the entire thing that go hose by hose. However, I trying to fix my current problem, the stepper that is on it now is actually the original. Problem still persists. I did reset the TPS, played around with the Idle full trim and made some adjustments to the IACV but no change.
 

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When the TPS was failing on my Daytona, it would hesitate and have an unpredictable throttle response. I'm not sure how to check to see if that's failing, but resetting a failing TPS won't solve the problem if that is the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
****Update*****

I called both local Triumph dealerships. Only one answered but he was the manager for the service department and he had some great info. First I learned that Triumph does not collect the information/work done on your bike. So i'll never know if the throttle bodies were done. However he explained that the throttle bodies only need to be done if they are waaaay off. In my case, when I remove the airbox, all the butterfly flaps are perferctly closed. He said my throttle bodies should be fine. He did suggest yet another Triumph dealership about 2hrs away (in Trenton NJ). And after explaining my problem he suggest to check both the Fuel injection (possibly slightly clogged) and/or the fuel pump.

I haven't checked the forums yet but is there a way to check both of these to make sure they are working properly?

Thanks again all!
 

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If the injectors are clogged, you can clean them so far as I know. Or replace the injectors themselves. It's not something I ever had to do, so I can't tell you much about it. Injector cleaner may also work to dissolve a bit of varnish. If the bike sat for a long time, it's a possibility that the injectors got varnished up a bit. Techron or Seafoam may do the trick. It's worth a try. It may also be a fuel filter problem, as long as we are going that route. I don't remember if you said you checked that or not. There's a BMW part listed in the stickied parts swap thread that's the same as the Triumph part, but easier to get ahold of and cheaper. I believe there is a pressure spec for the pump - if it is providing a supply pressure of a certain amount, then you are good. I cannot say what that is because I don't remember. I also never had a problem with it, so I never had to worry about it. I would start with the injector cleaner and then try a fuel filter. Those are cheap and quick. Then go on to more invasive surgery.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I would start with the injector cleaner and then try a fuel filter. Those are cheap and quick. Then go on to more invasive surgery.
Question: Would the results of TuneECU (see attached) be a good referrence as to the condition of my injectors? Do the readings look normal? Anything out of wack?
I have a spare fuel pump. I can swap them out to see if there's a difference. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As soon as I got home tonight I went to work on the bike. I swaped out the fuel filter from one fuel assembly to another. I blew air through each and immediately noticed a difference between the old and new. The old one was far more restrictive than the new one. Maybe because one is wet and the other dry? Not sure. Either way, my hopes were high as I installed the new fuel pump. Once installed, I primed it several times and it fired up on the first go. Let her warm up to 150 degrees and took her for a quick lap around the block. Problem still persists.

I just blows my mind how I've addressed so many issues in the last week and how all the changes have only made a slight impact. How did she ever run??

FYI Notes:
The bike has not been sitting. Only the 3 months of winter every year. I've been running her since April this year
Fresh 93 octane gas



Replaced all four IACV hoses and the black boots on each end
The white elbow pieces were all perfectly fine
Addressed all unused holes in the airbox (two of them)
Swapped out the stepper motor and checked it for leaks
The fuel hole on the far right of the airbox was not only leaking but also unplugged (fixed both of them)
The aibox did not sit properly over the throttle bodies due to a crooked boot (now sits flush)
Replaced all brand new OEM spark plugs
Replaced the fuel filter (less restrictive)

Pending
Clean fuel injectors (does TuneECU say they're ok?)
Replace throttle position sensor (TPS)
Alter/Install new map
Change settings for Idle fuel trim

If all else fails:
Set the bike on fire lol jk
 

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I always used TuneBoy since TuneECU wasn't around back when I had TT600s. I can't say for sure if those are normal values, but they look like they could well be. I'm baffled. It's probably something obvious none of us has thought of yet. Is the throttle cable adjusted right? That's dumb, but we are running out of options. It sounds almost like there's a delay in the signals somehow.
 

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Hello all! When I open the throttle on my bike it hesitates for 6-8 seconds before it slingshoots me.
That's a heck of a hesitation, much more than the usual off idle stumble associated with many fuel injected bikes. I was wondering if perhaps the TPS was sticking but I see you already changed that. There is one thing it might be worth trying. There is an o-ring in the TPS that can deteriorate and cause some weird running issues. I've never done it myself but plenty of people have simply removed it altogether and found the bike runs better afterwards. Anyone able to offer more information on doing this?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Actually I haven't yet swapped out the TPS. However I have reset it via TuneECU. Also while in TuneEcu and the bike running, when I open the throttle the TPS gauge does move. Not really sure what that means but It seems that it's working albeit with a delay
 

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The fact that it moves doesn't mean it's moving correctly. If you have a replacement, it's worth trying. I thought you already replaced it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
TPS was not replaced. Part has been ordered and it's on its way. Yesterday I did manage to change the map from 10165 to 10166. Bike still runs rough.

After swapping maps, i'm no longer able to connect to TuneECU. Not sure why :(
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've been enjoying my bike so much that I've forgotten to come back and update this thread. My bike is fixed and good as new! My bike had a slew of issues which initially were small enough for my bike to ignore. However as time went on, each issue got worse and eventually led to me having to request help here on the forums. The last remaining issue that finally fixed my bike was that the corrugated hose (same hose as those attached to the IAC) that runs to the rear of the bike and is attached to the ECU (aka ECM) was full of oil. One of the many functions of the ECU is to also check the air that enters the airbox. Since mine was full of oil, it was not getting a proper reading. All I did was blow out on that hose all the oil came right out.

The ECU however requires a good 20-30mins to register the change before you can tell the difference on the bike. My issue was that I rode my bike to and from work which is only a 8-10min. It just wasn't enough time for the ECU to register the change. Two days later I took it for a one hour ride and by the time I got home, she was back to her old self again. She puuurs and is full of power.

This is another issue that should be added to the list of things to check for when trying to fix issues with the IAC. Thanks to all for your help!
 

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I'm happy to hear it's on its way back to full health. It's too good a bike to put it out to pasture. I hope you solve all of it's neglect related issues and get to enjoy it the way it was intended to be enjoyed.
 

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From what I've read, if the bike falls over on its RHS and the engine keeps running, oil can get sucked up from the crankcase breather and into the airbox, and then through any and all of the vacuum tubes
 

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rhs? A pretty unusual occurrence in any case, but I will check mine. My hose was simply disconnected (rubber couplings just falling apart) and I reconnected and ran fin for first 30 miles then started acting up again. Did check several times that was still connected .. also hanging at 5k rpm and idle seems to low, but those can have other causes. Thx!
 
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